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A32    FEATURE
                    Monday 19 august 2019

            Tourists go off beaten path on North Korea's sacred volcano



            By ERIC TALMADGE                                                                                                    Any  big  expansion  in  the
            Associated Press                                                                                                    numbers  of  foreign  tour-
            MOUNT  PAEKTU,  North  Ko-                                                                                          ists will require an easing of
            rea  (AP)  —  Foreign  tour-                                                                                        international  sanctions  in
            ists  looking  to  go  off  the                                                                                     place to push Kim to aban-
            beaten path in North Korea                                                                                          don  his  nuclear  weapons
            can now camp out on the                                                                                             program.
            country's biggest volcano.                                                                                          Shepherd's  trekking  group
            Hoping to open up a side of                                                                                         was  made  up  of  two  Aus-
            North Korea rarely seen by                                                                                          tralian  women  and  two
            outsiders, a New Zealander                                                                                          Norwegian  men.  Tourists
            who  has  extensive  experi-                                                                                        from  the  United  States  are
            ence  climbing  the  moun-                                                                                          blocked  from  coming  to
            tains  of  North  and  South                                                                                        North  Korea  by  a  travel
            Korea  is  leading  the  first                                                                                      ban  imposed  by  President
            group of foreign tourists al-                                                                                       Donald  Trump  in  response
            lowed to trek off road and                                                                                          to  the  death  of  Ameri-
            camp  out  under  the  stars                                                                                        can  college  student  Otto
            on  Mount  Paektu,  a  huge                                                                                         Warmbier, who died shortly
            volcano  that  straddles  the                                                                                       after his release from North
            border that separates Chi-                                                                                          Korean  custody  for  alleg-
            na and North Korea.                                                                                                 edly trying to steal a propa-
            In 946 AD, Paektu was the                                                                                           ganda banner.
            site  of  one  of  the  largest   In this Sunday, Aug. 18,2019, photo, Tarjei Naess Skrede of Norway who is hiking with Roger Shep-  By  the  time  Warmbier  was
            eruptions in history. It is con-  herd of Hike Korea stands near a view of the caldera and Lake Chon on Mount Paektu in North   released, he was in a veg-
            sidered  one  of  the  most   Korea.                                                                                etative  state.  What  hap-
            beautiful  natural  sites  in                                                                      Associated Press  pened  to  Warmbier  while
            North Korea and  is  still  ac-  can  stay  in  nearby  hotels  against  the  Japanese  co-  they were to spend on the  he was in custody remains
            tive,  though  there  haven't  and drive right up to its cra-  lonial  rulers  before  1945  —  hike.               unclear.
            been  any  big  eruptions  in  ter to see the blue waters of  a  possible  reason  why  the  Under leader Kim Jong Un,  Incidents  involving  tour-
            recent years.                Lake Chon in Paektu's cal-   idea  of  allowing  a  foreign  North  Korea  has  placed  a  ists are rare, however, and
            It's revered in the North for  dera.                      camping excursion clicked  high  priority  on  develop-   Shepherd said his intention
            its  links  to  the  ruling  Kim  But Roger Shepherd, found-  with  the  local  authorities.  ing its tourism industry as a  is  to  get  beyond  politics
            family  and  is  considered  er  of  Hike  Korea,  which  is  But  Shepherd's  group  has  source  of  much-needed  during the hike.
            the  spiritual  home  of  the  based  in  the  South,  man-  for the most part managed  foreign  currency  and  as  He  said  that  after  the  first
            Korean  revolution.  Trips  to  aged  to  convince  North  to  avoid  the  typical  mini-  an  industry  that  can  be  day,  the  trekkers  had  al-
            the  mountain  are  popular  Korean  government  of-      bus  and  propaganda  lec-   fairly closely controlled and  ready  begun  to  forge
            with  North  Koreans  who  ficials  to  let  him  take  his  ture experience that often  monitored.                 bonds  with  their  North  Ko-
            visit with their schools, work  guests off the beaten path  awaits foreign tourists here.  It  is  currently  carrying  out  rean guides.
            units or other social groups  for the first time.         On  Saturday,  the  group  massive  infrastructure  proj-  "I  hope  that  it's  because
            on excursions that are part  The area around the moun-    climbed the mountain from  ects  in  several  locations,  mountains and nature does
            indoctrination  and  part  tain features several recon-   near its base, walked to the  including  at  Samjiyon,  the  that," he said. "Out here it's
            recreation.                  structed "secret campsites"  lake from the rim and then  largest  city  near  Mount  very  apolitical.  There's  no
            It's  also  popular  with  Chi-  said to have been used by  hiked out across a volcanic  Paektu,  and  in  the  east-  need for the nonsense out
            nese  tourists  and  smaller  national founder Kim Il Sung  plateau to pitch their tents  ern  port  city  of  Wonsan  here. We're all trying to do
            foreign  tour  groups  who  and his guerrillas in the fight  for  the  first  of  five  nights  and  the  adjacent  Mount  the same thing.
                                                                                                   Kumgang area, which was  Work  together  as  a  team,
                                                                                                   open to South Korean tour-   pitch  tents,  eat  together
                                                                                                   ists until around 2008, when  walk together. In my experi-
                                                                                                   a  South  Korean  housewife  ence, that's a good way for
                                                                                                   was shot for wandering into  these  guys  to  see  the  real
                                                                                                   a restricted area.           people of this country."q

























                                                                                                   In this Sunday, Aug. 18, 2019, photo, a group of foreign hikers
            In this Sunday, Aug. 18, 2019, photo, Sinead of Australia, chats with Paula of Australia and Tarjei   lead by Roger Shepherd of Hike Korea, visits a monument near
            Naess Skrede of Norway during a on Mount Paektu in North Korea.                        Mount Paektu in North Korea.
                                                                                  Associated Press                                          Associated Press
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