Page 92 - S/ Winter 2023

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T here’s a staccato rhythm that builds. It’s accompanied by fluid choreography punctuated by sharp, deliberate movements. Flamenco
is known for its signature costumes, passionate storytelling, and music that races and lingers in equal measure. This isn’t the kind of beat you can easily anticipate or clap along to, but it drives a spellbinding performance, just the same.
At Christian Dior’s 2023 Resort show, the traditional dance and
the city where it originated were both centre stage, as Maria Grazia Chiuri’s collection celebrated all things Seville. After experiencing the city’s combination of artistry and history with a cocktail reception at the Alcázar of Seville (a 10th-century, Mudéjar-style palace), attendees arrived in horse-drawn carriages at Plaza de España for the main event. The brand’s creative director of women’s haute couture, ready-to-wear and accessories collections says the location “epitomizes the fusion of aesthetics characteristic of Seville...I wanted the audience to feel as if they were in the heart of the world’s flow, surrounded by art and architecture.”
In her first post-pandemic runway show, Chiuri embraced a return to festivity and spectacle. But every element—from the grand scale to the
fine details—was intentionally rooted in local Spanish tradition. As the predominantly red and black collection was unveiled, nearly 50 Andalusian dancers performed choreography by Franco–Spanish performer Blanca Li. Meanwhile, composer Alberto Iglesias, who is known for his collaborations with Oscar-winning director Pedro Almodóvar, wrote sweeping original music to set the tone.
The 110 looks were equally in step with the setting and its ties to flamenco. From the moment guests— including model Elle Macpherson, Italian influencer Chiara Ferragni, and Bridgerton actress Charithra Chandran among them—received their invites, the Italian-born designer’s inspiration was evident. The invitations featured an image of flamenco dancer Carmen Amaya, who became known as La Capitana. In the ’50s, she was the first performer to wear a traditionally male costume. “Through the gestures of dance, she unites strength and fragility. Expressing the soul of Spain, she interpreted a form of self-aware femininity,” says Chiuri of her muse.
There were tiered, flamenco-inspired skirts, as well as off-the-shoulder dresses. The brand’s iconic bar jacket, Lady Dior handbag, and saddle bags were also reimagined for the collection. As equestrian looks paraded through Plaza de España, each began to include one more voluminous element than its predecessor. High-waisted pants were paired with riding boots and a classically tailored jacket. Then, similar pants appeared again, only with a ruffled blouse, an embroidered cape, or worn with a belted
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Dior dress, bracelet, and rings, available at Dior boutiques nationwide. Dior dress, available at Dior boutiques nationwide. Phototography by Jara Garcia Azor.