Page 608 - Hand rearing birds second

Wild Parrots 609

Quarter‐inch wire mesh tends to be made of a thinner and weaker gauge metal than the ½ in.
(1.3 cm), and is therefore less durable to the elements and the parrots. It also makes it difficult to
secure perching using a screw and washer method and the cage clips don’t fit. If ½ in. (1.3 cm) is
used, alternative methods of joining the wire would be needed. The wire is screwed onto the frame
at 2 in. (5.1 cm) intervals using the self‐tapping rubber‐washer metal‐screws.
The 100 ft. (30.5 m) lengths of ½ in. (1.3 cm) hardware cloth (in Belize) have a 4 ft. (1.2 m) width
maximum. To work with this size material, lay out three entire rolls side‐by‐side and use commer-
cial stainless steel cage clips to clip them together, creating a 100 ft. (30.5 m) roll of 12 ft. (3.7 m)
width. Wind it back onto a steel pipe and use ropes to haul it to the top of the enclosure lengthways,
secure the pipe to the frame and pull down the wire needed for one half the roof and the side, then
let the remaining wire roll down the other side. Use galvanized wire or it will rust; post‐welded
galvanized is recommended. No problems have been seen with birds chewing on galvanized steel
and acquiring problems with zinc toxicosis. Avoid “deals” and other cheap options: experience has
shown they rust and degrade very quickly.
BBR uses a flat roof on the smaller enclosures as it is much cheaper and easy to clear off leaves
if necessary (fallen leaves actually make a nice visual barrier). On the large flights, use a pitched
roof for extra height. The rafters in an A‐frame make for great perching braces too. All BBR’s aviar-
ies and enclosures have a ¾ in. (1.9 cm) PVC pipe watering system along the roof. The pipes have
a shut‐off valve for each enclosure and the roof length is drilled with small holes a few inches
apart, creating a simple shower. Wiring the bottom securely in an enclosure 10 × 10 ft. (3 × 3 m) or
less is strongly recommended since rats and other predators burrow through dirt floors at night.
Use shade‐cloth screening between adjoining aviaries: this creates a visual barrier as well as a
physical one to avoid toe‐chewing. Wherever practical, cover up to half of the roof with tin, espe-
cially over the feeding platforms.

A.3­ Methods­of Securing­the Wire­at­Ground­Level
At least 2 ft. (>0.6 m) deep trench with wire buried either into or secured onto cement or wedged
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in place with rocks. Note: wire in the ground rusts easily, so the lower areas will need periodic
replacement.
Cement floor with one or more layers of block wall: use the wall to attach the wire. Be aware this
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is a permanent hard floor, so drainage has to be good
Wire floor with gravel. This is 100% foolproof as there is a secure wire floor and any breaches are
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instantly visible. Only practical for smaller enclosures.

A.4­ Drainage

Over the years, the authors have tried several methods of providing drainage, each having its own
pros and cons. When deciding, consider if there is need to vent the drains into a septic system or
soakaway pit.
PVC pipe in cement floor: plan very carefully to get everything in place before the cement is
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poured. Don’t ever use 90° bends, instead use two 45 s or it blocks up constantly. Anything
smaller than 2 in. (5.1 cm) diameter pipe blocks up easily. A way to close off the pipe when not in
use is needed, lest snakes and rodents take up residence in the aviary.
V‐ditch and/or pipe vent at ground level: this has the same predator proofing issues as the in‐
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floor drain but some other advantages, like needing less pipe. It can also be installed after the
enclosure is built to target a natural low spot. It rarely blocks up.