Page 32 - ARUBA TODAY

A32 FEATURE
Thursday 16 May 2019
Basking in the Tuscan Sun

By ANNE D’INNOCENZIO We first visited a local small
Associated Press winery called Leuta. Then,
CORTONA, Italy (AP) — Af- we went to Montepulcia-
ter my breast cancer di- no, where we visited the
agnosis and as I was going family-run Ercolani winery’s
through what would be wine shop and then toured
more than a year of treat- its underground wine cel-
ments that included che- lars and its medieval mu-
motherapy and radiation, seum — and then sampled
I vowed I would return to its wine with cheese and
Italy. Both sets of my grand- salami. On the days to our-
parents emigrated from selves, we wandered the
there, and I always turned medieval streets of Cor-
to Italy as a source of com- tona’s center, and spent
fort. some time at the Etruscan
At first, I wasn’t sure what museum. In Assisi, we visited
part of Italy I would travel. the Basilica of St. Francis,
The last time I was there where we saw the famous
was in 1998. But when my Giotto frescos.
sister and brother-in-law Every meal was an epi-
invited me for a one-week curean feast. Among the
stay at a villa in Cortona in highlights; eating pici pasta
Tuscany, I knew my plans This Sept. 10, 2018 photo shows a view from the top of medieval hill town Cortona, in the province at La Loggetta, overlook-
were set. of Arezzo in the Tuscany region of Italy. ing the main square in Cor-
My plan was to spend a Associated Press tona, sampling the massive
week in Rome with a friend. relatives on my mom’s group of residents including and outdoor dining areas. seafood platter at Mor-
Then, I would join my sister side who lived in the Siena American-born chef Ryan Location is key. Our villa, set gan’s, which overlooked
and brother-in-law and area. I hadn’t seen them Hanley and his Italian wife apart from the main road, Lake Tresimano, and tast-
their friends on the sec- since 1984, and we had lost Debora Mazzierli; we visited was about seven miles to ing the sumptuous zucchini
ond leg of the trip. I had touch over the years after their centuries-old Tuscan the town center. Cortona flower appetizer at Osteria
never been to Cortona, my grandfather and great stone home for cooking is about an hour drive to del Teatro in Cortona. In As-
the walled medieval hilltop uncle in the United States classes. key medieval hill towns like sisi, I had a delicious melon
town popularized by Fran- passed away. We stayed at the villa Il Assisi and Montepulciano, and prosciutto salad at Le
ces Mayes’ memoir “Un- But my experience was be- Barattino, which had a home of the Vino Nobile Terrazze di Properzio, which
der the Tuscan Sun,” later yond what I expected. By swimming pool, washing wines. And you could take offered breathtaking pan-
made into a movie. We staying at the villa, I was machine, satellite TV and a train from Cortona to Flor- oramic views of the town.
would use Cortona, nestled able to have a deeper un- free Wi-Fi connections. It ence. One of the most intimate
near the border of the Um- derstanding of the Tuscan rented for little over $800 Every day, we looked for- food experiences? The
bria region, as our base culture and live like a Tus- a night and sleeps 12 and ward to a new activity, cooking class at the home
and then travel to different can resident. We shopped is managed by Cortona- some we planned on our of Hanley and Mazzierli.
parts of Tuscany. for groceries at the local su- based Hill Towns Tours , own; others were planned We cooked such dishes as
I hoped to be inspired by permarket, cooked dinner which manages villas in Tus- by Mazzierli, who also act- zucchini flan, Tuscan ragu
one of Italy’s most roman- at the house, and went on cany. The villa consisted of ed as our tour guide. She sauce, and stuffed toma-
ticized regions, with its cul- walks among the fields of two buildings, which com- gave us a tour of San Gal- toes with rice under their
tural and artistic legacy, its sunflowers, olive trees and bined had six bedrooms. If gano, where we visited the supervision. And we made
post-card views of rolling grapevines. We washed you rent a villa with friends, gothic style 13th century our own pici pasta, made
hills dotted with stone farms clothes and hung them you can cut the cost of the abbey which no longer has with flour, water and olive
and medieval castles, and out to dry (dryers are not rental fees and the car rent- a roof, as well as San Gimi- oil. Mazzierli encouraged us
its food — simple but fla- the norm in Italy). I woke als. And we saved money gnano, known for its many to “eat with our heart, not
vorful. And just maybe, I up to the crowing of roost- by eating in a few nights medieval towers. Another with our stomach.”
could reconnect with my ers. And I met a wonderful using the spacious kitchen day, we went wine tasting. And yes, my sister and I —
armed with a GPS and a
30-year old address my
mom gave us — did con-
nect with our relatives, the
most magical moment of
my trip.
They showed us family
photo albums. My cousin
Antonio showed us a spool
of thread that my grandfa-
ther had given him years
ago from his clothing facto-
ry. To him, it was the symbol
of the American dream.
They called other relatives,
and soon, the house was
packed. The pasta came
This Sept. 9, 2018 photo shows sliced Chianina T-bone with out, followed by sauteed
This Sept. 13, 2018 photo shows Anne D’Innocenzio, standing arugula, parmesan shavings and peppercorns prepared by chicken, pickled zucchini
right, right, and her sister, Donna Burke, posing with their Italian local Tuscan chef Ryan Hanley at Il Barattino, the villa in Cortona, and vanilla gelato. Our
relatives in Torrita di Siena, Italy. Italy. hearts were full.q
Associated Press Associated Press