Page 57 - Powerlist 2019 - Digital Edition
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really feels like Vogue have very quickly   why something may not work. I think   the British publication’s history. It was a
                  normalised things that we were used to   more about why it would work and   really big deal for us to do that. When
                  hearing could not work in the magazine   why it would be brilliant, and deal with   I went to the newsstand to see the
                  industry. The things we have done, like   the challenges after. I’m a big fan of   September issue, almost every single
                  having the first ever black person on   networks. I was really touched that   magazine had a woman of colour on     Media, Publishing & Entertainment
                  the September cover or the first hijabi   a lot of people I worked with at GQ   the cover. So we had gone from zero to
                  model on the cover, were considered   immediately said they wanted to come   across the board, and I felt very proud.
                  no-nos before Edward and I started   with me to Vogue, not just because it’s
                  because they were suggested to be   Vogue, but because they liked working   How will you continue to steer this
                  damaging for the business. Either   with me. So I think one of the main   vision of diversity?
                  consumers wouldn’t buy copies, or   attributes is just about bringing people   It’s amazing for all of us to see images
                  they wouldn’t be attracted to it, and   with you and building the right networks   of ourselves in magazines and it’s
                  advertisers would be turned off. We’ve   inside the organisation.  really important for young girls of all
                  proved otherwise. Sales and advertising                         backgrounds, whether you are Asian,
                  revenue have shot up. I’m really proud   What is your leadership style?  black, older or not model size, to see
                  of this because we have been doing   I used to be very nervous about being   true representation. But what’s even
                  things that we really believe in and what   assertive because I didn’t want to be   more important beyond the illusion of
                  we believe is right, rather than just trying   seen as a b***h. It’s difficult for women   inclusion, is who is behind the scenes
                  to make more money.             in leadership positions. So with any   making those decisions. Edward
                                                  sort of assertiveness, I always question   and I are in brilliant positions to work
                  What kinds of pressures do you face in   myself about what and why I want to   authentically with minority groups
                  your role?                      ask people something. I question if it’s   because we are from a minority group
                  Time pressure is the major thing when   something that is right, and crucially,   ourselves and we are hiring people from
                  you are trying to do lots of different   if I would be willing to do myself. That   minority groups that we aren’t a part of.
                  things. As is sustaining your energy.   question is always my litmus test, and
                  In nine months we have changed the   then I’m assertive with my request.   What is your relationship like
                  majority of the roles at Vogue, we are   But I balance that out with being very   with Edward?
                  working to change the whole strategy   empathetic, giving people time and   We are extremely close, and were
                  around revenue structure, as well as the   being a good listener – attributes   friends before being appointed.
                  publication’s editorial tone of voice. It’s a   that are conversely associated with   Workwise, Edward’s role as Editor-In-
                  lot, so time is a really big one. And with   being a woman are the ones I’ve really   Chief is to ensure that the content and
                  time pressures come maintaining health.   embraced. It’s about balancing the   creativity of Vogue as a media brand
                  Health is the new wealth and time is the   strength and clarity with rewards, care   is high and interesting, while my role
                  new luxury that nobody has enough of   and empathy for the people I work with.  is to ensure that Vogue as a media
                  to spare.                                                       brand is profitable. The more I’m able
                                                  In terms of diversity, how do you think   to generate revenue for the brand the
                  How do you deal with the pressures   the fashion publishing industry is   more I can facilitate and help fund
                  that come with such a high-profile   progressing?               Edward’s creativity.
                  position?                       There is progress, but I think we need   We recently had Oprah Winfrey on
                  I have been in my industry for 20 years   to continue to push for more. When I   the cover, the first time ever in her 40-
                  now and I trust my instincts solidly. If   was at GQ, there was a lot of celebration   year career. For a shoot as big as this,
                  I can see something that no-one else   about me being the first woman and   we had an incredible photographer,
                  can, it doesn’t mean it’s not there. Any   person of colour in the role.   tailor-made couture gowns and 35
                  sort of change-making is challenging   However the key was that I was the   guards on the shoot to watch all the
                  because as human beings we are   first woman to do the job, irrespective   jewellery. That all required money. So
                  taught to treat change with resistance,   of race, and I often thought, who is   his creativity and him really being able
                  so I went into this role knowing that   going to be next?       to spread his wings relies on my doing
                  some people would be uncomfortable   Almost everybody in our industry   my role successfully and vice versa. The
                  with some of the things – and certainly   had a connection to each other and   brilliant thing about our relationship is
                  some of things that our editor Edward –   what that meant was, unwittingly, it   that we both get that, we back each
                  wanted to do. Yet I felt really confident.   was very difficult for anyone who is   other up 100 percent. It’s a really great
                  I’m really lucky to have a strong   different to rise up the ladder. So I set   partnership.
                  network of people around me, many   up a paid scheme, bringing in people
                  accomplished women in their own   to work on GQ for six months on short   Outside of work, are you involved in
                  fields, who I can bounce things off and   programmes and contracts who had no   any mentoring programmes?
                  get advice from.                connection to Condé Nast.       I’m a fellow of the University of the Arts
                                                    So I think the pipeline is the issue.   and for the past four years I have been
                  What attributes and skills have helped   Since ‘new Vogue’ and us changing   involved in mentoring programmes
                  you get where you are today?    things around, it’s become quite popular   where I meet young people from
                  I don’t focus too much on what the   to have more diverse models on covers.   various backgrounds. It’s useful to
                  barriers are. I’ve noticed that among   On our September issue, notoriously the   speak to a different generation about
                  many brilliant women I know, the first   most important issue in the magazine’s   what their perception is about what we
                  thing they are taught to do is think   annual calendar, we had Rihanna on our   are doing.
                  about what the challenges are and   cover, the first ever woman of colour in



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