Page 650 - 2018 National Home Improvement

2018 National Home Improvement Estimator, All Rights Reserved Page 522

Structural Drying
The quickest way to dry wall and ceiling cavities is to remove the finish material - wallboard, plaster,
paneling, sheathing, etc. - and the insulation. But that's expensive and may not be necessary,
especially on interior walls and ceilings that don't have sheathing and aren't insulated. If the finish
material is in good condition, there's a better choice. If it's an insurance job, don't do any demolition
without clearance by the adjuster.

Ceilings. Plan to replace a wallboard ceiling that's been covered by floodwater. A plaster ceiling won't
have to be replaced unless there are too many cracks or sags. If the ceiling was flooded by a roof leak
or water from an upper floor, punch or drill holes in the ceiling to drain away puddled water. If you have
access to attic crawl space over the ceiling, gather up any wet insulation. Then install air-moving
equipment in the crawl space to exhaust excess moisture. If you don't have access above the ceiling,
dry the ceiling cavity as explained next for stud walls.

Walls. Start by removing the baseboard. Drill or puncture a hole in the wallboard about 2 inches above
the floor (just above the sill plate). See Figure 19-7. The hole should be large enough to drain standing
water and accommodate the air tube you'll insert into each stud cavity. When drilling, be careful to avoid
wiring. Most wiring will be at about the same wall height as the electrical outlets.

If walls are plaster, use a drill to create these holes. A chisel would shatter the plaster. If a flooded
home or office has steel framing, the bottom sill will collect water like a trough. Drill a hole at floor level
to drain water from the bottom channel.

The size of the hole depends on the type of air manifold you plan to use. Some equipment distributes air
through 1/8" spaghetti tube. Other systems, such as in Figure 19-8, use hose up to 5/8" in diameter.
Each will be effective if used according to the manufacturer's instructions. Some air injection systems
come with an air blower. Others attach to a standard air mover, as in Figure 19-8.

The most basic dryout tool is an air mover. These units can dry any wet surface, including carpets,
floors, walls, drapes and upholstery. Most can be installed in several positions, operate at several
speeds and are designed for continuous service over long periods. See Figure 19-9. You'll need at least
one air mover for each room or flooded area. A typical job requires one air mover for each 150 square
feet of floor. A one horsepower air mover rated at 3,500 cubic feet per minute draws about 10 amps of
power when running at full speed. When run at full speed, you won't be able to connect more than one of
these units on a 15-amp circuit. Kitchens and laundry rooms usually have 20-amp circuits. A temporary
power distribution panel (spider box) can tap into the 220-volt outlet behind an electric range or clothes
dryer and deliver 110-volt GFCI-protected power to several air movers.