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overskirt. Chiuri proved, yet again, that pragmatic clothing doesn’t have to lack elegance, sophistication, or a little romance.
Since she was appointed Dior’s first-ever female creative director in 2016, Chiuri has ushered the brand into its feminist era. Her philosophy was made immediately clear when her Spring 2017 debut included the “We Should All Be Feminists” t-shirt, which quoted the 2014 essay by Nigerian writer Chimamanda Ngozi Adichie. Rihanna, Karlie Kloss, Natalie Portman, and more were quickly spotted wearing the statement piece. It was clear from the outset that she designed clothing meant for women to wear in their multi-faceted, everyday lives (as opposed to those strictly intended for the stage or red carpet). In Seville, she explored this theme through her collection’s contrasts between masculine and feminine silhouettes. She also examined the juxtaposition between Dior’s global customer base with a smaller, localized view of fashion.
“Embroidery holds an important place in all my collections. I am fascinated by the different techniques that span and connect distant territories, creating a universal language: from Italy to India, from Paris
to Seville,” says the designer. Ahead of the show, she travelled throughout Southern Spain and recruited local artisans to contribute to the collection. One such stop was to the Jesús Rosado atelier, where they specialize in gold and silver embroidery. Their work is typically added to ceremonial robes worn in religious ceremonies or used to dress Madonnas in processions. “During my visit, I was impressed by the organization of the
work, which is highly similar to that of a couture atelier,” she says. They were tasked with adding metallic, three-dimensional embellishment to the Lady Dior bag, among other pieces.
They weren’t the only Spanish artisans working behind the scenes.
The Abanicos Carbonell atelier—known for making accessories for more than 200 years—created the lace fans seen on the runway. The Fernández y Roche atelier also created hats from felt and straw, dressed up with signature Dior details. Goldsmiths at the Orfebrería Ramos, who are known for producing decorative objects typically seen in churches, also worked with Chiuri and her team to design jewellery. “In Spain, leather work reaches the highest levels of perfection,” she says, “as demonstrated in the making of the gloves that play an important role in this collection.” In a world where fashion can tend to feel more and more homogenous,
it was admirable to see Chiuri not only take inspiration from a specific place, but make the effort to create pieces that truly could only come
from Seville. Though there currently isn’t a Dior boutique in the city,
her fondness for the place, its people, and their craftsmanship were felt throughout the show.
In her time at Dior, it’s been thrilling to see the direction she’s taken the historic label. Much like the guitar music playing during a flamenco performance, there’s no telling where Chiuri’s inspiration will lead
her next. Dior Resort 2023, price upon request, available in Dior boutiques nationwide.
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Dior dresses, available at Dior boutiques nationwide. Phototography by Alessandro Garofalo.