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A32 FEATURE
Tuesday 23 July 2019
Wine and waterfalls in the Columbia River Gorge
By SALLY CARPENTER HALE grapes from both regions.
Associated Press COR has won acclaim for
HOOD RIVER, Ore. (AP) — its cabernet franc, mal-
The Columbia River Gorge bec, cabernet franc rose
is a marvel of nature known and Alba white, a blend of
for spectacular waterfalls, gewurztraminer and pinot
scenery and hiking. But it’s gris. We especially liked the
also famous in the world of 2015 cab franc. Picnicking
wine. is welcome in the courtyard
The region’s geology has garden.
given rise to a wine industry Next, we headed back
that’s growing in both num- west and crossed the Co-
ber and reputation, with lumbia to Hood River for
more than 40 wineries with- lunch. The town has a huge
in a 40-mile (60-kilometer) beer scene — Full Sail,
stretch. In 2004, the Colum- pFriem and Double Moun-
bia Gorge was designated tain among the breweries
an American Viticultural — but that tour would have
Area, a wine grape region to wait for another day. We
distinguished by geograph- settled in at Solstice Wood
ic features. Fire Cafe and sampled
Here’s a look at the gorge, some unusual and delicious
the wine region and winer- pizzas, including a cherry
ies, along with what visitors and chorizo pie and one
need to know about the made with local cremini
wildfire that made head- mushrooms.
lines last year. This Aug. 11, 2017 photo shows wine for sale at the Cathedral Ridge Winery in Hood River, Ore., in Of Hood River’s 15 winer-
THE GORGE, THE FALLS AND the Columbia River Gorge. ies, we chose two: Vien-
THE FIRE Associated Press to Wines and Cathedral
The gorge is an 80-mile- generates enough elec- Ridge Winery. Viento’s
long (129-kilometer-long) tricity to power half a mil- winemaker, Rich Cushman,
canyon with dozens of wa- lion homes. We passed the is a Hood River native who
terfalls spilling down tower- Bridge of the Gods, a steel founded the winery in 2007.
ing cliffs. The most famous truss cantilever bridge that Viento sources most of its
is Multnomah Falls, 620 feet leads to Cascade Locks, grapes from several area
high (189 meters). Oregon. vineyards, but the winery
The Columbia River cuts Nearby Stevenson, Wash- grows its own riesling in a
through the gorge on its ington, is home to Skama- vineyard planted by Cush-
way to the Pacific Ocean, nia Lodge, a resort that fea- man in 1981.
forming the boundary be- tures 254 guest rooms, two Viento has earned high
tween Oregon and Wash- restaurants, a golf course, marks for its Verona, a
ington through the Cas- an outdoor zipline and blend of pinot gris, char-
cade Range mountains aerial park, and onsite hik- donnay and sauvignon
north of Mount Hood and ing trails. Stevenson also of- blanc, and for its syrah and
past heavily forested hill- fers many restaurants and sangiovese. We thought
sides and huge boulders. watering holes, such as the the 2014 pinot noir was de-
Interstate 84 on the Oregon Walking Man Brewery, to licious.
side of the river and High- those just passing through. Of the three wineries, Ca-
way 14 on the Washington Deeper into the gorge, thedral Ridge had the larg-
side offer easy access to we passed through White est selection, including sev-
trailheads, viewpoints and This Aug. 11, 2017 photo shows the vineyards at Cathedral Ridge Salmon, Washington, a eral reserve wine options.
rugged parks. Winery in Hood River, Ore., in the Columbia River Gorge. popular spot for white- The winery has won numer-
The windy gorge is also a Associated Press water rafting and kayak- ous awards, primarily for its
favorite spot for wind- and but others like Latourell Falls person. ing on the White Salmon reds. Winemaker Michael
kite-surfers. are open. An updated list Wine tasting was our mis- River. Whimsical street art Sebastiani hails from the fa-
A wildfire burned more of the status of hiking trails sion one day while in Port- and restaurants line its tiny mous California winemak-
than 20,000 acres (8,000 and recreational areas land for a reunion show by main street, including the ing family.
hectares) of the gorge can be found here: https:// my husband Rick’s rock Everybody’s Brewing pub, We were drawn to the
last fall. But little evidence www.fs.usda.gov/recmain/ band. We rented a party with an outside deck and a reserve reds — the 2015
of it can be seen from the crgnsa/recreation. bus and filled it with 16 peo- view of Mount Hood across Daughter’s Rhome, 2015
road, aside from a very few THE WINE REGION ple — college buddies from the river in Oregon. Rhett’s Red, 2014 Rock Star
scorched trees cut down Many of the wineries are around the country and lo- THE WINERIES Red (a blend of cabernet
just east of Multnomah clustered around Hood Riv- cal friends and family. At COR Cellars, in Lyle, sauvignon and syrah), 2014
Falls. The lower viewing er, an hour east of Portland. With a soundtrack of classic Washington, we were and 2015 pinot noir, and
platform at the falls has re- Wine tasting in the region is garage rock, we headed treated to a lovely view 2015 cabernet sauvignon/
opened, though the trail a relaxing contrast to the across the Columbia and of Mount Hood. The win- merlot blend.
to the upper platform re- Willamette Valley south of east on Highway 14, past ery, founded in 2003 by Heading back to Portland,
mains closed. Elsewhere, Portland, where traffic and Wind Mountain, Dog Moun- Luke Bradford, produces we uncorked a couple of
Horsetail and Wahkeena crowded tasting rooms tain — known for its spring 10 wines just west of the bottles and vowed to re-
Falls are also closed and can detract from the ex- wildflowers — and Beacon boundary between the Co- turn soon to explore more
not expected to reopen perience. Tasting fees are Rock State Park. We saw lumbia Gorge and Colum- of the gorgeous gorge and
until at least this summer, comparable, $10-$15 per the Bonneville Dam, which bia Valley AVAs, and uses its wineries.q