Page 51 - Breath of the Bear
P. 51
accommodates many visitors and still has a view of the falls. Many of the
female sows with cubs, less-dominant bears, and subadult bears spend time
fishing near this platform. The opportunity to observe and photograph bears
from Riffles is sometimes better than from the Upper platform.
Once it’s your turn to go to the Upper platform, you will have one hour to
observe and photograph the bears at the falls. The most dominant bears,
such as 856 and 2020’s Fat Bear Contest Winner, 747, are often seen here
along with bear 480, known as Otis and probably Brooks Falls’ most beloved
bear. You will also see a variety of other bears, from the female sows with
cubs to the subadults, as well. Most people have seen iconic photos of these
bears standing at the top of the falls with salmon jumping into their mouths;
the Upper platform is the place to try to capture that photograph. Once your
hour is up on the Upper platform, you can put your name back on the list upon
exiting and hang out on the Riffles platform again, if time allows.
Up until a couple of years ago, there was also a bridge across the lower river
and a lower observance platform just outside of camp. The area has since
been renovated into a raised boardwalk starting near Brooks Lodge and going
all the way to what used to be just the Lower platform. I was indifferent about
the new boardwalk the first year and felt like it infringed on the bears more
than the previous trails and bridge. My feelings, however, have since changed.
The bears have adjusted to the raised boardwalk and most of them travel
under and around it with no hesitation. This boardwalk has really expanded
the visitor’s ability to observe more bears in the lower river area safely.
That July trip to Brooks Falls in 2013 truly lit a fire inside of me. I have visited
Brooks Falls every year since then. I typically visit in early July and have seen as
many as 27 bears at or near the falls at the same time. July bears are typically
hungry and crabby, fighting for the best fishing spots and trying to satisfy
their hunger after months in hibernation. 2020 was the first year I visited in
the month of September and I noticed a big change in their overall demeanor.
September bears are fat and furry, getting ready for hibernation and appear
to be more tolerant of each other’s presence. I observed only a few bears at
the falls in 2020, but a much higher number of them around the lower river.
I recommend an overnight stay at Brooks Lodge; just note that the lottery
to stay there is drawn more than a year in advance. Campground reservations
open in early January and usually sell out within minutes. Another option is
to find lodging in King Salmon and plan several day trips to Brooks Camp.
Whether planning a trip to Brooks Falls with family, friends, or alone, prepare
yourself for a life-changing experience to cherish forever.
49