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A32    FEATURE
                      Tuesday 23 July 2019

            Wine and waterfalls in the Columbia River Gorge



            By SALLY CARPENTER HALE                                                                                             grapes  from  both  regions.
            Associated Press                                                                                                    COR  has  won  acclaim  for
            HOOD  RIVER,  Ore.  (AP)  —                                                                                         its  cabernet  franc,  mal-
            The  Columbia  River  Gorge                                                                                         bec,  cabernet  franc  rose
            is a marvel of nature known                                                                                         and Alba white, a blend of
            for  spectacular  waterfalls,                                                                                       gewurztraminer  and  pinot
            scenery and hiking. But it’s                                                                                        gris. We especially liked the
            also famous in the world of                                                                                         2015 cab franc. Picnicking
            wine.                                                                                                               is welcome in the courtyard
            The  region’s  geology  has                                                                                         garden.
            given rise to a wine industry                                                                                       Next,  we  headed  back
            that’s growing in both num-                                                                                         west  and  crossed  the  Co-
            ber  and  reputation,  with                                                                                         lumbia  to  Hood  River  for
            more than 40 wineries with-                                                                                         lunch. The town has a huge
            in  a  40-mile  (60-kilometer)                                                                                      beer  scene  —  Full  Sail,
            stretch. In 2004, the Colum-                                                                                        pFriem  and  Double  Moun-
            bia Gorge was designated                                                                                            tain  among  the  breweries
            an  American  Viticultural                                                                                          — but that tour would have
            Area, a wine grape region                                                                                           to wait for another day. We
            distinguished by geograph-                                                                                          settled in at Solstice Wood
            ic features.                                                                                                        Fire  Cafe  and  sampled
            Here’s a look at the gorge,                                                                                         some unusual and delicious
            the wine region and winer-                                                                                          pizzas,  including  a  cherry
            ies, along with what visitors                                                                                       and  chorizo  pie  and  one
            need  to  know  about  the                                                                                          made  with  local  cremini
            wildfire  that  made  head-                                                                                         mushrooms.
            lines last year.             This Aug. 11, 2017 photo shows wine for sale at the Cathedral Ridge Winery in Hood River, Ore., in   Of  Hood  River’s  15  winer-
            THE GORGE, THE FALLS AND     the Columbia River Gorge.                                                              ies,  we  chose  two:  Vien-
            THE FIRE                                                                                           Associated Press  to  Wines  and  Cathedral
            The  gorge  is  an  80-mile-                                                           generates  enough  elec-     Ridge   Winery.   Viento’s
            long   (129-kilometer-long)                                                            tricity  to  power  half  a  mil-  winemaker, Rich Cushman,
            canyon with dozens of wa-                                                              lion homes.  We passed the   is a Hood River native who
            terfalls spilling down tower-                                                          Bridge of the Gods, a steel   founded the winery in 2007.
            ing  cliffs.  The  most  famous                                                        truss cantilever bridge that   Viento  sources  most  of  its
            is Multnomah Falls, 620 feet                                                           leads  to  Cascade  Locks,   grapes  from  several  area
            high (189 meters).                                                                     Oregon.                      vineyards,  but  the  winery
            The  Columbia  River  cuts                                                             Nearby  Stevenson,  Wash-    grows  its  own  riesling  in  a
            through  the  gorge  on  its                                                           ington,  is  home  to  Skama-  vineyard planted by Cush-
            way to the Pacific Ocean,                                                              nia Lodge, a resort that fea-  man in 1981.
            forming  the  boundary  be-                                                            tures 254 guest rooms, two   Viento  has  earned  high
            tween  Oregon  and  Wash-                                                              restaurants,  a  golf  course,   marks  for  its  Verona,  a
            ington  through  the  Cas-                                                             an  outdoor  zipline  and    blend  of  pinot  gris,  char-
            cade  Range  mountains                                                                 aerial park, and onsite hik-  donnay  and  sauvignon
            north  of  Mount  Hood  and                                                            ing trails. Stevenson also of-  blanc, and for its syrah and
            past  heavily  forested  hill-                                                         fers  many  restaurants  and   sangiovese.  We  thought
            sides and huge boulders.                                                               watering holes, such as the   the 2014 pinot noir was de-
            Interstate 84 on the Oregon                                                            Walking  Man  Brewery,  to   licious.
            side  of  the  river  and  High-                                                       those just passing through.  Of  the  three  wineries,  Ca-
            way 14 on the Washington                                                               Deeper  into  the  gorge,    thedral Ridge had the larg-
            side  offer  easy  access  to                                                          we  passed  through  White   est selection, including sev-
            trailheads,  viewpoints  and   This Aug. 11, 2017 photo shows the vineyards at Cathedral Ridge   Salmon,   Washington,   a   eral  reserve  wine  options.
            rugged parks.                Winery in Hood River, Ore., in the Columbia River Gorge.   popular  spot  for  white-  The winery has won numer-
            The  windy  gorge  is  also  a                                        Associated Press  water  rafting  and  kayak-  ous awards, primarily for its
            favorite spot for wind- and  but others like Latourell Falls  person.                  ing  on  the  White  Salmon   reds.  Winemaker  Michael
            kite-surfers.                are  open.  An  updated  list  Wine  tasting  was  our  mis-  River.  Whimsical  street  art   Sebastiani hails from the fa-
            A  wildfire  burned  more  of the status of hiking trails  sion one day while in Port-  and restaurants line its tiny   mous  California  winemak-
            than  20,000  acres  (8,000  and    recreational   areas  land for a reunion show by  main  street,  including  the   ing family.
            hectares)  of  the  gorge  can be found here: https://    my  husband  Rick’s  rock  Everybody’s  Brewing  pub,     We  were  drawn  to  the
            last  fall.  But  little  evidence  www.fs.usda.gov/recmain/  band.  We  rented  a  party  with an outside deck and a   reserve  reds  —  the  2015
            of it can be seen from the  crgnsa/recreation.            bus and filled it with 16 peo-  view of Mount Hood across   Daughter’s  Rhome,  2015
            road, aside from a very few  THE WINE REGION              ple — college buddies from  the river in Oregon.          Rhett’s Red, 2014 Rock Star
            scorched  trees  cut  down  Many  of  the  wineries  are  around the country and lo-   THE WINERIES                 Red  (a  blend  of  cabernet
            just  east  of  Multnomah  clustered around Hood Riv-     cal friends and family.      At  COR  Cellars,  in  Lyle,   sauvignon and syrah), 2014
            Falls.  The  lower  viewing  er, an hour east of Portland.  With a soundtrack of classic  Washington,   we   were   and  2015  pinot  noir,  and
            platform at the falls has re-  Wine tasting in the region is  garage  rock,  we  headed  treated  to  a  lovely  view   2015  cabernet  sauvignon/
            opened,  though  the  trail  a  relaxing  contrast  to  the  across  the  Columbia  and  of  Mount  Hood.  The  win-  merlot blend.
            to  the  upper  platform  re-  Willamette  Valley  south  of  east  on  Highway  14,  past  ery,  founded  in  2003  by   Heading back to Portland,
            mains  closed.  Elsewhere,  Portland, where traffic and  Wind Mountain, Dog Moun-      Luke  Bradford,  produces    we  uncorked  a  couple  of
            Horsetail  and  Wahkeena  crowded        tasting   rooms  tain — known for its spring  10  wines  just  west  of  the   bottles  and  vowed  to  re-
            Falls  are  also  closed  and  can  detract  from  the  ex-  wildflowers — and Beacon  boundary between the Co-     turn  soon  to  explore  more
            not  expected  to  reopen  perience.  Tasting  fees  are  Rock  State  Park.  We  saw  lumbia Gorge and Colum-      of the gorgeous gorge and
            until  at  least  this  summer,  comparable,  $10-$15  per  the Bonneville Dam, which  bia  Valley  AVAs,  and  uses   its wineries.q
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