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U.S. NEWS Thursday 13 april 2017

Plant butchers use charcuterie techniques, mimic meat flavor

KELLI KENNEDY vegans and vegetarians they’ve ever had. That’s re- of sausage, including co- create a beer bratwurst for
Associated Press who long for greasy com- ally the goal. We’re not out conut and pineapple, a July 4th cookout.
MIAMI (AP) — When Ryan fort food, but abstain for to be the best vegan food has given Aubry and Kale “It was delicious,” said
Bauhaus first experimented ethical reasons. Much of producers, we’re out to be Walch a chance to get to Born, whose husband and
with faux meats, he fixated the plant-based move- a great food producer,” know the community. The three children are also veg-
on recreating that taste of ment has catered to the said Kim. siblings said they originally an. “My (extended) family
blood, settling on a tomato health-conscious crowd His popular seitan steak in- opened the butcher shop is not vegan and they al-
paste blend to mimic the that eschews gluten, fried cludes pureed asparagus as a platform for animal ways grill out and I thought
acidic, iron flavor. For the foods and highly processed
fat, Bauhaus boiled down fake meats. The butchers
mushrooms until he got the are not to be confused
desired texture similar to with vegan restaurants that
the fat cap on a roast. create dishes using meat
Calorie counting, gluten substitutes. Plant butchers
banning and tofu bean are out to make products
patties aren’t happening similar in texture and fla-
at Bauhaus’ Atlas Meat- vor to real meat. They sell
Free Delicatessen in Miami. their meats and cheeses
On the contrary, there’s six by the pounds, along with
ounces of peppery pastra- deli sandwiches. Their main
mi and two kinds of kraut ingredient, wheat gluten,
on top of the Rachel on Rye also known as seitan, has
sandwich. The Krispy Fried an extremely high protein
Chk’n sandwich is served content and flavor profile
with a creamy garlic aioli similar to animal meat.
on a doughy pretzel bun. “There’s this riffing on the
It’s breaded and dipped idea of the butcher shop
in cashew buttermilk that and what it means to com-
turns into a golden crunch munities in the past,” said
when it’s deep fried, melt- Chris Kim, executive chef
ing the house-made soy of Monks Food Co in Brook-
milk cheddar on top. lyn. Chef Ryan Bauhaus poses for a photo at his Atlas Meat-Free Delicatessen, in Miami. When Bau-
The world of meatless cook- He disagrees with the eth- haus first started experimenting with faux meats, he fixated on recreating that subtle blood taste,
ing has a new player: plant ics of animal slaughter but settling on a tomato paste blend to mimic the acidic, iron flavor. (AP Photo/Alan Diaz)
butchers. They’re gaining admires the skill and knowl-
loyal followings across the edge of butchers: “When
country, applying tech- someone comes in we and rosemary. The seitan activism and to help peo- it would be nice to have
niques used with traditional say, ‘What are you looking ham is brined and smoked, ple know where their food something to grill out that
meats like brining, brazing, for? What are you trying to and they do a Kansas City- is coming from. was similar to what they
aging and mesquite smok- make?’” style BBQ seitan slab during “A lot of our customers will were eating.”
ing. The butchers also sell Kim mixes two different the summer. come to us with ridiculous The sibling butchers have
handmade cheese, made types of wheat gluten in his They sell wholesale to res- things that they’re craving fielded tons of requests
with nut, soy and coconut spicy Italian meatballs — a taurants, caterers and indi- and we’re able to make for more gluten-free prod-
bases rather than cow, red/dark meat style and vidual customers and are that for them. That’s the ucts. They currently sell
goat or sheep milk. one infused with an aspar- opening their first brick and fun,” said Kale Walch. a meatloaf made with
Labor is intensive — a single agus puree. A seitan-based mortar shop this spring. Betsy Born and her hus- mushrooms, oats and car-
meatball can take nearly salami, cured for 12 hours in Everything at the Herbivo- band love their shredded rots and several products
20 hours to make. a dehydrator, is added for rous Butcher, a brother- chicken for tacos and use using a jackfruit base, but
“Most of my overhead is texture before the meat- and-sister business out of the ground beef for la- are experimenting with a
labor,” said Bauhaus, who balls are hand formed, Minneapolis, is made in sagna. Often, they’ll use substitute to make all their
could use a meat grinder, fried and steamed. small batches and hand- them on a simple meat products gluten free.
but prefers to do it by hand. “We hear people saying formed. The storefront, and cheese tray. Once “We’re definitely trying,”
The fare is popular among this is the best meatball which boasts 100 flavors they asked the siblings to said Aubry Walch.q