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A32    FEATURE
                      Friday 15 March 2019
            Cambodian genocide documented in victims' preserved clothes



            By SOPHENG CHEANG and                                                                                               to  identify  it  for  inventory,
            GRANT PECK,                                                                                                         "then  just  to  surface  clean
            Associated Press                                                                                                    carefully with a vacuum or
            PHNOM  PENH,  Cambodia                                                                                              a  soft  brush,  and  then  the
            (AP)  —  As  a  leader  in  the                                                                                     dirt can be saved as part of
            field of textile conservation,                                                                                      the record and some of the
            Julia  Brennan  has  worked                                                                                         surface soiling will be loos-
            to  preserve  many  glamor-                                                                                         ened."
            ous  and  historic  articles  of                                                                                    Treatment   doesn't   end
            clothing,  from  a  kimono                                                                                          there. In tropical places like
            presented to Babe Ruth, to                                                                                          Cambodia, there's a lot of
            singer James Brown's jump-                                                                                          mildew  and  mold  as  well
            suit,  to  a  British  aristocrat's                                                                                 as live insects to deal with.
            coronation gown.                                                                                                    To try to protect the mate-
            Her  profession,  however,                                                                                          rial  for  the  long  term,  it  is
            has  also  brought  her  into                                                                                       put into "micro climates" in
            contact  with  humanity's                                                                                           which the relative humidity
            darkest  moments,  includ-                                                                                          can  be  reduced.  Brennan
            ing  genocides  in  Rwanda                                                                                          said  she  developed  this
            and Cambodia.                                                                                                       system  during  her  work  in
            Brennan  recently  began                                                                                            Rwanda, putting the items
            a project at the Tuol Sleng   In this Feb. 5, 2018, photo, leading textile conservationist Julia Brennan holds a scarf from a victim   in  dry  storage  boxes  with
            Genocide Museum in Cam-      of the former Khmer Rouge as she inspects artifacts at the Tuol Sleng Genocide Museum in Phnom   desiccants,  pellets  normal-
            bodia's   capital,   Phnom   Penh, Cambodia.                                                                        ly  used  in  the  agriculture
            Penh,  where  the  Khmer                                                                           Associated Press  industry.
            Rouge in the late 1970s tor-                                                                                        Kho Chenda, a 28-year-old
            tured  as  many  as  17,000  2014.                        care for them.               Brennan,  who  since  1996  staff member at Tuol Sleng,
            men, women and children  The  59-year-old  Brennan  Brennan worked on a simi-          has had her own company,  has  taken  Brennan's  pres-
            before killing them. The mu-  was born to American par-   lar project for the past two  Caring for Textiles, in Wash-  ervation  lessons  to  heart.
            seum's  macabre  artifacts  ents  in  Indonesia,  where  years  in  Rwanda,  where  ington, D.C., made a similar  She said what she's learned
            include torture devices and  her  father  was  on  a  Jesuit  long-standing  rivalries  be-  point during an interview at  is vital because of the mu-
            displays of skulls.          scholarship  teaching  at  tween  two  tribes  led  to  Tuol Sleng.                    seum's mission to teach the
            The  most  haunting  display  universities  and  doing  re-  the killings of an estimated  "You're not going to neces-  horrific legacy of the Khmer
            comprises  photo  portraits  search.  She  was  raised  in  800,000  people  in  1994.  sarily cry or have memories  Rouge.
            that  were  kept  as  part  of  northern  Thailand,  where  She  helped  to  preserve  when  you  see  a  skull,  but  "If that clothing gets too old
            the   meticulous    record-  her  father  worked  for  the  clothing  at  the  Nyamata  when you see a skirt that's  and worn out, then the evi-
            keeping  ordered  by  Tuol  U.S. government, and when  church,  where  more  than  the  same  pattern  as  your  dence it offers will be gone,
            Sleng's Khmer Rouge com-     he later worked on a Euro-   10,000 people were slaugh-   mother's, then  that's  going  and  when  you  talk  to  the
            mander,  who  in  2012  was  pean  Union  arms  control  tered as they sought shelter  to  bring  these  memories  younger  generation,  they
            sentenced  to  life  in  prison  project in Cambodia, Bren-  from marauding mobs. The  that  are  so  palpable,  and  will  not  believe  you,"  she
            for  crimes  against  human-  nan  became  acquainted  church  is  now  a  memorial  this is so powerful," she said.  said.
            ity, murder and torture.     with that country's culture.  site, with the clothing an in-  Less  is  more  in  conserva-  Kong Kuntheary, another of
            But  only  a  small  amount  Brennan  was  keenly  inter-  tegral part of its exhibition.  tion, according to Brennan,  Brennan's students, echoed
            of  victims'  clothing  is  dis-  ested in the Tuol Sleng proj-  The  power  of  clothing  in  "because we want to keep  the sentiment.
            played;  most  was  stowed  ect,  and  the  U.S.  Embassy  documenting  genocide  is  the  associated  dirt  and  "This  clothing  is  really  im-
            away  in  nooks  and  cran-  in  Phnom  Penh  eventually  widely  recognized  by  ex-  stains and particles as part  portant  evidence,  so  we
            nies,  untouched  since  the  gave  a  $55,000  grant  to  perts. The collection at the  of the context and informa-  have to preserve it to make
            museum  was  established  support it.                     Auschwitz-Birkenau     Me-   tion of the artifact."       sure that even in 100 or 200
            in  1980.  Museum  director  She  then  began  her  work  morial  and  Museum  in  Po-  So for Tuol Sleng's artifacts,  years, it will not have disap-
            Chhay Visoth felt it was ur-  to jump-start the preserva-  land  includes  390  striped  she  said  she  has  been  peared,"  said  the  52-year-
            gent  to  register  and  pre-  tion  of  3,000-5,000  articles  inmates'  uniforms  and  246  teaching  half  a  dozen  old  employee  of  the  Na-
            serve  these  holdings,  and  of  prisoners'  clothing  and  Jewish  prayer  shawls,  ac-  Cambodian   colleagues  tional  Museum  in  Phnom
            he sought Brennan's help in  train  Cambodian  staff  to  cording to Pawel Sawicki, a  to  photograph  a  piece  Penh.q
                                                                      press officer for the memo-
                                                                      rial.
                                                                      The United States Holocaust
                                                                      Memorial Museum in Wash-
                                                                      ington, D.C., holds a variety
                                                                      of items of clothing as well.
                                                                      One of the most striking ex-
                                                                      hibits is of 4,000 shoes from
                                                                      some  of  the  victims  of  the
                                                                      Majdanek     concentration
                                                                      camp in Poland.
                                                                      "The  exhibit  very  simply
                                                                      shows  the  magnitude  of
                                                                      Nazi  murder  while  simulta-
                                                                      neously allowing the viewer
            In this Feb. 5, 2018, photo, a tourist views piles of clothing from   to  individualize  the  horror,"   In this April 9, 2015, file photo, tourists view portraits of victims ex-
            the victims executed by the Khmer Rouge regime at the Tuol   Jane Klinger, the Holocaust   ecuted by the Khmer Rouge regime at the Tuol Sleng Genocide
            Sleng Genocide Museum in Phnom Penh, Cambodia.            museum's  chief  conserva-   Museum in Phnom Penh, Cambodia.
                                                     Associated Press  tor, said in an email.                                               Associated Press
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