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Using Your Cues by Kate Eldredge, Rally Editor
One of the main reasons behind the American Kennel Club adding rally to its repertoire was for people to use it as a stepping stone for formal obedience. When asked what rally is and why they like it, one of the first things people usually respond with is, “You can talk to your dog.” The AKC has made the rules on cues and commands much looser for rally than for formal obedience, thus allowing the handler to give more guidance and support to his or her dog, even while competing.
Even so, there are still some limits and guidelines on what cues you as a handler can use and how, and these limits get stricter as you and your dog move up through the three levels. Take advantage of the cues and com- mands you are allowed to use, but also keep in mind that you eventually might want to compete in formal obedience with your dog—and what this means about how you use your cues.
Talking is allowed at all three levels. Though it may sound too good to be true, you really can talk to your dog throughout the entire rally course. However, keep in mind that although this is a great way to start out with a beginner dog or one who has confidence issues, ultimately you will want your dog to be able to heel politely at your side without needing to be cajoled and begged at every step. For your first couple of trials, while you and your dog are still getting into a rhythm and growing accustomed to the show setting, go ahead and talk the whole way through. Tell your dog he is won- derful and brilliant every time he does something right, and give commands as needed to keep him upbeat and correct. As much as we wish it wasn’t so, as humans we do like to win, and if our dogs are doing things right we are more likely to be pleased with them, which keeps them happier.
At the next trial, try to give commands only if you need to. You have probably worked your dog on auto- matic sits in training, so why not try them out? After all, you will be wanting them when you hit Novice Obedience. Resist the urge to remind your dog to sit before you come to a sign—instead, see if he does it automatically. If so, praise him for a job well done. If
not, give him the command and then move on. If your dog tends to move quickly, he may have shot past you. Don’t be afraid to retry the sign if you are way out of position—it’s only three points. One passive correction like this could be enough to remind him about the automatic sit. If not, keep working at it. It is important to allow him the chance to do it on his own, though, as opposed to depending on your command like a crutch.
As well as trying not to ask for sits, try not to repeat commands. Your dog should do what you ask on the first command, not the third or tenth. Many dogs don’t like to be nagged anyway, and less chatter from you may make him happier about working. This is something that you will mostly have to work on in practice, but when you get to a trial don’t immediately start giving three commands at a time. Give the command once, give your dog a chance to respond accordingly, and only repeat your command if necessary. This goes for heeling as well as stationary exercises. Feel free to give the occasional reminder to polish up your performance or let your dog know he is doing a good job, but don’t overdo it. Just because you can talk doesn’t mean you have to, and eventually you will want to be able to have a clean performance without any extra cues.
The only limitation on verbal commands is that you shouldn’t be harsh or overly loud. Yelling at your dog or talking in a mean voice can result in a penalty, tradi- tionally a three-point deduction.
In Novice and Advanced Rally, you are allowed to clap and pat your leg to help guide your dog or encour- age him (or to get his attention if he’s zoning out!). Clapping is a good motivator for some dogs, or can
November/December 2009 The Australian Shepherd Journal 21