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A32    FEATURE
                   Thursday 11 May 2017
                Mayo, wings, butter: ‘Fake milk’ is the latest food fight




            CANDICE CHOI
             AP Food Industry Writer                                                               association’s    members,    FDA. Gudmundson said he
            NEW YORK (AP) — Is “fake                                                               had sued Just Mayo’s mak-    reached out to the agen-
            milk”  spoiling  the  dairy  in-                                                       er  citing  the  same  issue.   cy  afterward,  but  nothing
            dustry’s image?                                                                        That  lawsuit  was  dropped   came of it.
            Dairy producers are calling                                                            after  the  company  faced   Yoplait   Greek’s   maker,
            for a crackdown on the al-                                                             blowback from the vegan      General  Mills,  says  it  has
            mond, soy and rice “milks”                                                             spread’s supporters.         since made recipe chang-
            they  say  are  masquerad-                                                             The  dressings  and  sauces   es  to  its  yogurts  and  it  no
            ing  as  the  real  thing  and                                                         group wasn’t the only one    longer  uses  milk  protein
            cloud the meaning of milk.                                                             upset by Just Mayo’s name.   concentrate    in   Yoplait
            A  group  that  advocates                                                              The  CEO  of  the  American   Greek.  The  company  had
            for  plant-based  products,                                                            Egg  Board,  which  repre-   also  noted  in  legal  filings
            the  Good  Food  Institute,                                                            sents the egg industry, also   that  the  FDA  said  during
            countered  this  week  by                                                              tried  unsuccessfully  to  get   a  seminar  that  milk  pro-
            asking the Food and Drug                                                               a  consultant  to  stop  the   tein concentrate could be
            Administration to say terms                                                            sale of Just Mayo at Whole   used in yogurt.
            such  as  “milk”  and  “sau-                                                           Foods.                       In  2002,  the  presence  of
            sage”  can  be  used  as                                                               The  revelations  led  to  an   milk  protein  concentrate
            long as they’re modified to                                                            investigation  by  the  U.S.   in  Kraft  Singles  was  also
            make clear what’s in them.                                                             Department of Agriculture.   called  out  in  a  warning
            It’s the latest dispute about                                                          Soon after, the egg indus-   letter from the FDA, which
            what  makes  a  food  au-                                                              try group’s CEO retired ear-  noted  it  was  not  listed  as
            thentic,  many  of  them                                                               lier than expected.          an ingredient in the defini-
            stemming  from  develop-                                                               As  for  Just  Mayo,  the    tion  for  “pasteurized  pro-
            ments  in  manufacturing     This photo provided by Nestle USA shows a package containing   company  worked  out  an   cess  cheese  food.”  Kraft
            practices  and  specialized   DiGiorno pizza and boneless Wyngz.                       agreement with the FDA to    now  labels  the  Singles  as
            diets.                                                                Associated Press  keep its name — with some   a  “pasteurized  prepared
            DiGiorno’s  frozen  chicken                                                            strategic tweaks to its label   cheese product.”
                                                                                                                                WYNGZ, NOT WINGS
                                                                                                   to  make  clear  it  does  not
                                                                      Those products often refer   contain eggs.                “Wyngz”  scored  a  high-
                                                                      to themselves as “soymilk”   STRAINING FOR YOGURT         profile   TV   appearance
                                                                      or  “almondmilk,”  single    It  was  a  milk  protein  con-  not  long  after  DiGiorno
                                                                      words  that  the  dairy  in-  centrate at issue in a law-  launched  frozen  meals
                                                                      dustry says is a way to get   suit over Yoplait Greek.    with  pizza  and  the  bone-
                                                                      around  the  guidelines  for   That  ingredient  isn’t  listed   less chicken pieces in 2011.
                                                                      “milk.”                      in  the  FDA’s  standard  of   “The Colbert Show” called
                                                                      The Plant Based Foods As-    identity  for  yogurt.  What’s   the spelling out as a “gov-
                                                                      sociation, which represents   more, the suit said General   ernment-mandated”  way
                                                                      companies     like   Tofurky
                                                                      and  milk  alternatives,  says
                                                                      standards  of  identity  were
                                                                      created  to  prevent  com-
                                                                      panies  from  passing  off
                                                                      cheaper  ingredients  on
                                                                      customers.  But  the  group
            This Thursday, Feb. 23, 2017, photo shows Yoplait Greek yogurt   says that’s not what soy, al-
            on display at a supermarket in Port Chester, N.Y.         mond and rice milk makers
                                                     Associated Press
                                                                      are trying to do.
                                                                      Those    companies     are
            “wyngz”  were  fodder  for  is  obtained  by  the  “com-  charging  more  money,
            comedian  Stephen  Col-      plete  milking  of  one  or   and  consumers  are  gravi-
            bert.  An  eggless  spread  more healthy cows.” That’s    tating  toward  them,  said
            provoked  the  ire  of  egg  a point the dairy industry is   Michele Simon, the group’s
            producers  by  calling  itself  now emphasizing, with the   executive director.
            “mayo.”  And  as  far  back  support of lawmakers who     The  FDA  says  it  takes  ac-
            as  the  1880s,  margarine  last month introduced leg-    tion  “in  accordance  with   This Feb. 4, 2015, file photo, shows Hampton Creek Foods bottles
                                                                                                   of Just Mayo flavors at their office in San Francisco.
            was dismissed as “counter-   islation  calling  for  the  FDA   public health priorities and                                    Associated Press
            feit butter” by a Wisconsin  to enforce the guidelines.   agency resources.”
            lawmaker.                    “Mammals  produce  milk,     EDIBLE, BUT EGGLESS          Mills  relied  on  the  ingredi-  to  get  around  the  fact
            The  U.S.  actually  spells  out  plants don’t,” said Jim Mul-  The  little-known  Associa-  ent  to  thicken  its  yogurt,   that  they’re  not  made  of
            the required characteristics  hern,  president  of  the  Na-  tion for Dressing and Sauc-  rather  than  straining  it  the   wing  meat.  Colbert  cited
            for a range of products such  tional  Milk  Producers  Fed-  es  showed  its  might  in  a   way  other  Greek  yogurts   a  page  on  the  USDA’s
            as French dressing, canned  eration.                      2014 mayonnaise melee.       are made.                    website  that  said  the  odd
            peas  and  raisin  bread.  It’s  The  federation  says  it  has   The group repeatedly com-  “Not only was it not Greek   spelling  could  be  used  for
            these  federal  standards  of  been trying to get the FDA   plained to the FDA that an   yogurt,  it  wasn’t  yogurt  at   a  product  that  is  “in  the
            identity  that  often  trigger  to  enforce  the  standard   eggless  spread  was  call-  all,”  said  Brian  Gudmund-  shape of a wing or a bite-
            the food fights.             since  at  least  2000  ,  and   ing itself Just Mayo, noting   son, the Minnesota lawyer   size  appetizer  type  prod-
            COW, NUT, BEAN               that  the  lack  of  enforce-  that under the federal rules   who filed the suit.      uct,” but not made entirely
            Though  soy  milk  and  al-  ment  has  led  to  a  prolif-  mayonnaise  is  defined  as   The  case  was  ultimately   from wing meat.
            mond  milk  have  become  eration of imitators playing    having eggs.                 dismissed  by  the  judge,   “No  other  misspellings  are
            commonplace terms, milk’s  “fast and loose” with dairy    Hellmann’s    mayonnaise     who said the matter would    permitted,”  the  website
            standard  of  identity  says  it  terms.                  maker Unilever, one of the   be  better  handled  by  the   says.q
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