Page 88 - BBC History - September 2017

Out & about

Florence’s famous Cattedrale
di Santa Maria del Fiore
towers over the city. “There is
no better place to come face
MY FAVOURITE PLACE to face with passion than in
Florence,” writes Joanne Paul

Florence, Italy

by Joanne Paul

For the latest in our historical holiday series,
Joanne explores Florence, the birthplace of

the Italian Renaissance

hat I find so Gallery and the Pitti Palace for Medici and Girolamo Savonarola,
evocative some of the best art and who sought to make Florence a
about the sculpture in the world. Get ‘New Jerusalem’. San Marco also
Renaissance timed tickets to these and the houses the works of Fra
Wis its desire to Cattedrale di Santa Maria del Angelico, including his fresco
express what makes us human Fiore (commonly known as the Annunciation, and one of
– emotion, pain, frailty and love. Duomo) to avoid long queues. Europe’s first public libraries
There is no better place to come Standing under Brunelleschi’s with gorgeous illuminated
face to face with this passion dome is an awe-inspiring manuscripts and detailed print
than in Florence, the birthplace moment not to be missed. books on display. Walking
of the Renaissance. One of the splendid things through the open columned
Florence sits at the heart of about Florence is that its space of the library, it’s impos-
Tuscany, about halfway between churches are not only beautiful sible not to feel the presence of
Rome and Milan. Founded as a historic buildings, but museums the scholars who have worked
Roman military camp in the and art galleries in their own there in the past.
first century BC, the city reached right. Santa Croce, the largest Lesser-known churches also
its height in the Renaissance, Franciscan church in the world, contain some of Florence’s best
from the 14th–16th centuries. contains a crucifix by Donatello hidden treasures. The church of
The social mobility of the and funeral monuments for San Salvatore di Ognissanti
Florentine Republic meant that such notables as Galileo, Dante, houses works by Botticelli (who
families from obscure or even Machiavelli and Michelangelo. is buried at the church) and
peasant backgrounds could rise Santa Maria Novella – the city’s Ghirlandaio. One of its true their affairs, entertained guests
to the heights of power and first great basilica, with masterpieces is the 14th-century and ran the city. In the chapel
wealth (the most notable example construction beginning in the Giotto Crucifix, which was you will find frescos by Gozzoli,
being the Medici, who ruled 13th century – boasts some of rediscovered in 2010 in a back in which the Medici are humbly
Florence from the 15th–18th the most masterful frescos of the room. Restoration has since cast as the three Magi, journey-
centuries). These families Gothic and Renaissance periods, revealed its vibrant and ing to lay their wealth at the feet
needed to project their status and a pulpit and crucifix by poignant beauty. Giotto was one of the newborn Jesus.
and wealth and so patronised Brunelleschi (the latter ru- of the first to humanise Christ Once you’ve had your fill of
the artists and scholars of the moured to have been an attempt on the cross, a hallmark of the art and history for the day, there
Renaissance, turning Florence at bettering Donatello’s crucifix Renaissance. are other ways to experience the
into the magnificent treasure- in Santa Croce). It is largely thanks to the passion of Florence. Dip in for
trove of culture it is today. I especially love Medici that we have all of some opera at St Mark’s Church,
It is best to seek out these San Marco, where this art and architecture, so also home to the first sculpture
Florentine gems on foot, so find you can enter the it is worth visiting their by an American to be on public
a historic little hotel near the Renaissance home at Palazzo display in Florence – St Mark
centre and pack some comfort- cloisters, Medici Riccardi. It by Jason Arkles, which filled a
able shoes. You will want to including those was here that the niche that had been left open BRIDGEMAN
dedicate a day each to the Uffizi of Cosimo de’ Medici organised for 127 years.

The tomb of Niccolò Machiavelli,
88 in the Basilica di Santa Croce BBC History Magazine