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                                                                                     PEOPLE & ARTS Wednesday 26 June 2019

            Sheer spectacle: Paris is the real star of menswear shows


            By THOMAS ADAMSON                                                                                                   his  80’s  heyday.  Eye-pop-
            Associated Press                                                                                                    ping  colors  —  cerise  pink,
            PARIS  (AP)  —  The  French                                                                                         bright medium blue, laven-
            capital,  in  all  its  splendor                                                                                    der blue, straw yellow and
            and  architectural  beauty,                                                                                         Venetian  red  —  added  a
            was the star of Paris Fashion                                                                                       summer’s  lift  to  simple  sil-
            Week  Thursday  as  houses                                                                                          houettes that let the pleats
            put  on  elaborate  outdoor                                                                                         do the talking.
            displays  in  some  of  the                                                                                         A  simple  pair  of  tubular
            city’s most iconic squares.                                                                                         pants  was  endowed  with
            Louis Vuitton used the Place                                                                                        a  sublime  paper-like  feel
            Dauphine by the Pont Neuf                                                                                           owing to the crisp pleated
            bridge  to  showcase  its                                                                                           lines.  A  loose  hooded  shirt
            blooming    flower-themed                                                                                           in blue looked almost regal
            menswear designs.                                                                                                   as the interlocking pleated
            Guests,  including  model                                                                                           segments fell and bounced
            Gigi Hadid, NBA star Lebron                                                                                         at different angles.
            James and actor Joel Edg-                                                                                           It’s still uncertain if the Hom-
            erton,  sat  in  bistro  chairs,                                                                                    me Plisse collection will be
            sipped Vuitton coffee and                                                                                           a permanent fixture on the
            ate designer crepes.                                                                                                Paris calendar.
            The Place des Vosges was                                                                                            OWENS  EXPLORES  MEXI-
            Issey   Miyake’s    chosen                                                                                          CAN HERITAGE
            stage —  a rare get, even    A model wears a creation for the Vuitton mens Spring-Summer 2020 fashion collection presented   Rick  Owens  said  he  was
            by fashion week standards.   in Paris, Thursday, June 20, 2019.                                                     spurred on by U.S. President
            The  17th  century  square                                                                         Associated Press  Donald Trump’s policies on
            was  used  with  aplomb  to  garland accessories and in  ing  hats,  baggy  fuchsia  ticolored maypole and, at  the Mexican border wall to
            put  on  the  Franco-Japa-   prints of flower bouquets on  skirts,  billowing  gray  pon-  the  end,  embarked  on  an  explore  his  own  personal
            nese  house’s  spectacular  loose silk twill shirts or on silk  chos  met  white  rubber  all-out  park  carnival,  re-  Mexican  heritage  in  this
            musical  extravaganza  in  hoodies  with  a  street-wise  boots  and  several  looked  plete with a musical  band  season’s show.
            homage to the pleat.         edge.                        meshed  together  surreally  and drummers.                The  references  produced
            Here are some highlights of  But  he  also  used  it  meta-  with a large kite. But while  Even  the  normally  pursed-  a typically funky and com-
            the  men’s  spring-summer  phorically  to  produce  a  there were plenty of ideas,  lipped  fashionistas  got  up  plex  display,  but  one  that
            2020 collections.            show that was, at its heart,  there  was  a  hollowness  to  to dance.                 seemed  only  very  loosely
            LOUIS VUITTON’S BLOSSOM-     all  about  growing  up  as  a  some looks, which seemed  With  all  the  commotion,  based  on  the  Mexican
            ING BOYHOOD                  boy and developing a per-    more  aimed  at  delivering  some  almost  forgot  their  theme.
            Bystanders    stopped    to  sonal identity.              a  forced  message  than  a  reason  for  coming:  The  A  key  look  was  the  sharp-
            gawp  at  the  sheer  spec-  “Through  the  stages  of  wearable aesthetic.            clothes.  It  was  a  simple,  shouldered  tailored  silhou-
            tacle.                       boyhood,  young  men’s  MIYAKE’S  PARTY  IN  THE  yet  effective,  collection  of  ette,  often  against  a  bare
            A  bouncy  castle,  balloon  encounter    with   clothes  PARK                         loose proportions.           chest.  It  featured  some-
            sculptures,  Louis  Vuitton-  and fashion is yet to be in-  If the setting of one of Par-  As  the  brand  name  sug-  times  with  dazzling  sequins
            branded flags and even a  fluenced  by  societal  pro-    is’  most  beautiful  squares  gests   (“plisse”   means  that Owens said were “like
            Louis  Vuitton  crepe  stand  gramming. Our exploration  seemed  grand,  the  occa-    “pleats” in French), the dis-  the  folkloric  skirts  my  mom
            populated  the  Place  Dau-  of dress codes is still liberat-  sion — the runway debut of  play went all out on bounc-  wore  in  school  pageants
            phine  —  a  normally  quiet  ed...  of  social  norms,  gen-  Issey  Miyake’s  newest  line  ing  volumes  and  pleats,  growing up in Puebla, Mex-
            square  that  is  well-known  der  conventions,”  Abloh  Homme  Plisse  —  was  an  which is a house signature.     ico.”  Raised  in  Southern
            among Parisians as strolling  explained.                  appropriate one.             Indeed, pleats and the use  California by a native Mexi-
            territory — for designer Virgil  This  idea  became  the  It  was  a  show  unlike  any  of cutting-edge techniques  can mother, Owens said his
            Abloh’s spring offering.     spring  board  for  much  ex-  other.                     in  fabric  construction  was  father  worked  with  Mexi-
            This season, Abloh’s theme  perimentation  among  the  Models  danced  with  um-       originally  responsible  for  can  migrant  farm  workers
            was the blooming flower.     58 looks.                    brellas, ran, played soccer,  making   house    founder  —  a  point  that  influenced
            He used it literally in flower  Large   straw   garden-   tied ribbons around a mul-   Issey Miyake famous during  his creative process here.q


            Bulgari exhibit in Rome features

            “La Dolce Vita”-era jewels



            Associated Press
            ROME (AP) — Glamorous jewelry and vintage fashion from the “La Dolce Vita” era are
            the star attractions of Bulgari’s new exhibition in Rome.
            The exhibition “Bvlgari, the story, the dream” includes the diamond-and-sapphire sautoir
            necklace that Hollywood star Richard Burton gave Elizabeth Taylor during their stormy
            love affair.
            The exhibition is hosted in two historical palazzos, Palazzo Venezia and Castel Sant’Angelo.
            Palazzo Venezia tells the brand’s history, beginning with its founding by Greek silversmith
            Sotirio Bulgari. The glamour comes in at Castel Sant’Angelo, where the “Hollywood and
            the Tiber” section features jewels owned or worn by legendary actresses including So-  A  man  looks  at  a  Bulgari  necklace  and earrings  in  gold  with
            phia Loren, Gina Lollobrigida and Audrey Hepburn.                                      diamonds from 1969 during a preview of the exhibition “Bulgari.
            The installations also feature vintage haute couture pieces from the collection of Cecilia   The story, the dream” at St. Angel Castle in Rome, Tuesday, June
            Matteucci Lavarini, with items from Christian Dior, Yves Saint Laurent and Schiaparelli.  25, 2019.
            The show runs until Nov. 3.q                                                                                                   Associated Press
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