Page 633 - 2018 National Home Improvement

2018 National Home Improvement Estimator, All Rights Reserved Page 506

Checking for Earthquake Damage
Serious structural damage to a building deserves evaluation by a structural engineer. The decision to get
advice from a licensed structural engineer rests with the building owner (or the building department), not
with the contractor called on to make repairs. If you sense that a structural evaluation is required and if
none has been performed, raise that issue with the owner. For the purposes of this chapter, I'm going to
assume that engineering issues have been resolved before you step on the site.

Most earthquake damage is obvious from the exterior - walls and walks will show signs of stress or
collapse. Walk around the building and through the building interior and you'll see most of what has to
be repaired or replaced. If you don't see damage at the foundation level, crawling under the building won't
provide much additional information. If you see obvious damage to a cripple wall, investigate from the
interior. Decide if it's practical to add bracing to the wall interior.

What applies to crawlspaces also applies to attics. True, an unfinished attic is the best place to inspect
framing members without removing finish materials. But any earthquake damage to ceiling joists or
rafters is likely to be obvious from the condition of walls and ceilings below the attic. Crawling around in
the attic isn't likely to add much to your damage assessment.

Check joints where a slab meets the foundation wall. When a home is built partially on filled ground and
partially on cut ground, it's common to see gaps open between the slab and the foundation. Check the
slab perimeter for gaps anywhere the slab is exposed, such as in the garage or in closets. Roll back the
carpets at the room perimeter. Where finish floors are hard tile, stone or wood, you'll see loose flooring if
the slab has separated from the foundation stem wall.

A minor gap between a footing and a floor slab isn't a structural risk. Caulk the opening to help keep
insects and moisture out of the building interior. If a crack is wider than 1/4", clean the opening of any
foreign material and then fill the void with a masonry crack filler. If either side of the crack has been
displaced up or down, finish the job with a coat of floor leveling compound.

Before Making Repairs
Before removing any finishes, get an estimate of the year when the building was constructed. The
Environmental Protection Agency's Renovation, Repair and Painting (RRP) rule sets standards for repair
work done on homes built in 1978 or earlier. That was the last year lead-based paints were commonly
used in residences. Full information on the rule can be found on the EPA site:
www.epa.gov/lead/pubs/renovation.htm If in doubt about the year of construction, test the paint for lead
content. Many building supply stores sell inexpensive lead test kits that meet requirements of the RRP
rule.