Page 28 - Globale Traveler
P. 28

wine & spirits


        HEART’S DESIRE

        Celebrate your love with the perfect Valentine:

        Henriot Champagne.  BY EUNICE FRIED


         OF ALL THE MAJOR PRODUCERS in France’s Champagne region,
         only a few are family-owned. One of the few is Maison & Domaines
         Henriot, founded in 1808 and today, seven generations later, still
         making outstanding Champagne. As a privately owned Champagne
         house, Henriot chooses to keep its production low, to just over 1
         million bottles a year, while most larger houses in the region turn out
         many millions annually.
           Being privately owned also allows it to emphasize its own dis-
         tinct style, one aspect of which is to stress the purest expression of
         Chardonnay. And many of the Chardonnay grapes that become
         Henriot Champagne come from top-rated Grand and Premier
         Cru vineyards. As Laurent Fresnet, Henriot’s cellar master,
         says, “What makes our Champagne special is that its grapes are
         sourced from beautiful terroirs. And thanks to our independent
         status as a family-owned house, I can dedicate the time and care it
         requires to craft … the unique style of our Champagnes.”
           In Henriot’s Brut Rosé ($70) in which Fresnet uses 35
         percent reserve wine, he looks for freshness and fruitiness.
         And indeed, it is fresh and fruity as well as bright and
         balanced. A pretty pink shade, it offers a mouth-filling
         sensation and a medium-long aftertaste.
           Brut Souverain ($45), composed of 50 percent
         Chardonnay, 45 percent Pinot Noir and the rest
         Meunier, is pale yellow, quite dry, with a sturdy
         body and a fresh, lively aroma.
           Made of 100 percent Chardonnay and
         presenting an explosion of delicate bubbles,
         Blanc de Blancs ($60) is a clean, ripe, floral
         wine with a delicious finish.
           The creamy, rich, Brut Millésime 2006
         ($62.50) combines equal parts of Pinot Noir
         and Chardonnay.
            Cuve 38 ($599) is a special wine with
         only 1,000 bottles produced each year, all in
         magnums and made only of Chardonnay
         from Côte des Blanc Grand Cru vineyards.
         Beginning in 1990, the finest part of each
         Chardonnay harvest has been kept in
         a solera system. In the current bottling,
         the oldest part of the blend is from 1990,
         the youngest from 2008. Cuve 38 is truly
         spectacular.                                                                       Known for its deep chalk
           In short, every one of Henriot’s Cham-                                           soil, the Champagne region
         pagnes lives up to the house’s 210-year-old
         reputation.                                                                        boasts 75,000 acres of           PHOTOS: © CHAMPAGNE HENRIOT


                                                                                            vineyards.



        28     globaltravelerusa.com    FEBRUARY  2018
   23   24   25   26   27   28   29   30   31   32   33