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PEOPLE & ARTS A29
                                                                                                                                                                Monday 29 February 2016

Dolce&Gabbana, Missoni, Ferragamo headline Day 5 in Milan 

COLLEEN BARRY                   But they couldn’t resist a      Models wear creations part of the women’s Dolce & Gabbana Fall-Winter 2016-2017 collection
AP Fashion Writer               happy ending: The finale        that was presented in Milan, Italy, Sunday, Feb. 28, 2016.
MILAN (AP) — A plethora of      was a flourish of pretty fuch-
ribbons and ruffles signaled    sia, pink and silver beaded                                                                                                                (AP Photo/Luca Bruno).
an air of romance in Mi-        and crystal dresses.
lan this fashion season, but    EMBELLISHMENTS
not all the references were     Marni creative director
strictly aesthetic.             Conseulo Castiglioni’s out-
There also was a nostalgic      erwear is nearly puritani-
notion of connecting with       cal in its strictness while
the past, either stylistically  the house’s short dresses
or by challenging expecta-      are adorned with big em-
tions of how that is done.      bellishments like oversized
Some highlights Sunday          translucent sequins and
from previews for next fall     big buttons. The dichotomy
and winter womenswear           suggests a public vs. pri-
collections during the fifth    vate identity: solemn on
day of Milan Fashion Week.      the outside while a party
CINDERELLA LIVES                rages within.
Dolce&Gabbana have              Archway hemline cutouts
turned fairytale conven-        contributed to the solem-
tions on their head: their      nity of the capes and coats
woman is both a princess        in neutral tones, while puffy
and prince.                     sleeves added a romantic
For a world where dreams        touch and demonstrated
do come true, designers         the collection’s exag-
Domenico Dolce and Ste-         gerated proportions. The
fano Gabbana created an         sleeves, which were de-
updated version of Cinder-      tachable with button or
ella’s blue dress, this one     ribbon closures, grew more
a simple cut covered with       audacious as they were
silvery and crystal beads,      enhanced by geometric
with princess short sleeves     patterns.
but without the scalloped       Ribbed shirts with athletic
layers of skirts from story-    stripes gave a sporty touch
book illustrations.             and were tucked into high-
It wouldn’t be giving the       wasted pants or skirts with a
end away to say the slip-       ruffle on top and big pock-
pers were transparent. The      ets. Decorative dresses,
model was also accompa-         meanwhile, were short and
nied by her wishful wash-       decorated with big colorful
erwoman self, wearing a         sequins or cut out of Marni’s
short silken dress with her     trademark prints, includ-
sewing mice.                    ing florals, crystalline color
Then the designers suggest-     blocks and blurred Vene-
ed the Dolce&Gabbana            tian harlequin patterns.
woman is her own prince,        Castiglioni, who built her
creating short Bolero jack-     fashion house out of a fam-
ets with military details and   ily fur business, included
pants that just cover the       no full furs in the runway
knees with stripes down the     show, just a mini-cape and
side. Those looks were fin-     a contrast fur collar. Pointy
ished with military boots.      pumps and boots were
There was also a plethora       built on sculpted, metal-
of black dresses, Includ-       lic heels, some formed like
ing one sexy ruched dress       crystals, others like waves.
that epitomized the brand,      FASHION IDENTITY
though it may be reach-         Designer Stella Jean
ing to say they were for the    probed our notions of iden-
requisite evil queen. The       tity and culture in a new
designers also made over-       collection that examined
sized furry coats in big shim-  Western portraiture and
mering stripes of silver and    sub-Saharan African masks
gold or covered with floral     as ways to recall our an-
appliques.                      cestors.
The fairytale is one of the     The looks mixed tribal mo-
fashion world’s most obvi-      tifs and prints with Europe-
ous references, and the         an tailoring and textiles as
designers turned it around      the Italian-Haitian designer
by focusing on a new gen-       continued to build fashion
eration of princesses who       bridges between the de-
they described as “individ-     veloped and the develop-
uals first and foremost.”       ing worlds.q
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