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A32    FEATURE
                   Wednesday 3 May 2017
                   Wealthy homeowners take on oystermen in war for the coast



            BEN FINLEY                                                                             demand.                      islators haven’t found a so-
            Associated Press                                                                       Farming  techniques  also    lution.
            VIRGINIA BEACH, Va. (AP)                                                               changed.      Traditionally,   Conflicts  also  have  flared
            — Oystermen, pirates and                                                               oysters  are  grown  on  the   up   along   Maryland’s
            police  clashed  violently                                                             bottom of a calm and salty   Patuxent River, the coastal
            more  than  a  century  ago                                                            river  or  bay,  then  harvest-  lagoons  of  Rhode  Island
            over  who  could  collect                                                              ed  with  tongs  or  dredges   and on Martha’s Vineyard
            the  Chesapeake  Bay’s                                                                 that pull them onto boats.   in Massachusetts.
            tasty  and  lucrative  oys-                                                            Now,  fishermen  are  in-    In  Delaware,  a  group  of
            ters. As the shellfish makes                                                           creasingly  using  cages  to   people  who  mostly  own
            a  comeback,  a  modern-                                                               grow  oysters  over  a  two-  vacation  homes  success-
            day oyster war is brewing,                                                             to-three  year  period.  The   fully blocked potential oys-
            this time between wealthy                                                              equipment  keeps  preda-     ter farming along their part
            waterfront  property  own-                                                             tors  away  and  produces    of an inland bay.
            ers  and  working-class  fish-                                                         oysters with a more uniform   “Oftentimes,  affluent  and
            ermen.                                                                                 shape and size, which res-   new members of the com-
            Over  the  past  five  years,                                                          taurants prefer.             munity  have  the  point  of
            oyster production has dou-                                                             But  the  cages  are  often   view that they own the wa-
            bled  on  the  East  Coast,                                                            placed  in  shallower  water   ter in front of them, which
            driven  by  new  farming                                                               closer to shore — and peo-   is really not true,” said Bob
            methods,  cleaner  water                                                               ple’s homes.                 Rheault, executive director
            and  Americans’  growing                                                               Virginia  Beach  is  perhaps   of  the  East  Coast  Shellfish
            taste for orders on the half                                                           ground  zero  for  today’s   Growers  Association.  “We
            shell.  The  resurgence  has                                                           oyster war. The state’s larg-  need  to  win  back  our  so-
            led  to  unprecedented  re-                                                            est city sits at the mouth of   cial license to farm.”
            sistance  from  coastal  Vir-                                                          the Chesapeake Bay. And      Rheault  said  he’s  seen
            ginians who want to main-    In this Thursday, Feb. 23, 2017 photo, oysterman, Chris Ludford,   oysters  thrive  in  the  city’s   these  battles  “up  and
            tain picturesque views from   points out new oyster growth on a wild oyster in his leased oys-  Lynnhaven  River,  a  net-  down  the  East  Coast”  —
            their   waterfront   homes   ter beds on the Lynnhaven River in Virginia Beach, Va.    work  of  bays  and  creeks   even  before  the  crop  be-
            and  has  fueled  a  debate                                          Associated Press  flowing   past   expensive   gan  to  double  five  years
            over access to public wa-                                                              homes.  Lynnhaven  oysters   ago.
            terways.                     ing  number  of  oystermen   industrial  area,”  said  John
            “These people can’t have     —  dressed  in  waders  and   Korte, a retired NASA aero-
            it  all,”  said  Chris  Ludford,   often  tending  cages  of   space engineer in Virginia
            an  oysterman  in  Virginia   shellfish — spoil their views   Beach  who’s  among  resi-
            Beach who sells to nearby    and  invade  their  privacy.   dents  concerned  about
            farm-to-table restaurants.   Residents also worry about   oyster   farming’s   prolif-
            Ludford  said  he  faces     less  access  to  the  water   eration.  “They  may  be  a
            fierce  pushback  along  a   and  the  safety  of  boaters   hundred  feet  away  from
            Chesapeake  Bay  tributary   and swimmers.                someone’s yard.”
            from people with “a $2,000   Low  tides  often  expose    Ben  Stagg,  chief  engineer
            painting  in  their  house  of   oyster  cages,  usually  ac-  at  the  Virginia  Marine  Re-
            some old bearded oyster-     companied  by  markers  or   sources  Commission,  said
                                         warning signs that protrude   the state is poised to break
                                                                      its  record  of  leased  acre-
                                                                      age  for  oyster  growing.
                                                                      But  nearly  30  percent  of
                                                                      more  than  400  new  lease
                                                                      applications  face  opposi-
                                                                      tion,  an  unprecedented
                                                                      number  that  has  led  to  a   In this Friday, April 7, 2017 photo, John J. Korte gestures as he
                                                                      backlog of leases awaiting   points out oyster cages along a sand bar in Back Bay waterway
                                                                      approval.                    in Virginia Beach, Va.                   Associated Press
                                                                      “Occasionally  I  can  re-
                                                                      solve  those  by  having  the
                                                                      parties  get  together  and   are  well-known  for  their   “The industry was there be-
                                                                      adjust the area further off-  salty taste and size.       fore  the  waterfront  man-
                                                                      shore,” Stagg said. “But of-  A  state  task  force  was   sions  were  built,”  Rheault
                                                                      tentimes, I can’t.”          formed  to  find  compro-    added. “But it hasn’t been
                                                                      There  hasn’t  been  this    mise. It recommended giv-    there for this generation.”
                                                                      much  interest  in  oysters   ing  residents  more  power   Ludford, who also works as
                                                                      in  Virginia  since  the  early   to  block  nearby  oyster   a Virginia Beach firefighter,
                                                                      1960s.  Since  then,  disease   leases.  But  the  idea  was   is relatively new to the busi-
                                                                      and  overfishing  took  hold   rejected  by  the  Virginia   ness. He and other relatives
            In this Thursday, Feb. 23, 2017 photo, oysterman Chris Ludford,                        Marine Resources Commis-     started  growing  oysters  in
            works sorting oysters on his lease oyster beds on the Lynnhaven   and growers started to dis-
            River in Virginia Beach, Va.                              appear.                      sion,  with  the  majority  of   2010 after leaving the crab
                                                     Associated Press   Over the last few decades,   commissioners saying state   industry.
                                                                      breeding  programs  have     lawmakers should step in.    On  a  recent  morning,
            man tonging oysters.         from  the  surface.  In  some   produced  more  disease-  Proposals in the Statehouse   Ludford  sorted  through
            “But  they  don’t  want  to   places, cages float.        resistant  and  faster-grow-  have  included  raising  the   cages  as  he  stood  in  the
            look out their window and    “All  of  sudden  you  have   ing  oysters.  The  water’s   cost  of  an  oyster  farming   Lynnhaven River, hundreds
            see the real thing,” he said.  people  working  in  your   cleaner. American palates   lease  from  $1.50  an  acre   of  yards  from  the  nearest
            Homeowners say the grow-     backyard like it was some    have  evolved,  increasing   annually to $5,000. But leg-  home.q
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