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A32    FEATURE
                   Tuesday 1 OcTOber 2019
            Does outsourcing affect our personal connection to food?



            By MELISSA RAYWORTH                                                                                                 and they have no idea how
            Associated Press                                                                                                    to  feed  themselves.  They
            The  growing  options  for                                                                                          don't know how to grocery
            outsourcing   meal    plan-                                                                                         shop.  They  don't have  ba-
            ning,   grocery   shopping                                                                                          sic cooking skills."
            and cooking can be called                                                                                           Jenike  notices  the  same
            time-saving blessings or cul-                                                                                       thing at his university: "One
            ture-destroying  curses.  In                                                                                        of  the  real  problems  with
            the  end,  they're  probably                                                                                        things  like  Uber  Eats  and
            a complicated mix of both.                                                                                          eating  out  all  the  time
            The  positive  spin  goes                                                                                           and  food  delivery  is  that
            something  like  this:  Assum-                                                                                      so many kids now grow up
            ing you can afford it, you'll                                                                                       without the skills to prepare
            save precious time by click-                                                                                        their own food."
            ing a few digital boxes and                                                                                         A company called Starship
            getting  someone  else  to                                                                                          Technologies  has  begun
            choose  your  vegetables                                                                                            delivering  takeout  via  A.I.-
            and deliver your groceries.                                                                                         controlled robots on a few
            No time to plan a meal? An                                                                                          college  campuses  nation-
            ever-expanding list of meal                                                                                         wide. No need to even say
            kit  services  including  Blue                                                                                      hi to a delivery guy, which
            Apron  and  HelloFresh  will   This  product  display  image  released  by  HelloFresh  shows  ingredients  offered  from  their  home   may present problems of its
            send  you  premeasured  in-  delivery meal kits.                                                                    own. If that isn't enough to
            gredients to whip up a va-                                                                         Associated Press  concern you, try this: In his
            riety of recipes — complete                                                                                         work  studying  what  "com-
            with  step-by-step,  photo-  professor  and  sports  dieti-  chair of the department of  been  spent  driving  to  the  fort  food"  really  is,  Jordan
            enhanced  instructions.  All  tian at Quinnipiac Universi-  anthropology at Lawrence  grocery  store  and  rushing  Troisi  has  found  that  the
            that  for  around  $8  to  $10  ty, doesn't see the situation  University in Appleton, Wis-  through the aisles is instead  psychological  comfort  we
            per person.                  as black and white: "It de-  consin, says food is both bi-  spent  purposefully  simmer-  get  from  foods  has  to  do
            No  time  to  cook?    Get  pends  on  what  the  base-   ological  and  cultural,  and  ing a sauce, a home cook  with  the  social  meaning
            a  week's  worth  of  frozen  line was before."           the  approach  to  it  needs  could  become  more  con-   we attach to it. We're com-
            meals  delivered  courtesy  If  you're  someone  who   to take both into account.      nected  to  their  food.  And  forted  by  spaghetti  and
            of Home Chef, Freshly or a  never  cooks  and  eats  out  "It  fulfills  biological  needs  if a meal kit includes every-  meatballs  not  necessarily
            host of other local and na-  at  fast  food  places  all  the  but  is  imbued  with  mean-  thing  premeasured  down  because of the tasty carbs,
            tional services: It's the mod-  time,  ordering  groceries  or  ing  that  makes  it  very  cul-  to  the  last  half-teaspoon  but  because  it's  what  our
            ern  version  of  a  TV  dinner,  meal kits could be a step in  tural  as  well,"  Jenike  says.  of chili powder, White says,  family always ate.
            but  it  tastes  better.  And  if  the right direction    "So  I  could  certainly  see  people  who  find  cooking  "Food  is  a  physiological
            hunger  strikes  and  you  But  "if  it's  taking  you  away  for  some  people  that  get-  intimidating might discover  need  for  humans,"  Trioisi
            need  immediate  gratifica-  from  the  farmer's  market  ting a meal kit allows them  it's actually kind of fun.   says. "As a consequence, it
            tion, you're no longer stuck  and  you  stop  putting  the  to  focus  on  bonding  and  But there are downsides. A  gets  attached  to  so  many
            ordering  a  pizza  or  a  few  basil  plant  in  your  back-  together time  as  they  pre-  growing  number  of  young  other needs that we have,
            containers  of  takeout  Chi-                                                                                       including  feelings  of  safe-
            nese:  Uber  Eats,  DoorDash                                                                                        ty,  feelings  of  connection,
            and GrubHub stand ready                                                                                             feeling a sense that in times
            to  deliver  anything  you                                                                                          of stress, things are going to
            crave.                                                                                                              be OK."
            But  as  people  increasingly                                                                                       But what happens, he won-
            limit  their  involvement  in                                                                                       ders,  to  a  kid  who  doesn't
            meal prep, the question of                                                                                          grow  up  with  any  "family
            how  that  affects  our  per-                                                                                       recipes" because the meal
            sonal connection to food is                                                                                         kits  they  were  raised  on
            debatable.                                                                                                          changed every week?
            "As  we  exist  at  a  greater                                                                                      Last year, HelloFresh began
            distance from where these                                                                                           offering  an  entire  Thanks-
            foods  originated,  we  tend                                                                                        giving dinner in a box and
            to forget — or now, perhaps                                                                                         they've  followed  up  with
            not  even  learn  —  where                                                                                          other  holiday  boxes,  in-
            things  come  from,"  says                                                                                          cluding  one  for  Mother's
            Jason  Seacat,  a  professor                                                                                        Day. Is this the end of family
            of  psychology  at  Western                                                                                         recipes, or is it possible that
            New  England  University,                                                                                           having the basics covered
            who studies the relationship                                                                                        helps home cooks really fo-
            between people and food.                                                                                            cus on making a few fam-
            "This  growing  disconnect                                                                                          ily favorites from scratch as
            not  only  contributes  to  a   In this Feb. 20, 2018, file photo shows the Uber Eats app on an iPhone in Chicago.   holiday side dishes?
            loss for humans, but also for                                                                      Associated Press   Donna   Talarico-Beerman
            our natural world because                                                                                           and  her  husband  Kevin
            greater  disconnect  often                                                                                          tried  ordering  groceries.
            equals less concern for the  yard," White says, these ser-  pare and consume a meal  adults have no idea how to  But  with  their  hectic  work
            natural  environments  that  vices  may  do  more  harm  together.  That  could  be  a  scramble  an  egg  or  cook  schedules,  produce  would
            produce the food."           than  good.  Mark  Jenike,  very appealing option."       rice.  White  often  sees  "stu-  sit in the refrigerator instead
            Dana  White,  an  associate  associate  professor  and  If  an  hour  that  would've  dents that come to college  of being used.q
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