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PEOPLE & ARTS Wednesday 26 June 2019
Sheer spectacle: Paris is the real star of menswear shows
By THOMAS ADAMSON his 80’s heyday. Eye-pop-
Associated Press ping colors — cerise pink,
PARIS (AP) — The French bright medium blue, laven-
capital, in all its splendor der blue, straw yellow and
and architectural beauty, Venetian red — added a
was the star of Paris Fashion summer’s lift to simple sil-
Week Thursday as houses houettes that let the pleats
put on elaborate outdoor do the talking.
displays in some of the A simple pair of tubular
city’s most iconic squares. pants was endowed with
Louis Vuitton used the Place a sublime paper-like feel
Dauphine by the Pont Neuf owing to the crisp pleated
bridge to showcase its lines. A loose hooded shirt
blooming flower-themed in blue looked almost regal
menswear designs. as the interlocking pleated
Guests, including model segments fell and bounced
Gigi Hadid, NBA star Lebron at different angles.
James and actor Joel Edg- It’s still uncertain if the Hom-
erton, sat in bistro chairs, me Plisse collection will be
sipped Vuitton coffee and a permanent fixture on the
ate designer crepes. Paris calendar.
The Place des Vosges was OWENS EXPLORES MEXI-
Issey Miyake’s chosen CAN HERITAGE
stage — a rare get, even A model wears a creation for the Vuitton mens Spring-Summer 2020 fashion collection presented Rick Owens said he was
by fashion week standards. in Paris, Thursday, June 20, 2019. spurred on by U.S. President
The 17th century square Associated Press Donald Trump’s policies on
was used with aplomb to garland accessories and in ing hats, baggy fuchsia ticolored maypole and, at the Mexican border wall to
put on the Franco-Japa- prints of flower bouquets on skirts, billowing gray pon- the end, embarked on an explore his own personal
nese house’s spectacular loose silk twill shirts or on silk chos met white rubber all-out park carnival, re- Mexican heritage in this
musical extravaganza in hoodies with a street-wise boots and several looked plete with a musical band season’s show.
homage to the pleat. edge. meshed together surreally and drummers. The references produced
Here are some highlights of But he also used it meta- with a large kite. But while Even the normally pursed- a typically funky and com-
the men’s spring-summer phorically to produce a there were plenty of ideas, lipped fashionistas got up plex display, but one that
2020 collections. show that was, at its heart, there was a hollowness to to dance. seemed only very loosely
LOUIS VUITTON’S BLOSSOM- all about growing up as a some looks, which seemed With all the commotion, based on the Mexican
ING BOYHOOD boy and developing a per- more aimed at delivering some almost forgot their theme.
Bystanders stopped to sonal identity. a forced message than a reason for coming: The A key look was the sharp-
gawp at the sheer spec- “Through the stages of wearable aesthetic. clothes. It was a simple, shouldered tailored silhou-
tacle. boyhood, young men’s MIYAKE’S PARTY IN THE yet effective, collection of ette, often against a bare
A bouncy castle, balloon encounter with clothes PARK loose proportions. chest. It featured some-
sculptures, Louis Vuitton- and fashion is yet to be in- If the setting of one of Par- As the brand name sug- times with dazzling sequins
branded flags and even a fluenced by societal pro- is’ most beautiful squares gests (“plisse” means that Owens said were “like
Louis Vuitton crepe stand gramming. Our exploration seemed grand, the occa- “pleats” in French), the dis- the folkloric skirts my mom
populated the Place Dau- of dress codes is still liberat- sion — the runway debut of play went all out on bounc- wore in school pageants
phine — a normally quiet ed... of social norms, gen- Issey Miyake’s newest line ing volumes and pleats, growing up in Puebla, Mex-
square that is well-known der conventions,” Abloh Homme Plisse — was an which is a house signature. ico.” Raised in Southern
among Parisians as strolling explained. appropriate one. Indeed, pleats and the use California by a native Mexi-
territory — for designer Virgil This idea became the It was a show unlike any of cutting-edge techniques can mother, Owens said his
Abloh’s spring offering. spring board for much ex- other. in fabric construction was father worked with Mexi-
This season, Abloh’s theme perimentation among the Models danced with um- originally responsible for can migrant farm workers
was the blooming flower. 58 looks. brellas, ran, played soccer, making house founder — a point that influenced
He used it literally in flower Large straw garden- tied ribbons around a mul- Issey Miyake famous during his creative process here.q
Bulgari exhibit in Rome features
“La Dolce Vita”-era jewels
Associated Press
ROME (AP) — Glamorous jewelry and vintage fashion from the “La Dolce Vita” era are
the star attractions of Bulgari’s new exhibition in Rome.
The exhibition “Bvlgari, the story, the dream” includes the diamond-and-sapphire sautoir
necklace that Hollywood star Richard Burton gave Elizabeth Taylor during their stormy
love affair.
The exhibition is hosted in two historical palazzos, Palazzo Venezia and Castel Sant’Angelo.
Palazzo Venezia tells the brand’s history, beginning with its founding by Greek silversmith
Sotirio Bulgari. The glamour comes in at Castel Sant’Angelo, where the “Hollywood and
the Tiber” section features jewels owned or worn by legendary actresses including So- A man looks at a Bulgari necklace and earrings in gold with
phia Loren, Gina Lollobrigida and Audrey Hepburn. diamonds from 1969 during a preview of the exhibition “Bulgari.
The installations also feature vintage haute couture pieces from the collection of Cecilia The story, the dream” at St. Angel Castle in Rome, Tuesday, June
Matteucci Lavarini, with items from Christian Dior, Yves Saint Laurent and Schiaparelli. 25, 2019.
The show runs until Nov. 3.q Associated Press