Page 60 - Mark Gommers "Bowlines Analysis

Negative press about the ‘Bowline’ rarely cites exactly which type of Bowline – simply citing the
word ‘Bowline’. This immediately reveals flawed knowledge and understanding since there are in
fact many different types of Bowlines. The layperson will often simply parrot what was taught or
what was overheard at the crag or at the gym – with an often confusing array of common names
assigned and no clear diagrams or photos to reference against. And many knot book authors are also
guilty of parroting and reprinting concepts which may not have been verified as fact.

Knot MBS yield (ie break) tests are also often cited as strong evidence to avoid ‘Bowlines’ since
many authors report #1047 F8 as producing higher yields. Strength is often cited as an important
factor. The reality is that harness tie-in knots simply don’t fail – there is no fall that can generate
sufficient force to reach the MBS yield point of a knot. Even highlines / tyroleans which are
significantly tensioned do not reach the MBS yield point of termination knots. Of greater
importance are the properties of security and stability – and some recently discovered Bowlines
employ simple yet effective tail maneuvers to lock down the structure.

Of all the Bowline structures presented in this paper, some immediately stand-out as worthy of use
in not only climbing but, in vertical rescue and industrial rope access applications.

The following selection of Bowlines were inspired in part by the development of this paper and I
thank those individuals for allowing me to publish their creations. There are several other worthy
creations found in this paper and in particular – ‘Lee’s link Bowline’ – is another fine candidate as a
tie-in knot for climbing.

The four knots presented below have useful practical applications and I routinely use them in life
support (eg climbing and rescue) applications. Scott’s locked Bowline is perhaps the most effective
yet simple locking maneuver of all the knots presented in this paper.

Scott’s locked Bowline EBSB Bowline Lees locked Yosemite Lee Zep Bowline
(ABoK #1010 derivative) (ABoK #1010 derivative) Bowline (based on a Myrtle)
(ABoK #1010 derivative)

Application: Application: Application:
Anchor systems – end Tie-in knot for climbing. Application: Dual clip-in systems at

termination knot to Totally secure. Solves the security climbing gyms and

anchor points. Elegantly concerns with the Yosemite challenge ropes courses.
simple, yet effective and Inspired by Dan Bowline and improves (Can replace the #1053

adds a third rope Lehman’s EBDB – with upon it by adding a third Butterfly eye knot).

diameter inside the securely held tail. rope diameter inside the
nipping loop. nipping loop. A remarkable creation.

The journey for me is not over – it is a never ending work-in-progress.

Mark Gommers
Australia
Page 59 of 59 Bowline Analysis Version 2.7a 16 July 2016 © Copyright Mark Gommers