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A32    FEATURE
                        Monday 8 July 2019

            Psychedelic tourism thrives in Peru despite recent killing



            By FRANKLIN BRICENO                                                                    ties  throughout  the  Ama-  But  Grob  adds  that  there
            Associated Press                                                                       zon basin, mostly in religious  are risks in taking the plant,
            NUEVO  EGIPTO,  Peru  (AP)                                                             rituals.                     especially  in  places  where
            —  Sitting  on  a  mattress                                                            The gringo trail to the spiri-  there  is  no  medical  facili-
            strewn across the floor with                                                           tual El Dorado took off with  ties or proper oversight. The
            white  sheets,  Pamela  Mo-                                                            the  publication  in  1963  plant  contains DMT, an al-
            ronci closes her eyes while                                                            of  “The  Yage  Letters,”  in  kaloid  that  causes  strong
            a  traditional  healer  starts                                                         which  beatnik  poet  Allen  hallucinations.
            to chant in the indigenous                                                             Ginsberg described feeling  “Some  retreat  centers  are
            Shipibo language.                                                                      like  a  “snake  vomiting  out  well  trained  and  have  a
            In a straw hut, engulfed by                                                            the  universe”  after  trying  good sense of ethics, but in
            the  nighttime  cacophony                                                              ayahuasca  in  the  rainfor-  others that may not be the
            of  the  Amazon  rainforest,                                                           est  a  short  boat  ride  from  case,” said Grob.
            a shaman inhales a potent                                                              Nuevo Egipto.                Although  the  ayahuasca
            tobacco  from  a  pipe  and                                                            More  recently,  it  has  won  ritual was declared part of
            blows  smoke  on  Moronci’s   In this May 6, 2018 photo, Shaman Pablo Flores concentrates   devotees  among  the  rich  Peru’s  national  heritage  in
            head  to  cleanse  her,  be-  after drinking ayahuasca during a session in Nuevo Egipto, a   and famous despite its rep-  2008,  there  are  no  estab-
            fore she takes her place in   remote village in the Peruvian Amazon.                   utation for an all-consuming  lished guidelines for how a
            a  sacred  ayahuasca  cer-                                            Associated Press  high that for many people  ceremony  should  be  con-
            emony.  He  offers  the  Ital-  a  revered  traditional  heal-  or  Pucallpa,  aggressive  leads  to  violent  vomiting  ducted  or  any  agency
            ian  woman  a  plastic  cup  er.  Peruvian  investigators  English-speaking  touts  of-  and diarrhea. Troubled ac-  in  charge  of  overseeing
            with three ounces of a bit-  later concluded Woodroffe  fering  ayahuasca  cere-       tress  Lindsay  Lohan  credits  people  who  carry  out  the
            ter,  muddy  brew  made  of  shot  healer  Olivia  Arevalo  monies  greet  tourists  liter-  ayahuasca  with  changing  rituals.  Moronci,  the  Ital-
            psychedelic vines. Moronci  with  a  gun  he  purchased.  ally  as  they  come  off  the  her  life,  singer  Sting  said  it  ian  tourist,  says  the  spate
            drinks it, coughs and smiles  Now they are investigating  boat,  while  in  indigenous  was his only ever “genuine  of ayahuasca deaths, and
            despite its unpleasant taste.  what could have led him to  markets  a  liter-size  bottle  religious  experience,”  and  the killing of Woodroffe, did
            “There is a really strong en-  pull the trigger.          of  the  powerful  tea  fetch-  Netflix  is  currently  distrib-  not  cause  her  much  con-
            ergy  here,”  she  says,  be-  “The most  likely  scenario  is  es  as  much  as  $100.  “The  uting  two  documentaries  cern.
            fore  falling  asleep,  amid  that  it  was  a  dispute  over  Amazon  has  long  had  a  on  the  mind-tripping  drink  The  30-year-old  business-
            the chirping of crickets and  money,”  says  Ricardo  Ji-  frontier  economy,  based  with big-name backers like  woman  said  she  first  tried
            thundering rain.             menez,  the  lead  prosecu-  on  the  exploitation  of  its  Leonardo  DiCaprio  and  ayahuasca     in   Italy   as
            Every  year  thousands  of  tor in the case.              natural  resources,”  said  Chelsea  Handler.  Charles  she     fought   depression,
            tourists visit jungle retreats in  In 2015, a former Goldman  Ana  Echazu-Boschemeier,  Grob,  a  psychiatrist  at  the  and  credits  it  with  “find-
            Peru, Colombia and Ecua-     Sachs analyst got hold of a  an  anthropology  professor  Harbor-UCLA Medical Cen-     ing  truths”  about  herself
            dor to try ayahuasca, a hal-  knife during an ayahuasca  at the Federal University of  ter in Los Angeles who has  that  traditional  meditation
            lucinogenic  elixir  made  of  ceremony at a retreat cen-  Rio Grande do Norte in Bra-  studied  ayahuasca,  says  could  not  provide.  There
            native plants that is thought  ter in Peru and attacked a  zil, who spent more than a  that  the  plants’  effects  she  met  a  shaman  from
            to heal some mental illness-  Canadian  man  who  was  year in the jungle research-    are mostly benign. In 1993,  Spain  who  told  her  about
            es.  But  while  Moronci  and  with  him.  He  was  killed  by  ing ayahuasca and its uses.  he  conducted  a  study  on  retreat centers in Peru.
            others say they have found  the  Canadian,  who  acted  “To some extent, shamanic  ayahuasca  users  in  Brazil,  In  a  recent  ritual  in  Nuevo
            peace and enlightenment,  in  self-defense.  In  2014,  tourism  is  replicating  this  finding  that  subjects  who  Egipto  led  by  local  sha-
            for a few seekers the expe-  a  19-year-old  British  man  savage  logic  of  extractive  attended  a  church  that  man Pablo Flores, Moronci
            rience has been fatal.       died  in  Colombia  after  he  industries  where  people  reveres  ayahuasca  were  said she relived happy mo-
            And  as  more  Westerners  passed out during an aya-      and nature have little pro-  mentally healthy.            ments  of  her  childhood,
            seek out the legendary cu-   huasca ritual.               tection,” she said.          “A  number  of  our  subjects  and  also  realized  she  had
            rative,  commercialization  Anthropologists  say  the  re-  Ayahuasca  in  the  Que-   had  strong  histories  of  al-  health  problems  that  had
            has  taken  over  as  profit-  gion’s  history  of  violence  chua language means the  cohol  abuse  that  entirely  to be addressed.
            seeking  impostors  pop  up  and  lawlessness  could  be  vine of the soul — or death,  ceased,”  after  they  joined  “The plant told me I had a
            among the dozens of legiti-  replicating  itself  in  the  vir-  depending  on  the  trans-  the  Uniao  do  Vegetal  problem in my ovaries that I
            mate  ayahuasca  centers  tually  unregulated  aya-       lation  —  and  it  has  been  church and took ayahuas-   was not aware of, and that
            that  have  emerged  over  huasca  industry.  In  back-   used for hundreds of years  ca  twice  a  month,  Grob  is  what  I  am  working  on
            the years.                   water  towns  like  Iquitos  by  indigenous  communi-     said.                        now,” she said.q
            Over  the  past  decade  at
            least 11 tourists have been
            killed  in  incidents  linked
            to  traditional  medicine  in
            South  America,  according
            to  news  reports,  including
            a California man who was
            buried  secretly  by  a  sha-
            man  after  he  died  in  an
            ayahuasca  ceremony  in
            Peru.  The  latest  killing  took
            place in April, not far from
            the Peruvian village of Nue-
            vo Egipto, where Sebastian
            Woodroffe,  a  41-year-old
            Canadian  man  studying
            medicinal plants, was blud-
            geoned  in  broad  daylight   In  this  May  6,  2018  photo,  Italian  national  Pamela  Moronci   In this May 4, 2018 photo, supplies for ayahuasca and Santeria
                                         attends  an  ayahuasca  session  in  Nuevo  Egipto,  at  a  remote
                                                                                                   rituals, are displayed for sale in the Pucallpa market, deep in the
            by an angry mob in retalia-  village in the Peruvian Amazon.                           Amazonian jungle of Peru.
            tion for him allegedly killing                                        Associated Press                                          Associated Press
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