Page 83 - Duane Raleigh - Knots Ropes for Climbers

core: the center of a kernmantle rope. Also called the kern.

D

daisy chain: a loop of webbing with pockets tied or sewn throughout its length to provide numerous
anchor points.

double rope: a rope designated by the UIAA or CEN as safe for lead climbing only when used in
double strands. Both strands of a double rope need not be clipped to every

protection point. Do not confuse double ropes with twin ropes.

dynamic rope: a rope designed to stretch. All climbing ropes are dynamic to absorb much of the

impact generated in a fall.

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F

fall factor: the number used to determine the severity of a fall, determined by dividing the distance of
the fall by the amount of rope that catches that fall. The higher the number, the harder the fall. A 20-
foot fall on 10 feet of rope has a fall factor of 2 (20 feet divided by 10 feet).

falls held: the number of UIAA or CEN test falls that a rope can sustain before breaking.

Each UIAA test fall has a fall factor of 1.78.

finish: to pull a knot taut. Unfinished or loose knots are dangerous, as they can come untied and are
weaker than finished knots.

flake or flake out: to loosely stack an uncoiled rope so it can pay out without snarling.

flat webbing: webbing that is manufactured flat, as opposed to tubular. Flat webbing is common in
harnesses, but otherwise is seldom used for climbing.

H

hand: the "feel" of a rope--stiff or soft.

hawser: a large-diameter laid or twisted rope. Not applicable to climbing or rappeling.

hitch: a knot that secures a rope to an object, which can include another rope.

K

kern: see core.

kernmantle: a two-part rope construction having a braided or twisted core, the kern, and a braided