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A32    FEATURE
                     Thursday 23 May 2019
            Why Quebec endlessly beckons those on a bicycle




            By CALVIN WOODWARD                                                                                                  ers  and  several  of  prime
            Associated Press                                                                                                    interest  to  visitors.  Start-
            MONTREAL (AP) — In Mon-                                                                                             ing  at  the  ferry  terminal,
            treal  each  spring,  an  epic                                                                                      the  Promenade  Samuel
            bicycle  festival  demon-                                                                                           de  Champlain  path  going
            strates  how  25,000  people                                                                                        west  borders  the  riverfront
            can let the good times roll                                                                                         for  12  kilometers,  looping
            without bumping into each                                                                                           onto a narrow walkway on
            other too much.                                                                                                     the  bridge  crossing  the  St.
            In Quebec City and its hin-                                                                                         Lawrence and joining with
            terlands,  cyclists  plunge                                                                                         another trail in Levis. The Le-
            into  a  history  shaped  by                                                                                        vis trail offers a spectacular
            French  explorers,  the  Ro-                                                                                        view  of  Quebec  City  and
            man Catholic Church, ab-                                                                                            a chance to return on the
            original  culture  and  British                                                                                     ferry, closing a 30-kilometer
            conquest.  In  Charlevoix,                                                                                          loop. Nature is nearby. The
            an  island  provides  a  per-                                                                                       Jacques-Cartier  trail  runs
            fect loop for lovers of quiet                                                                                       more than 80 kilometers on
            roads  and  eye-candy  vis-                                                                                         stone  dust  through  forest
            tas of mountains you don't                                                                                          and meadow.
            have to climb.               Cyclists get underway in Tour la Nuit, the annual Montreal bicycle festival's night ride, June 3,   ___
            Then there is the south shore   2016. This year, on May 31, the crowd of some 10,000 will bicycle into and around Montreal's   THE RIVER/SEA
            of the St. Lawrence, where   Olympic Stadium as part of the night tour.                                             This  is  where  I  always  go
            the panorama of river, sea,                                                                        Associated Press  back  to,  no  matter  where
            sky and flowers defines the                                                                                         else I go.
            magic of bicycling in Qué-   3,300  miles,  Route  Verte  is  fic and take over the city-  miles) on trails, quiet roads,  On Route Verte #1, spread
            bec  in  ways  that  words  a  handful  to  get  to  know,  island.  The  premier  event,  village  pathways  and  oc-  over  more  than  2,000  kilo-
            cannot.                      requiring  more  time  than  Tour de l'lle on June 2, typi-  casional  paved  shoulders.  meters (1,200 miles) cyclists
            Those  treats  are  mostly  most  people  have  and  cally  draws  25,000  people  Signed  as  Route  Verte  #8,  can  go  along  the  south
            thanks  to  Route  Verte,  more  legs  than  are  under  on  bicycles  and  countless  it meets the standards that  shore  of  the  St.  Lawrence
            Quebec's gift to the cycling  me.  And  the  network  will  more  cheering  them  on  are the hallmark of all des-  for a week or more, seeing
            world.  It's  a  vast  network  be  undergoing  its  largest  from neighborhoods along  ignated  routes  in  the  net-  the river widen going east-
            of  trails  and  bike-friendly  expansion  in  a  decade  the  50-kilometer  (30-mile)  work: Inns with Route Verte  ward  into  the  wild  beauty
            byways  that  is  about  to  with 900 more kilometers.    route.  Music,  dance  and  accreditation  must  offer  of the Gaspe Peninsula un-
            get  another  growth  spurt.  Within   my   geographic  acrobatics (Quebec, home  healthy food choices, safe  til the far shore disappears
            Quebec's     "green    way  range  of  experience  —  to Cirque du Soleil, special-    storage for bikes and tools  and  the  sea,  somewhere,
            stitches together wild plac-  Montreal  east  to  the  Gas-  izes  in  the  circus  arts)  are  while  campgrounds  must  begins.
            es,  pristine  villages  and  a  pesie region and the East-  part of the mix.          make  room  for  cyclists  My  hotspot  is  a  day  ride
            few  buzzy  cities  in  a  rich,  ern  Townships  north  to  a  Before  the  Sunday  ride  even if full.            from  the  river  road  at
            French-flavored tableau.     lake  trail  lined  with  wild  comes Tour la Nuit , which  The  route  perfectly  suits  Notre-Dame-du-Portage
            It's the masterwork of Velo  blueberries  —  there  are  launches  some  10,000  cy-   self-supported  touring.  But  to  Kamouraska  and  back,
            Quebec,  the  bicycling  as-  plenty  of  great  tours.  Here  clists at sunset May 31. This  it's  also  part  of  Velo  Que-  about  70  kilometers  in  all.
            sociation and Route Verte's  are some:                    year,  the  cyclists  will  circle  bec's summer extravagan-  In this wide panorama, the
            steward.                     MONTREAL BIKE FESTIVAL &  inside  Montreal's  Olympic  za this year, the Grand Tour  sky  seems  always  etched
            Since  2013,  I've  gone  to  RAIL TRAIL                  Stadium  for  the  first  time  , a week of fully supported  with  drama,  as  stormy
            Quebec  each  year,  of-     Montreal's  cycling  culture  since  "Chariots  of  Fire"  cycling.                    sheets of rain and shafts of
            ten  several  times  a  year,  turns into a rolling party at  greeted  their  arrival  in  the  ___                 sun sweep over the moun-
            to  sample  more  segments  the Go Bike Montreal Festi-   1980s. "It's the wow moment  QUEBEC CITY & RAIL TRAIL     tains  on  the  other  side,
            of  the  network  and  re-   val, anchored by two fam-    for Tour La Nuit," says Joelle  Quebec's  historic  capital,  the  river  churns  in  hues  of
            turn  to  the  best.  Sprawling  ily-friendly  rides  that  close  Sevigny of Velo Quebec.  like Montreal, has extensive  brown  and  blue,  and  mist
            over  5,300  kilometers  or  downtown  streets  to  traf-  Nearby,  the  offroad  P'tit  bicycle paths for commut-  half swallows islands. q
                                                                      Train  du  Nord  rail  trail  runs
                                                                      230  kilometers  (140  miles)
                                                                      between     the   Montreal
                                                                      outskirts  and  Mont-Laurier
                                                                      on  Route  Verte  #2.  About
                                                                      half  paved,  half  smooth
                                                                      crushed  stone,  the  "little
                                                                      train  of  the  north"  trail  of-
                                                                      fers well-spaced amenities,
                                                                      intriguing inns and a shuttle
                                                                      service.
                                                                      ___
                                                                      THE BLUEBERRY TRAIL
                                                                      Veloroute  des  Bleuets  cir-
                                                                      cles Lac Saint-Jean, a lake
                                                                      so big it resembles the sea.
                                                                      In  late  summer  it  makes
            Cyclists on Velo Quebec's Grand Tour sweep along a trail in the   good  on  its  promise  of
            Eastern Townships, Aug. 1, 2015. More than 1,200 cyclists took   wild blueberries for trailside   A cyclist takes in the St. Lawrence vista at Notre-Dame-du-Por-
            part in the ride, which dipped into Vermont.              scavenging. The lake circuit   tage, Quebec, on Aug. 12, 2015.
                                                     Associated Press                                                                       Associated Press
                                                                      runs for 256 kilometers (160
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