Page 32 - O Mahony Journal 2025

THE CASTLES OF THE O MAHONY WESTERN LANDS OF WEST CORK
Ardintenant (aka White) Castle was built in 1310 atop an old dun (stone fort) and was the main
residence for The O Mahony called Chief of the Western Lands. It is along the eastern side of Schull
Harbor about a quarter mile from the water. This castle consisted of a center square keep (residential
tower) surrounded by a defensive wall with two flanking towers and a garderobe (bathroom) on the
east. Entry was via a retractable ladder to the first story (second floor to us Yanks) twenty feet from
the ground. It had few comforts and no fireplaces!

The O Mahony held title under tanistry, the Irish clan system of appointing successor clan chiefs,
until 1592. Then The O Mahony Clan chief along with most western chiefs finally surrendered title to
the Queen of England and had it regranted back to him and held in his individual name. This meant,
of course, the Queen could reclaim the title for any offense and regift it to whomever she wished.

While title was ostensibly given and regranted by the Queen, the O Mahonys in fact ignored the
English subterfuge and tanistry continued with the white rod of chieftainship given by The MacCarthy,
their recognized clan overlord. Various descendants ran afoul of English rule with the resulting gradual
loss of the O Mahony lands. Increasing financial difficulties forced them to rent out the property to
others until the 1641-1652 Confederate War. Then the O Mahony Clan support for the English Ruler
against Cromwell ended with their loss of all title to remaining lands in 1649 although some members
of the Clan stayed on as tenants to their new lord. The Clan gathered here in 1961, 1980 and again
in 1994.
Ballydivlin Castle (aka Castle Strand) was built in 1495 on the cliffs east of Goleen Harbour and
reportedly stood over 80 feet high. It also was given to and regranted by the Queen in 1592. This
was the more desolate and rustic castle The O Mahony moved to permanently when he rented
out Ardintenant Castle. The O Mahony Society has never gathered here because nothing remains.
Shortly after the 1846-47 famine, all its stones were used for the road-making employment scheme to
help relieve distress.
Crookhaven Castle. This was probably built in the 15th
century by Dermod ‘Buntach’ O Mahony and passed down
to his grandson, Conor Fionn O Mahony, the first Fane. Sir
William Hull held the castle by 1641 but was threatened by
the Confederate Irish. A Captain Cole torched it to prevent
it falling into their hands. A visiting bishop in 1700 noted its
location as being in the center of Crookhaven, but just where
is uncertain since no trace whatever remains in the town of
Crookhaven today.
Dunbeacon Castle was built in the mid-15th century by
Dermot ‘Buntach’ O Mahony for his son Dermot. Later, Conor
Fionn O Mahony, the first Fane, granted it to his son Fineen and, in succession, to his son Donal. English
crown forces captured it in retaliation for O Mahony support for O’Neill at Kinsale. It was recaptured
by the Irish but quickly retaken again by the crown. By 1655 it was being held by Dermot MacCarthy
and by 1668 it was held by Colonel Richard Townsend whose family held it for a long time. Two tall
columns were standing about a hundred years ago but only
one remained as recently as twenty years ago. The castle site
is about four miles from Durrus on the road along Dunmanus
Bay on a little headland to the right. It is about seven miles
farther to Dunmanus Castle.
Dunlough Castle overlooks Dunlough Bay about four miles
north from Mizen Head near Crookhaven. It derives its name
from the Gaelic “Dun-a-Locha” for “Fort of the Lake” and is
one of the two most important O Mahony castles in the region
along with Ardintenant Castle. It is reputed to be the oldest of

32