Page 72 - Duane Raleigh - Knots Ropes for Climbers
P. 72
Do much trad, ice, or wall climbing, and you will thank the cordalette every time you rig a belay. The
cordalette is a loop made from 20 feet of 7-millimeter cord tied with a Double Fisherman's. In use,
you clip the cordalette through each point of protection, gather together a loop from each point, and tie
these together with a Figure Eight on a Bight. Clip into the Figure Eight with two carabiners, gates
reversed and opposed, or locking.
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Making a cordalette.
The beauty of the cordalette lies in its ability to self-equalize the anchor. Strung properly, each anchor
bears an equal load, and should one anchor fail, the others will be spared a shock load. Besides being
near foolproof, lightweight, compact, and practical, the
cordalette spares the full end of the lead rope for leading. You can construct an adequate cordalette
from either regular 7-millimeter cord or the better, stronger, and tougher 7-millimeter Spectra.
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Both Spectra and Kevlar require feats of strength and patience to cut. Wire nippers are the most
effective; scissors and knives do as much fraying as cutting. Once you sever the cord, you must seal
