Page 627 - 2018 National Home Improvement
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2018 National Home Improvement Estimator, All Rights Reserved                                   Page 500



            Cripple Wall Bracing
            Any framed wall above the foundation and below the first framed floor is a candidate for extra bracing.
            These cripple walls are highly susceptible to damage during an earthquake. Cripple walls in houses built
            prior to about 1960 seldom have adequate bracing. The sheathing won't be structural grade panels and
            may not be attached securely at both the bottom plate and the first floor. It's easy to upgrade cripple
            walls for earthquake resistance.


            Before starting the upgrade, check existing cripple wall framing for signs of decay. Replace any framing
            lumber that appears to be decayed. Use treated lumber. Check to be sure there are enough foundation
            anchors. Then apply structural panel sheathing to either the exterior or interior face of the cripple wall.
            Sheathing and connections should meet IRC requirements for new construction. Figure 18-3 shows
            cripple wall bracing details. The Association of Bay Area Governments (San Francisco) offers a detailed
            plan sheet for bracing of cripple walls at www.abag.ca.gov

            Apply 3/8" plywood or OSB panels to the interior face of cripple walls if there's enough room to work in
            the crawlspace. If not, install panels on the exterior with nails spaced no more than 4 inches.
            Reinforcing a poorly-braced cripple wall is probably the single most cost-effective improvement you can
            make to protect a pre-1960 structure from earthquake damage.

            Weak- and Soft-Story Bracing
            Ground floors of older multi-story buildings seldom have adequate bracing. To reduce the risk of
            earthquake damage, consider adding hold-down anchors at corners any time you remove interior finish
            materials. Attach these anchors to the end studs (or other studs that have sheathing edge nailing). Sink
            a vertical rod or bolt into the foundation below. See Figure 18-4. Removing a 16"-wide by 4'-high section
            of drywall at each corner should provide enough working room.
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