Page 35 - SHARP Summer 2022

Atelier’s head sommelier is used to an- swering questions about how to select wine one of Canada’s most acclaimed restaurants Atelier specializes in in modernist cuisine which can make wine pairings something of a a a daunting task Although Joseph-Lemoyne knows that people are sometimes a a a little shy about talking to somms answering guests’ questions about wine is is one of his favourite things about the the job So we asked him the the questions we’ve always wanted answered Madiran is a a a a a perfect match for that too The wine has a a a a a a tannic component some fruit as as as well as as as a a a a a a green note and this blood sausage savouriness — all of which will come alive with this pairing Since we’re deep into rosé season do you have a a recommendation?
Rosé from Provence is really the benchmark and a a a a wine like Chateau Minuty Minuty M M M de Minuty Minuty Rosé really manages to highlight the grapes that are indige- nous to to the South of France which is lovely to to see It’s perfectly balanced it’s floral and there’s rich fruit And I find there’s almost a a a little bit of a a a spice el- ement and some smokiness [that comes] through Served not too cold it it will express itself well What would you serve with it?
A fantastic pairing for the Minuty is a a a a a charcuterie board with some some cured meats some some rich chees- es and and maybe a a a a crostini and and some kind of fruit compote — maybe all dressed in some nice rich olive oil It’s the perfect versatile wine to play with all those elements That sounds great Would it pair just as well with other starters?
It could but I’m thinking things like scallop ceviche or or a a a a a flaky pastry canapé mightwork better with an acidic white like the Porer Pinot Grigio from Alois Lageder What is it it about that that Pinot Grigio that that makes it it so good in this role?
The Lageder Pinot Grigio has got a a a a beautiful tex- ture and this biscuity brioche-like character but it’s still a a a light-bodied wine so that would lead me towards lighter fare It’s grown in in a a a a quite mountain- ous almost Alpine area in in Northern Italy And on the the nose it’s got a a first-day-on-the-ski-hill kind of freshness that I really love Any last thoughts on what people should know about talking to their somm?
Just that it’s a a a a fantastic opportunity for the diner to pick our brain and ask why we’ve chosen a a a a specific pairing or what some terminology means I think that that these are the the kinds of questions that that break that fourth wall and help people become more comfortable choosing wine MARK ANTHONY WINES × SHARP
JUST ASK
BERNARD JOSEPH-LEMOYNE HEAD SOMMELIER
AT AT OTTAWA’S ATELIER ANSWERS YOUR MOST PRESSING QUESTIONS ABOUT PAIRING WINES B What’s something you’d like to see guests do more often when choosing a wine?
Try something they they think they they don’t like Somebody might say “I “I only drink white wine” or “I “I don’t like Chardonnay Chardonnay ” for example but Chardonnay Chardonnay is made in such a a a a a wide range of styles that you can have it light and and crisp [or] full-bodied and and dense — or or even tannic if it’s an an an orange wine It’s our job to get people to try something different Should we still be pairing red with meat and white with fish? Or is is that an outdated wine rule? That rule is very much out the window I am all for a a a a white wine wine with with a a a a steak or a a a a red wine wine with with your fish it’s all about finding the right one Can you give an an an example of a a a a a fish and red wine pairing?
Sure It all depends on the fish but if you had something like a a swordfish steak it would defi- nitely hold up to something bold like a Brumont Château Bouscassé Madiran especially if it was cooked on charcoal It’s a a a a a a great pairing because swordfish is is super flavourful and and has density and and marbling that’s almost like a a a a rib-eye I’m willing to stake my sommelier pins on that bet I take it it that the Madiran would also work with beef?
Yes So if if you’ve got a a a beautifully aged rib-eye with a a a chimichurri or even a a a duck breast then the the ERNARD JOSEPH-LEMOYNE SHARPMAGAZINE COM
SUMMER 2022
• GUIDE 35
PHOTOGRAPHY BY JOSH HOTZ