Page 110 - Pie Squared

LARD OR LEAF LARD CRUST

For a Double- or a Single-Crust Slab Pie

Before turning away from a recipe that includes the word lard, let me
introduce you to this wonderful addition to pie crust. Lard has less
saturated fat than butter, so stop fretting. I’m not going to pretend it’s
a health food, but in the world of pies, lard is a welcome addition. A

lard-based crust keeps longer and will not become soggy.
Lard is a beautiful thing. The larger fat crystals mean the lift it
gives a pie crust is unbeatable. It adds flake, structure, and an
unctuousness that’s unmistakable. Smell the lard before using it. If

there’s a whiff of bacon, it may make a better crust for a savory pie.
Leaf lard, harder to find but so worth it, is my personal preference.
Leaf lard is the clean fat surrounding a pig’s kidney. Because it has
no blood lines that run through it, leaf lard’s color is pure white and

there is hardly any flavor, only benefits.
While it is a straightforward task to render lard using a slow
cooker, ready-to-use is a lot easier. These days, it’s available online,
at better butcher shops, and some farmers’ markets.

Lard-based dough softens quickly—those larger fat crystals won’t
hold the chill in the same way as butter—so work quickly on a cold
surface and chill—and rechill—the crust at every stage. Make sure
fillings are completely cold before putting them in the pie, not even

slightly warm, or the crust may end up soggy and tough. Once
baked, this is a gloriously flaky crust, a little sandy, with a clean
flavor. (See here to make the dough by hand or in a stand mixer.)

FOR A DOUBLE CRUST
2½ cups plus 2 tablespoons (325 g) all-purpose flour

12 tablespoons (170 g) rendered lard or leaf lard, cubed and frozen for 20

minutes