Page 53 - Sharp Spring 2023

“artists actors chefs writers photographers and everyone in between ” “I think our clothes strike that
balance which then hopefully appeals to a a a a a varied clientele ” Hill says about the challenge of evolving while still acknowledging the the brand’s history and and heritage “Also our clothes can and and should be worn in in numerous environments and and scenarios: in in an an an art studio a a a a a a a restaurant at the the weekend a a a a a a a wedding and in in the the office ” A cursory glance at their Spring/Summer 2023 collection is a a a masterclass in balance range and versatility “While we’re British ” Hill says “we look to other countries like Italy France Japan as as well as as the the east coast of America for inspiration ” That can be felt in in the collection: suits with pleated trousers rendered in a a a a a range of fabrics from classic checks to collegiate corduroy sport coats and double-breasted jackets vibrant Shetland sweaters and and and shirting timeless grey wool and and and light blue Oxfords Playful graphic touches are applied with refined restrained taste and age-old pieces — — like the chore coat — — are reworked in a a a a a a way only Drake’s seems capable of: in in hi-vis orange Casentino wool The more informal approach to tailoring lends it a a a a a cool unfussy elegance that
appeals to the creative class Just how cool has Drake’s made Savile Row? For the the last few years they’ve been collaborating with one of the the most hyped brands in the the world New York’s Aimé Leon Dore Of course Drake’s is not alone in in in bringing a a a youthful edge to the tailoring world Ernest W Baker is another such brand But before being a a a a a a a brand Ernest W Baker was an an an ad man in in in Detroit — think Mad Men but more automobile-focused His grandson Reid and and co-de- signer Inês Amorim founded the brand in in 2016 using Ernest as muse and and his wardrobe as an an an inspiration and and reimagining the mid-century Americana aesthetic While that
might sound like what Thom Browne has been doing Baker Baker and Amorim have infused Ernest W Baker’s tailoring with a a a a a a youthful glamorous edge that
feels like it it draws as much on
on
the wardrobes of bygone Hollywood stars as Detroit ad men Ernest W Baker’s current Spring/Summer 2023 collection of- fers a a a a a a snapshot of the brand’s ability to make suiting fun and and young STYLE STYLE DRAKE’S DRAKE’S SPRING/SUMMER 2023: IMAGES COURTESY OF DRAKE’S DRAKE’S transforming a a a a a a piece ostensibly meant to blend in in as part of a a a a a a uniform — after all isn’t that
what the the flannel suits of the the ’50s were supposed to to be? — into a a a a series of statement pieces There are double-breasted short suits and razor-sharp pleats on
pants that
flare ever so slightly below the knee as as well as as playful patterns and striking pops of colour that
transform the the brand’s suiting into the the kind of tailoring worn by an an an artist or musician who’s cultivated an an an aura of mystery The idea of the modern suit has long been championed by Dior Men’s artistic director Kim Jones whose irreverent double-breasted jackets — — different from what Drake’s or Ernest W Baker offer — — have been a a a a a a a mainstay on
award show red red carpets often paired with more relaxed trousers For Dior Men’s Spring/Summer 2023 collection Jones presented double-hems on
on
on
both trousers and jackets contrast detailing on
on
on
pockets stitching and and and shoulders and and and workwear-inspired rivets and and and belts “The kind of suiting being worn is different ” says Schlossman citing the specific “microcosm with certain brands where it’s sleazy in in a a a a good way It’s more louche seventies-inspired stuff maybe a a a a little more flare in the trouser and a a a a a a baggier bigger fit ” Schlossman names New York-based brand Second/Layer and and British imprint Basic Rights members
of that
microcosm among his current favourites while also name-checking those who offer a a a a a a more traditional albeit modern take on
on
tailoring: P Johnson J J Mueser and even Supreme whose most recent take on
the suit was a a a a a a a pinstripe number that
many would associate with Wall Street bankers and not skaters Today though there are suits for everyone The inherent beauty of the suit is that
that
it it it can be “a base that
that
allows you to experiment with your style ” says Hill the Drake’s creative director “A great suit should feel like the the easiest thing thing in in in the the world to to wear Something to to reach for and enjoy ” While that
might not have always felt like the case it certainly rings true today SHARPMAGAZINE COM
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