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Remember the fable ‘The Tortoise and the Hare’? The one where the slow and steady tortoise beats the speedy, con dent hare in a race.
Well, on the basis of that tale, you would expect a train called the ‘Tin Hare’ would be seen haring along the track, so to speak. But when it comes to The Gul ander, this moniker couldn’t be further from the truth. In fact, if The Gul ander was featured in a novel and called the ‘Tin Hare’, you could almost say it was a bit of a ‘red herring’.
What you get with this relic, which meanders through Queensland’s Gulf country, is a hare-raising adventure of
a di erent kind. In fact, its old world appearance is a large part of the appeal. Rocking along in The Gul ander as it
rolls through some stunning terrain, it’s not hard to imagine you’re back in the Gold Rush era, a time when thousands headed to the Gulf, trying to strike it rich. A period when pioneers traversed the land on horseback, not the front seat of a four wheel drive.
What The Gul ander provides better
than any motor vehicle can is a rst hand look at this untamed part of Queensland. It’s an expanse where the mercury will threaten to smash through the top of the thermometer one day; the next, it’s lapping up a soaking from the summer rains. A place where animals roam free and red dirt dominates the landscape.
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There’s a saying that the heat in this part
of the world makes you ‘go troppo’.
A railway line like the one The Gul ander travels on goes a long way to proving this theory.
It really is the track that goes from nowhere to nowhere. Completed in 1891, it runs from the port town of Normanton to the gold rush town of Croydon, and that’s where it ends. The closest railway station you’ll nd from here is in Forsayth, a lazy 200-odd kilometres down the road. It remains the only railway line which has never been linked to the main Queensland Rail network.
The thing is, that’s part of the mystique and charm of the line. The other part is RM93, The Gul ander itself. It’s a three- car railmotor, and on this ol’ girl there are plenty of comfy seats, and every single one has an A-grade view of this amazing country.
Even though the track was laid around 120 years ago, it’s an engineering masterpiece. Given the phenomenal amount of rain that can fall in this area, ooding is a fairly regular occurrence. Somehow, most of the original sleepers from the 1890s are still in place.
It all comes down to the construction process. Engineers had the foresight back then to build hollow steel sleepers which were packed with mud to avoid the need for track ballast in most parts.
This allowed oodwater to simply pass over the top of the rail line. The steel sleepers are also impervious to the termites that are found in great numbers out that way. It means The Gul ander can shake, rattle ’n’ roll its way across the red plains of the outback week after week, year after year.
The Gul ander isn’t the only inhabitant
of this diverse land. Cattle roam on large stations, plenty of native wildlife can be seen quenching their thirst at the various waterholes, and you might even catch a glimpse of some of our less hospitable locals; our snakes, crocodiles and wild pigs, for instance.
There are plenty of locals of the human kind who will be more than willing to welcome you to their turf, though. After all, there are only a thousand or so residents in Normanton, so you might get to know a fair few of the locals if you stay there for a couple of days.
The Gul ander leaves Normanton once a week on a two hour tour from Normanton to Critters Camp each Wednesday, and returns from Croydon the next day. Queensland Rail Travel o ers a variety
of tours leaving from Cairns, so there are plenty of ways to get out to Normanton.
Once you’re out there, keep an ear out for the Red Rattler haring along the track.
The iconic Tin Hare
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9 Day Gulf Savannah Wanderer
Get a true taste of the emotion and romance, tragedies and triumphs of the Gulf Savannah region of North Queensland. Discover a rich history of Aboriginal culture, explorers and pioneers, gold rushes and railways. Inclusions:
• Travel onboard the Gul ander and Savannahlander • 8 nights accommodation
• Guided tour of Chillagoe Limestone Caves
• Karumba Sunset Cruise
• Visit to Bourke and Wills camp #119
• Guided tour of Riversleigh Fossil Fields, Croydon and Undara Lava Tubes • Cruise on Cobbold Gorge
• Hotel pick up and drop o from Cairns accommodation
• 8 breakfasts, 7 lunches, 7 dinners.
From only $3095* per adult, twin share ex Cairns. Visit queenslandrailtravel.com.au
*Travel Period: 23 May–1 Nov 12 . Due to limited accommodation in remote areas, alternative accommodation of a similar standard may apply. Accommodation is a combination of shared and private facilities. Minimum 6 passengers required for tour to operate. Peak periods and block outs may apply. Ask your travel agent for details when booking. Booking conditions apply. Queensland Rail Limited ABN 71 132 181 090 Travel Agent Lic. No. QLD 327 4957
The Red What you get with this relic, which meanders through Queensland’s
Rattler
Gulf country, is a hare-raising adventure of a di erent kind
Catch a glimpse of the locals
A trio of sharp-eyed kookaburras perch above the camp kitchen where a bush breakfast is being served to a group of hungry travellers.
For the unwary, a close encounter is imminent, as in one feathery swoop the fragrant sizzling bacon is snatched from a plate and vanishes down a beak.
There’s laughter and chat around the barbecue, as travellers along the Savannah Way, northern Australia’s epic drive journey, swap stories from the dusty road.
There’s useful intelligence to be had from those who have already traversed your planned route.
We’re at the Undara Experience, just 320km from Cairns and one of the rst stops along this epic drive after leaving the Queensland coast. Undara National Park is a comfortable stop on a sometimes challenging but not too daunting route.
The Savannah Way, which stretches 3700km across the continent from Cairns to Broome, is an adventure that can be tackled in its entirety or in parts.
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One of the easiest and most interesting
sections is from Cairns to Karumba, on
the Gulf of Carpentaria. Driving through Queensland’s Gulf Savannah country gives many reasons to stop and explore, whether you choose to camp or stay in the various basic accommodation options along the way.
Most of this section of the road – the 700km from Cairns to Normanton – is sealed, while other parts require greater care and there are some water courses to ford.
With ve World Heritage areas and 15 national parks to explore along the Savannah Way, as well as many small attractions, there’s plenty to keep your interest.
Unscheduled stops are almost guaranteed for roadside wildlife or bird watching or at unexpected points of interest and small tourist attractions. Think snake handling shows, fossicking for gemstones and local museums.
Undara Experience is a great rst stop
to ease into the trip. Access to Undara National Park and the world’s longest lava tube system is by guided tour only, and Undara Experience also o ers sunset wildlife spotting (the lava tubes are home to colonies of microbats) and other tours.
If you don’t want to camp, there is accommodation in either permanent tents or comfortable restored railway carriages, where there’s a restaurant and bar.
Another highlight as you drive west is the hidden oasis of Cobbold Gorge, a detour from Georgetown. Silently gliding on the river between the gorge’s towering walls aboard electric boats, you are likely to spot the occasional freshwater crocodile.
Cobbold Gorge is on the privately-owned Robin Hood cattle station and access is by guided tour only. There is a camping ground, cabins and a restaurant.
Our next stop is Normanton’s historical railway station to ride the Gul ander.
The old ‘‘tin hare’’ railmotor operates half- day trips between Normanton and the old gold mining town of Croydon.
Take a 70km side trip from Normanton to Karumba, where the best place to be as the sun goes down is the Sunset Tavern at Karumba Point.
Campers can set up at the Karumba Sunset Caravan Park, but if you are looking for a bit of style and comfort, book in at the End of the Road Motel.
If you stay overnight down the road at Burketown from late September to early November, early risers may be treated to the phenomenon of the Morning Glory cloud formations.
Spectacular rolling clouds travelling at up to 60km/h and extending as far as the eye can see appear in the hours before dawn.
It’s worth getting up for!
6 Day Gul ander Indulgence
Indulge in a little time out from the modern world, surrendering to the old style charms of the Gul ander and Savannahlander.
Inclusions:
• Travel from Normanton to Croydon onboard the Gul ander
• Travel from Forsayth to Cairns onboard the Savannahlander
• 2 nights at the End of the Road Motel, Karumba
• 2 nights at Forsayth Tourist Park
• 1 night at Undara Lodge
• Undara Lava Tubes Tour with an
accredited Savannah guide
• Cobbold Gorge boat cruise
• 5 breakfasts and 3 dinners included
From only $1309* per adult, twin share ex Cairns. Visit queenslandrailtravel.com.au *Prices are per person twin share. Rates valid: 01May12–30 Sep12.
Block outs may apply. Ask your travel agent for details. Queensland Rail Limited ABN 71 132 181 090 Travel Agent Lic. No. QLD 327 4957
Undara Lava Tubes, breathtaking!
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on the road to
One of the last stops before crossing into the Northern Territory – and a major highlight of the trip – is Boodjamulla (Lawn Hill) National Park, just south of the Savannah Way.
Accommodation, either camping or cabins, is at Adel’s Grove, where you can kayak up the gorge to the idyllic Indarri Falls.
It’s is a good base for visiting the Riversleigh Fossil Field, the World Heritage- listed mammal fossil site which dates back about 25 million years. The 800m fossil trail takes about an hour.
At the end of the day, you will look forward to washing the red dust of the road away but the memories of driving across every part of this vast continent will stay with you forever.
Fact le
The Savannah Way runs for 3700km from Cairns to Broome. Two routes can be followed. It is possible to do the stretches from Cairns to Normanton (700km) and from Roper Bar to Broome (about 1900km) on sealed road. The alternate route o ers much more unsealed road, including the Gibb River Road in Western Australia. From Normanton to Borroloola, in the Northern Territory, (700km) the road is almost all unsealed.
adventure
If you must leave Queensland, there’s only one way to do it – by cutting a swath across the continent on the Savannah Way, writes Lee Mylne
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If that’s not enough, there will be rail beds, comfortable seats which o er lay- at sleeping similar to airlines. They’ll give travellers the ability to relax in a seat during the day and sleep comfortably at night.
Queensland Rail Chief Executive O cer, Paul Scurrah, is clearly buzzing at the prospect of introducing the new trains in 2014. He said it’s a chance to attract customers who have never seriously considered rail travel before.
“The new Sunlander journey from Brisbane to Cairns will cover more than 1600km in about 26 hours, taking in the magni cent Glasshouse Mountains, the cane country of North Queensland, as well as the majestic tropics beyond Townsville.
“Tourists can leave Brisbane and enjoy Queensland’s world renowned scenery before arriving in Cairns to take in the Great Barrier Reef, or the tropical rainforest via the historic Kuranda Scenic Railway.”
With the three updated Tilt Train models, Queensland Rail Travel will be running six return services between Brisbane and Cairns each week. The trains will also be able to accommodate far more passengers on each trip, as each Tilt Train will be 12 carriages long, compared to the nine-car trains currently in service.
These trains will o er modern, contemporary surrounds with convenience and comfort superior to planes and buses
“This is a step-up for regional train travel in Australia, and will make this unique journey even more special for domestic travellers and our important international tourist market,” Mr Scurrah said.
“These trains will o er modern, contemporary surrounds with convenience and comfort superior
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to planes and buses.”
Mr Scurrah said the new, enhanced trains will be faster than the current Sunlander; cutting at least ve hours o the travel time on the entire route, and will improve reliability and on-time performance.
The new trains will also feature a restaurant car with á la carte dining, a rst class café- style lounge, and a club lounge.
Ever thought of doing an overnighter on The Sunlander?
Maybe you should sleep on it...
The rebirth of
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The Sunlander
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It’s hard to keep a secret in a city the size of Maryborough–population, approximately 25,000. But deep in the depths of Downer Rail’s workshops on the Fraser Coast, Queensland Rail has been keeping its latest project under wraps... until now.
Maryborough is self-styled as ‘The Heritage City’,
but what’s being created there is the latest and greatest
in long distance travel.
The Sunlander is undergoing a AU$189 million facelift; make
no mistake, this is no ordinary spit and polish. Queensland
Rail Travel is replacing its existing Sunlander trains with three
modern Tilt Trains. They’ll still carry The Sunlander name and
customers will still get the same rst class service, but there’s a lot more to get excited about.
For the rst time, Queensland Rail Travel’s new trains will feature deluxe sleeper cars, including personal ensuites. Economy customers haven’t been forgotten either. They’ll enjoy premium seating with at screen televisions and on demand entertainment—for those rare occasions when you pull yourself away from the amazing views outside your window.
Lava Tubes- the bats were so loud
Breaky on the road near Normanton
Normanton Railway station - in the middle of nowhere
Cobbold Gorge