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Wild Parrots 599

We give sunflower seeds daily, unless we can get pumpkin seeds (seasonal and rare). Other foods
offered include any vegetable (apart from onion), papaya, banana, any fruit other than pineapple
(which they don’t like) and avocado (that can be toxic), occasional eggs with rice or pasta (beaten
eggs mixed with whole‐grains rice or pasta and leafy‐greens, then baked). A variety of fruits and
ideally vegetables is recommended, with an emphasis on dark green and dark orange vegetables,
such as leafy‐greens, carrots, peppers, pumpkins, squash, and sweet potatoes. A multivitamin sup-
plement is also added to the food at least twice a week.

Feeding­in the Aviaries
High feeders are at the top of ladders at least 15 ft. (4.6 m) in the air. Use hatches for changing out
the baskets of food once each day at the top of these ladders. Hatches in the walls are a great way
to minimize human interaction and involvement with the birds. Hoisted swinging platforms are
excellent, and mimic wild feeding behavior really well; however, caregivers do need to enter the
enclosure to deal with them.

­ Expected­Weight­Gain

Hatchlings and nestlings should gain steadily every day and reach their adult weight by 6–8 weeks.
A weight loss or even absence of weight gain during more than 2 consecutive days should arise
concerns. Be attentive of general condition, especially crop emptying time and stool amount and
consistency, as it could show signs of malabsorption or maldigestion. A fecal analysis for parasites,
and a gram stain of the crop contents and stool, should be a first step in assessing a chick that is not
gaining weight adequately.
In general, expect a daily weight gain of 10% until all feathers are present and out of the pin-
feather stage. The birds will plateau and then drop slightly (around 10% from maximum) just
before fledging.
Weight checks should be carried out daily throughout hand‐feeding, at least every other
day for the first week in their outdoor enclosure, twice weekly during the initial weaning
phase, and weights should be stable once the birds are weaned and in their final flight
enclosure.

­ Housing

Chicks
All parrots in Belize, and the majority of Psittacine species everywhere, are cavity‐nesters.
Knowing this, sympathetic housing is paramount: try to mimic the womb‐like confine of a cavity,
including a minimal patch of light to mimic the cavity entrance. Allow ventilation without drafts.
Cavities are efficient thermoregulators, so be aware of day and night temperature fluctuations
and adjust your efforts accordingly. In the early weeks, most chicks require access to a heat pad;
even with older chicks it is advisable to give them the choice of extra heat. Full strength artificial
light should be used only when necessary for feeding and cleaning. Use dimmed lights or draped
windows otherwise, as they would not be exposed to sunlight and stimulation before fledging
from the cavity.