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A32    FEATURE
                    Thursday 27 June 2019

            Revamped museum takes new look at Belgium’s colonial past



            By RAF CASERT                                                                                                       pulsed by the old museum.
            Associated Press                                                                                                    When      Congolese-born
            TERVUREN,  Belgium  (AP)                                                                                            Aime  Enkobo  moved  to
            —  For  decades,  Belgian                                                                                           Brussels  and  wanted  to
            schoolchildren  had  come                                                                                           show  his  children  his  heri-
            to the Africa Museum near                                                                                           tage, he came to the Afri-
            Brussels  to  marvel  at  the                                                                                       caMuseum.
            stuffed animals, drums, ritu-                                                                                       “For me it was to show them
            al masks and minerals that                                                                                          our culture. What artists did,
            glowed  in  the  darkness  of                                                                                       created,  the  aesthetics,
            vast cellars. Old colonialists                                                                                      to  explain  that.  It  is  what
            lounged for languid lunch-                                                                                          interested  me.  It  was  not
            es,  reminiscing  about  their                                                                                      the  images  that  showed
            glorious past.                                                                                                      that  whites  were  superior
            Hidden out of sight was the                                                                                         to blacks .... My kids asked
            dark  side  of  colonialism  in                                                                                     me  no  questions  on  that,”
            Belgian  Congo  —  the  kill-                                                                                       Enkobo said.
            ings,  the  sepia  photos  of                                                                                       Still,  controversy  is  increas-
            Congolese  whose  hands                                                                                             ingly commonplace — and
            were hacked off purely out                                                                                          it  has  come  from  Belgians
            of petty retribution.                                                                                               as  well  as  the  Congolese
            Not anymore. The museum,                                                                                            diaspora here.
            long called the last colonial                                                                                       Critics  have  increasingly
            museum in the world, is re-                                                                                         questioned  street  names
            opening on Saturday after    Museum director Guido Gryseels, left, looks out from the new visitor center onto the original Africa   honoring  colonialists,  and
            more  than  10  years  spent   Museum in Tervuren, Belgium, Friday, Aug. 3, 2018.                                   statues  have  been  giv-
            revamping  the  building                                                                           Associated Press  en  explanatory  plaques
            and overhauling its dated,  the  new  exhibition  space,  ing  debates  on  art  restitu-  el on colonial exploitation.  highlighting   the   death
            one-sided approach to his-   while  many  statues  rep-   tion  and  disagreements  After Leopold handed over  and  destruction  colonial-
            tory.                        resenting  the  most  deni-  among  researchers  and  Congo to the Belgian state,  ism  spawned.  A  sculpture
            It’s been a huge challenge  grating,  clichéd  views  of  the  African  diaspora.  “The  the  tiny  nation  continued  of  Leopold  II  has  had  its
            for director Guido Gryseels,  the Congolese have been  king tends to go to events  to hold sway over an area  bronze hand chopped off,
            who  has  to  put  Belgium’s  rounded up into a window-   where consensus reigns,” a  80 times its size half a world  and another was targeted
            colonial abuse in its context  less room.                 palace official said.        away,  until  independence  with rude graffiti last year.
            in  the  very  museum  that  Still,  the  palatial  1910  mu-  Gryseels maintains that his-  in 1960.               A  lot  of  work  is  left.  “You
            the chief perpetrator of the  seum is a protected monu-   tory  has  its  place,  but  he  Colonialists  have  long  re-  won’t  find  a  town  or  city
            horrors of Congo had built  ment,  and  erasing  all  the  says  he’s  not  an  apologist  garded  the  museum  as  a  in  Belgium,  where  you
            for his own glory. Worse, the  fingerprints of the king and  for colonialism or Belgium’s  haven  of  nostalgia.  “For  don’t  have  a  colonial
            culprit  was  a  former  mon-  perfidious  glorification  of  suppression of Congo.    them,  this  is  their  home  street name, monument or
            arch — Leopold II — whose  colonialism  was  never  an  “It’s immoral. It’s based on  and they are very nostalgic  plaque.  It  is  everywhere,”
            dark  legacy  has  long  re-  option.  Leopold’s  double-  the  military  occupation  of  about this place,” Gryseels  said  activist  and  historian
            mained  shielded  from  full  L anagram is still plastered  a  country.  It’s  based  on  said.  They  see  Belgium’s  Jean-Pierre Laus.
            scrutiny.                    on walls and ceilings as the  racism.  It  is  based  on  the  role  in  Congo  as  benign:  He was instrumental in get-
            With the museum’s reopen-    defiant stamp of a bygone  exploitation  of  resources,”  building   roads,   provid-  ting one of the first explana-
            ing, “we provide the critical  era,   and   gold-lettered  he  said  amid  crates,  lad-  ing  health  care,  spread-  tory plaques next to a Leo-
            view  of  the colonial  past,”  panels  still  lionize  “Belgium  ders and protective foil dur-  ing  Christianity  and  giving  pold  statue  in  the  town  of
            Gryseels  said  in  an  inter-  offering civilization to Con-  ing the final stages of reno-  Congo a standard of living  Halle, just south of Brussels,
            view.  “We  try  to  provide  go.”                        vation.                      few others in Africa had at  almost  a  decade  ago.  In-
            the Africa view of coloniza-  The Royal Palace said that  “I  must  say  that  in  recent  the time.                stead of glorifying the mon-
            tion.”                       King Philippe will not attend  years the dialogue has be-  “They’re a bit disappointed  arch, it now reads: “the rub-
            A Congolese artist’s statue  Saturday’s      ceremonial  come  more  difficult.  The  about the critical view,” he  ber and ivory trade, which
            receives  pride  of  place  in  opening,  citing  continu-  younger  generations  are  said.                        was  largely  controlled  by
                                                                      far more militant,” Gryseels  It’d  be  wrong  to  assume  the King, took a heavy toll
                                                                      said. “What they say is: ‘The  that  all  Africans  were  re-  on Congolese lives.”q
                                                                      proof of the pudding will be
                                                                      in the eating’.”
                                                                      Leopold’s ruthless early rule
                                                                      over  Congo  from  1885  to
                                                                      1908 is notorious for its bru-
                                                                      tality when the Congo Free
                                                                      State  was  practically  his
                                                                      personal fiefdom.
                                                                      American    writer   Adam
                                                                      Hochschild  alleged  in  his
                                                                      1998  book  “King  Leop-
                                                                      old’s  Ghost”  that  Leop-
                                                                      old  reigned  over  the  mass
                                                                      death of 10 million Congo-
                                                                      lese. In fiction, Belgian Con-
            A sculpture called the ‘Leopard Man’, second left, is stored with   go provided the backdrop
            others in a cavernous room at the Africa Museum in Tervuren,   for “Heart of Darkness,” Jo-  A stuffed elephant on display in the halls of the Africa Museum
            Belgium, Friday, Aug. 3, 2018.                            seph Conrad’s classic nov-   in Tervuren, Belgium, Thursday, July 12, 2018.
                                                     Associated Press                                                                      Associated Press
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