Page 57 - Powerlist 2019 - Digital Edition
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really feels like Vogue have very quickly why something may not work. I think the British publication’s history. It was a
normalised things that we were used to more about why it would work and really big deal for us to do that. When
hearing could not work in the magazine why it would be brilliant, and deal with I went to the newsstand to see the
industry. The things we have done, like the challenges after. I’m a big fan of September issue, almost every single
having the first ever black person on networks. I was really touched that magazine had a woman of colour on Media, Publishing & Entertainment
the September cover or the first hijabi a lot of people I worked with at GQ the cover. So we had gone from zero to
model on the cover, were considered immediately said they wanted to come across the board, and I felt very proud.
no-nos before Edward and I started with me to Vogue, not just because it’s
because they were suggested to be Vogue, but because they liked working How will you continue to steer this
damaging for the business. Either with me. So I think one of the main vision of diversity?
consumers wouldn’t buy copies, or attributes is just about bringing people It’s amazing for all of us to see images
they wouldn’t be attracted to it, and with you and building the right networks of ourselves in magazines and it’s
advertisers would be turned off. We’ve inside the organisation. really important for young girls of all
proved otherwise. Sales and advertising backgrounds, whether you are Asian,
revenue have shot up. I’m really proud What is your leadership style? black, older or not model size, to see
of this because we have been doing I used to be very nervous about being true representation. But what’s even
things that we really believe in and what assertive because I didn’t want to be more important beyond the illusion of
we believe is right, rather than just trying seen as a b***h. It’s difficult for women inclusion, is who is behind the scenes
to make more money. in leadership positions. So with any making those decisions. Edward
sort of assertiveness, I always question and I are in brilliant positions to work
What kinds of pressures do you face in myself about what and why I want to authentically with minority groups
your role? ask people something. I question if it’s because we are from a minority group
Time pressure is the major thing when something that is right, and crucially, ourselves and we are hiring people from
you are trying to do lots of different if I would be willing to do myself. That minority groups that we aren’t a part of.
things. As is sustaining your energy. question is always my litmus test, and
In nine months we have changed the then I’m assertive with my request. What is your relationship like
majority of the roles at Vogue, we are But I balance that out with being very with Edward?
working to change the whole strategy empathetic, giving people time and We are extremely close, and were
around revenue structure, as well as the being a good listener – attributes friends before being appointed.
publication’s editorial tone of voice. It’s a that are conversely associated with Workwise, Edward’s role as Editor-In-
lot, so time is a really big one. And with being a woman are the ones I’ve really Chief is to ensure that the content and
time pressures come maintaining health. embraced. It’s about balancing the creativity of Vogue as a media brand
Health is the new wealth and time is the strength and clarity with rewards, care is high and interesting, while my role
new luxury that nobody has enough of and empathy for the people I work with. is to ensure that Vogue as a media
to spare. brand is profitable. The more I’m able
In terms of diversity, how do you think to generate revenue for the brand the
How do you deal with the pressures the fashion publishing industry is more I can facilitate and help fund
that come with such a high-profile progressing? Edward’s creativity.
position? There is progress, but I think we need We recently had Oprah Winfrey on
I have been in my industry for 20 years to continue to push for more. When I the cover, the first time ever in her 40-
now and I trust my instincts solidly. If was at GQ, there was a lot of celebration year career. For a shoot as big as this,
I can see something that no-one else about me being the first woman and we had an incredible photographer,
can, it doesn’t mean it’s not there. Any person of colour in the role. tailor-made couture gowns and 35
sort of change-making is challenging However the key was that I was the guards on the shoot to watch all the
because as human beings we are first woman to do the job, irrespective jewellery. That all required money. So
taught to treat change with resistance, of race, and I often thought, who is his creativity and him really being able
so I went into this role knowing that going to be next? to spread his wings relies on my doing
some people would be uncomfortable Almost everybody in our industry my role successfully and vice versa. The
with some of the things – and certainly had a connection to each other and brilliant thing about our relationship is
some of things that our editor Edward – what that meant was, unwittingly, it that we both get that, we back each
wanted to do. Yet I felt really confident. was very difficult for anyone who is other up 100 percent. It’s a really great
I’m really lucky to have a strong different to rise up the ladder. So I set partnership.
network of people around me, many up a paid scheme, bringing in people
accomplished women in their own to work on GQ for six months on short Outside of work, are you involved in
fields, who I can bounce things off and programmes and contracts who had no any mentoring programmes?
get advice from. connection to Condé Nast. I’m a fellow of the University of the Arts
So I think the pipeline is the issue. and for the past four years I have been
What attributes and skills have helped Since ‘new Vogue’ and us changing involved in mentoring programmes
you get where you are today? things around, it’s become quite popular where I meet young people from
I don’t focus too much on what the to have more diverse models on covers. various backgrounds. It’s useful to
barriers are. I’ve noticed that among On our September issue, notoriously the speak to a different generation about
many brilliant women I know, the first most important issue in the magazine’s what their perception is about what we
thing they are taught to do is think annual calendar, we had Rihanna on our are doing.
about what the challenges are and cover, the first ever woman of colour in
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