Page 100 - S/ Winter 2024

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T hese days, icons are everywhere. The latest viral star, meme, and sometimes even the most mundane behaviour are all iconic. But
Frida Kahlo—the artist who openly honoured Mexican and Indigenous culture, boldly explored sexuality, and honestly depicted the female experience and form—is among the small few who truly deserve the title. She inspired the masses, including Maria Grazia Chiuri, Dior’s creative director. And in its Cruise 2024 collection, the depths of Kahlo’s influence were on full display.
The show took place in Mexico City at the Antiguo Colegio de San Ildefonso, the institution where Kahlo studied. It’s also where she first met husband and mentor Diego Rivera, who was instrumental to her work throughout her career. In the centre of this symbolic location, Elina Chauvet, a Mexican feminist artist, performed as the models took to the runway.
Chiuri’s reverence for Kahlo is evident in the pieces themselves—each of which were expertly crafted to blend the artist’s spirit, signature motifs, and androgynous aesthetic. “From the age of nineteen, Frida wore a men’s
three-piece suit, transgressing her femininity to claim an independence [that was] above all intellectual,” says Chiuri.
Suiting then, is featured prominently in the collection. Structured blazers and blouses pair with billowing skirts and traditional tunics that reflect Indigenous customs, creating looks that are equal parts masculine and feminine.
Chiuri plays with a variety of materials: cotton, hemp, silk lace, jersey, and velvet, elevating each with intricate stitching, layering, and patterns.
In this collection, the brand’s ever-classic Bar jacket, for example, is re- skinned in a rich black velvet and adorned in embroideries, while a pink dress reminiscent of one worn by Frida Kahlo in one of her self-portraits is enhanced by Chirui’s choice of elevated fabrics.
Butterflies—a constant motif in Kahlo’s work—are expertly interwoven through a multitude of pieces in different colours, sizes, and materials. Butterflies also represent the idea of metamorphosis and come to life
in various silhouettes. Elsewhere, Mexican flora and fauna—including parrots, monkeys, and strelitzias, also make an appearance.
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Colegio De San Ildefonso, Elina Chauvet.