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Tracking Line Logistics by Nan Cochrane,Tracking Editor
Like every other lead, the tracking line (or lead) is a communication link between handler and dog. At 20 to 40 feet in length it is longer than the leads folks new to tracking are accustomed to, and can feel like handling the dog long distance with a cumbersome tool. Handling the tracking line properly is a bit of an art form, and it takes practice as well as an understanding of what makes tracking dogs in general—and your tracking dog in particular— tick. When line handling becomes muscle memory it nearly becomes subconscious, freeing the handler to watch and react to the dog’s work.
Choosing The Right Tracking Line for You
Tracking lines are available through good pet suppli- ers and via mail order. They are also easy and cheap to make—just fasten a snap to one end of a nylon rope and presto, you’ve got a tracking lead! The AKC Tracking Regulations specify a lead length between 20 and 40 feet for TD and TDX. The handler must remain at least 20 feet from the dog while it is tracking unless given permission by the judges to move closer. VST handlers must stay at least 10 feet behind their dogs while track- ing. For purposes of clarity in this article I will refer to a 20-foot distance because it applies to TD.
In the old days the line had to be marked at 20 feet so it was visible to the judges; however, that is no lon- ger the case. When I learned, we marked our lines with ribbon or surveyor’s tape. I still do that. Some people simply tie a knot in the lead at 20 feet. Keep in mind that judges are required to enforce the 20-foot rule, so mark your line if you want to give the judges one less thing to think about.
Most trackers I know opt for a 40-foot line. My per- sonal favorites are made from either parachute cord or nylon utility rope because they easy to grip and strip, resist water, and don’t catch the wind. Both are avail- able at farm supply, camping and hardware stores. Add a snap and the total cost comes to around $5 - $10. Parachute cord (1/8” diameter) works well for small dogs and slower, methodical dogs that do not pull very hard. It is hard on the hands if you have a hard- pulling dog. Nylon utility rope (1/4” to 3/8” diameter) is also inexpensive and easier to grip (and strip) than parachute cord. Both will be somewhat slippery until
broken in.
Rock climbing/mountaineering rope is available in
really neat colors, but is considerably more expensive. It is designed to be slippery and stay slippery, so it is not the best choice for a hard-pulling dog. Flat 1” cotton or nylon webbed lines are easy to grip, and there are track- ing handlers that swear by them. They are bulkier than round lines, and cotton absorbs water readily. They are a bit harder to handle in heavy wind.
I suggest making or buying two lines, and taking the spare along to quickly replace a broken or hopelessly tangled line. I tie a knot about a foot past my 20-foot marker so I have something to grasp after the 20-foot marker slides through my hand. I also tie a series of warning knots between 38 and 40 feet to warn me when I’m close to the end of my line. Tracking lines are very hard on unprotected hands, so invest in—and wear—a durable pair of gloves.
Store Your Tracking Line Tangle-free
Store your tracking line tangle-free between tracking outings so it’s ready to go the next time you need it. I learned to wind my line into what weavers call a but- terfly:
1. Place one end of the line in the palm of your hand and run rest between the thumb and forefinger.
2. Wrap the long end around the outside of the thumb, across the palm, and thread it between the ring finger and little finger.
3. Wrap it around the outside of the little finger and back between the thumb and forefinger in a fig- ure-8 pattern.
November/December 2009 The Australian Shepherd Journal 23