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A32    FEATURE
              Saturday 14 OctOber 2017

























            Don’t toss that old beer: Make some delicious bratwurst



            By ELIZABETH KARMEL          marks  on  the  boiled  sau-  heat any leftovers the next  BEER BRATS & APPLE          erkraut  substitutes  grated
            Associated Press             sages.                       day  or  make  them  a  day  FENNEL SAUERKRAUT            apple  and  fennel  for  the
            When  I  first  moved  to  Chi-  Wanting to make sure what  in  advance  for  a  tailgate.  Servings: 8-10          traditional  cabbage.  The
            cago from North Carolina, I  she said was correct, I tried  Just be sure to simmer the  Start to finish: 30 minutes  result  is  a  fresher,  sweeter
            was amazed at the variety  it  both  ways  and  she  was  hot  sausages  in  the  beer  8-10  pork  bratwursts,  un-  alternative to ballpark sau-
            of sausages.                 100 percent right.           right  after  you  take  them  cooked.                    erkraut.
            There were polish sausages,                                                            1/2 stick unsalted butter.   Serves: 8-10
            bratwurst,  bockwurst,  Ital-                                                          1 large white or yellow on-  1 large fennel bulb.
            ian; sweet and hot, among                                                              ion, divided.                1 tablespoons olive oil.
            others.  At  that  time,  the                                                          2-3 bottles or cans of beer,  1  Large  Vidalia  onion,
            sausage  that  I  knew  best                                                           whatever you drink.          chopped.
            was  knackwurst  which  is                                                             8-10 hoagie, pretzel or po-  5  Granny  Smith  apples,
            smoked like a hot dog, only                                                            tato rolls.                  grated.
            thicker  and  made  from  all                                                          Apple Fennel Sauerkraut, or  1/2 lemon, juiced.
            beef.                                                                                  other favorite condiment.    1 1/2 tablespoons butter.
            When  I  visited  a  German-                                                           5-8 quart Dutch oven.        2   teaspoons    caraway
            style  butcher  shop  in  the                                                                                       seeds.
            city, I was intrigued by the                                                           Preheat the grill.           1/2 cup hard cider or apple
            uncooked,  unsmoked  sau-                                                              Melt the butter in the Dutch  juice.
            sages and couldn’t wait to                                                             oven or heavy duty sauce-    Kosher  salt  and  freshly
            taste  the  “beer  brats”  as                                                          pan.  Cut  the  onion  in  half  ground pepper.
            they are called in Chicago                                                             and  cut  into  half-moon
            and the Midwest.                                                                       slices. Place in the bottom  Clean  and  cut  the  fennel
            I thought that my sausage                                                              of the Dutch oven and let  bulb in long strips (julienne)
            ignorance  was  just  be-                                                              cook for about 5 minutes or  and trim tops. Reserve furry
            cause I was from the South                                                             until  translucent.  Add  the  leafy  part  that  resembles
            but  often,  even  today,                                                              beer and bring to a simmer.  dill and chop finely for later
            when I mention my love of                                                              Set aside.                   use.
            beer brats, people respond                                                             Meanwhile,  remove  brats  Heat oil in heavy-bottomed
            with a “what’s that?”                                                                  from packaging and set in  sauce  pan  over  medium
            Back then, I worked with a                                                             the  center  of  the  cooking  heat,  add  onion  and  ko-
            woman  who  was  from  an                                                              grate  over  indirect  heat.  sher  salt.  Cook  until  onion
            old  German  family  in  Wis-                                                          Turn  occasionally  and  let  begins to brown, add strips
            consin  and  she  schooled                                                             cook for about 20 minutes  of fennel, stir, and let cook
            me  on  the  correct  way  to                                                          or almost cooked through. I  covered  for  about  5  min-
            make beer brats.                                                                       like to cook them until they  utes  or  until  fennel  begins
            She  explained  that  you                                                              are a deep brown color.      to wilt. Reduce heat to me-
            grilled  the  uncooked  brat-                                                          Remove  from  grill  and  dium-low.
            wurst first over indirect heat   This Sept. 17, 2017 photo shows bratwurst sausages simmered in   place  into  the  simmering  Meanwhile,   mix   grated
            until  the  sausage  was  bur-  beer in Houston. This dish is from a recipe by Elizabeth Karmel.   beer  and  onion  mixture.  apple with lemon juice and
            nished brown and cooked                                       (Elizabeth Karmel via AP)  Bring  the  liquid  back  to  a  add  to  pan.  Cover  and
            through.  Then  you  remove                                                            gentle  boil.  Immediately  cook,  stirring  occasionally,
            them  from  the  grill  and  Even  though  most  peo-     off  the  grill  and  then  cool  reduce  the  heat  to  very  for 15 minutes. Add butter,
            place them in a simmering  ple  boil  the  sausages  and  them and store them in the  low and simmer with the lid  mixing  well.  Add  caraway
            pot of beer.                 then grill them, a taste test  refrigerator  in  the  simmer-  on  for  at  least  15  minutes.  seeds, reserved fennel tops
            She  made  sure  that  I  un-  proves her theory right.   ing liquid.                  The  brats  are  now  ready  and  hard  cider  or  apple
            derstood that most people  You  must  grill  first  and  sim-  Serve  the  brats  with  your  to  serve  directly  from  the  juice. Cook for an addition-
            make  the  mistake  of  sim-  mer  second  for  optimum  favorite  buns  and  condi-   stockpot.  If  you  are  going  al  5  minutes,  uncovered.
            mering the sausages first in  flavor,  texture  and  cara-  ments such as potato rolls,  to serve them later, turn off  Season  to  taste  with  salt
            beer and then grilling them.  melization. Besides a better  pretzel  rolls,  spicy  mustard,  the heat but leave them in  and pepper.
            If you do that, the flavor of  flavor,  this  method  is  more  grainy  mustard,  sauerkraut  the liquid. Either refrigerate  Remove from heat and let
            the  uncooked  sausages  convenient.                      or  my  favorite,  Fennel  Ap-  or  simmer  them  again  just  sit  to  allow  the  flavors  to
            melts  into  the  simmering  You  can  grill  the  brats  in  ple  Sauerkraut  for  those  before serving.          mingle. The sauerkraut can
            beer  leaving  the  sausages  advance  and  keep  them  looking for a tangy topping                                 be  made  up  to  two  days
            tasteless,  and  it  is  almost  warm in simmering beer for  but  don’t  like  traditional  Apple Fennel Sauerkraut:  in advance and kept cov-
            impossible to get good grill  1-2 hours. You can even re-  sauerkraut.                 The  dressed-up  mock  sau-  ered until ready to use.q
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