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We departed the ship early for the visitors center The weather was iffy, with sun and wind-driven
where we joined our guide for a short walk to the sprinkles. Prepared for chillier conditions on the
boat, a refitted 45-foot-long Grand Banks yacht water, I donned my practical souvenir - a knit hat
smaller than the ship’s lifeboats used for tendering. embroidered with Ushuaia End of the World. Inside
Our fellow adventurers were a mix of young and old the small warm cabin, the bundled up passengers
bound for the Beagle Channel named after HMS were cheerful and chatty as we headed out - until
Beagle, the ship made famous by Charles Darwin the wind picked up and swells crashed over the
but also known for the first survey of this isolated bow of the boat. Looks of concern replaced smiles,
region. including Mary’s since she is prone to seasickness.
118 WDT MAGAZINE WINTER 2018