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A32    FEATURE
                   Wednesday 24 July 2019

            Pruning olive trees is a balance of art, lore and science


            By      CAIN      BURDEAU                                                                                           At his side was Giuseppe Lo
            Associated Press                                                                                                    Presti, a 41-year-old agron-
            TORRETTA,  Sicily  (AP)  —                                                                                          omist  and  olive  tree  spe-
            Watching  Giovanni  Ca-                                                                                             cialist. Lo Presti stooped to
            ruso  prune  an  olive  tree  is                                                                                    inspect a dead tree.
            like  observing  a  mountain                                                                                        “Look, this is what happens
            climber  decide  how  to                                                                                            when you don’t cut right,”
            reach the next hand-grip in                                                                                         he said. Someone had cut
            a cliff. He chooses his path                                                                                        into  the  trunk,  allowing  in-
            with  deliberation.  He  even                                                                                       fections in.
            wears a helmet.                                                                                                     Caruso moved on, his chain
            With  a  set  of  newfangled                                                                                        saw whirring into action.
            tools  and  theories,  this                                                                                         “The trick is to start from the
            35-year-old  Sicilian  biolo-                                                                                       top;  the  apex  controls  the
            gist  and  self-made  prun-                                                                                         plant,” he said. “By pruning
            ing expert is working on his                                                                                        from the top, you can see
            first  commercial  project  to                                                                                      how much light comes in.”
            introduce  the  central  Ital-                                                                                      The  new  technique  has
            ian  technique  known  as                                                                                           been  met  with  skepticism
            the  “polyconic  vase”  into                                                                                        in  the  region,  Caruso  said.
            Sicily’s  often  remote  and                                                                                        Resting  a  foot  on  a  wall
            overgrown  olive  groves.                                                                                           overlooking  the  orchard,
            This method seeks to sculpt   This  March  13,  2018  photo  shows  reporter  and  writer  Cain  Burdeau  pruning  an  olive  tree  with   he  recounted  how  three
            a tree into separate cone-   shears and a small saw on a property his wife and he bought in Contrada Petraro in the mountains   men  stopped  to  criticize
            shaped sides, thus produc-   of northern Sicily near Castelbuono.                                                   him, an outsider with a nev-
            ing  more  olives  that  are                                                                       Associated Press  er-before-seen  helmet.  He
            easier to pick.              “In this area, no one prunes  polyconic  vase  method.  a branch?                      wears it because he works
            “The   cone’s    geometric  anymore,”  lamented  Gre-     He  now  does  workshops  Add  to  this  the  contradic-  from the ground and could
            shape  allows  the  most  gorio Ugdulena, a descen-       in  Sicily,  where  Ugdulena,  tory  advice  from  friends  be  hit  by  falling  branches
            branches to be exposed to  dant of the family that de-    and I, met him.              and  local  farmers,  all  ea-  — he has a scar to prove it.
            the sun,” Caruso said.       veloped the estate.          It  is  early  April,  the  end  of  ger to tell you what you’re  “They  shouted:  ‘No,  don’t
            I  thought  about  the  over-  His  sister,  Amalia,  remem-  a  long  pruning  season  for  doing  wrong:    “Clear  out  cut  that  one!  Cut  that
            grown  olive  trees  I  bought  bered  when  field  hands  Caruso and also for my wife  the center.” ‘’No, because  branch!  Where  are  you
            a  few  years  ago  with  my  clambered up high ladders  and me. We’d spent much  of  the  heat,  you  should  from?’ It was quite a spec-
            wife  and  two  boys  on  a  to prune, and boys carried  of  the  past  few  months  leave  some  branches  to  tacle,”  he  said.  “Everyone
            property  in  Sicily.  This  was  pots of tar to heal the trees’  learning to prune our long-  shade  the  center.”  ‘’Cut  thinks they’re the best, that
            the  first  year  we  pruned  fresh cuts.                 abandoned,  40-odd  olive  off  branches  that  hang  to  only  they  know  (how  to
            them,  nervously  trying  to  “Many people have aban-     trees.                       the ground.” ‘’No, don’t do  prune).”
            open them up to the sun as  doned their olive orchards,”  For   beginners,   pruning  that.”  ‘’Cut  branches  that  He added: “Pruning is often
            we’d learned from Caruso.    Gregorio said with a sigh.   any  tree  can  be  daunt-   shoot  up.”  ‘’No,  leave  a  seen as an art, but we see it
            Caruso  wielded  a  chain  That’s  why  he  brought  in  ing.  Where  to  start?  What  few shooting up.”           as a technique. People are
            saw  mounted  on  an  ex-    Caruso,  an  energetic  for-  damage  will  I  do  if  I  cut  And on it goes.         often  looking  for  aesthetic
            tendable  pole  and  pow-    mer bersagliere (an elite ri-  this branch instead of that  A look at the trees around  perfection.”  He  paused.
            ered  by  a  battery  pack.  fleman) in the Italian army.  one? Will I kill a tree? Can I  us  made  us  even  more  “There’s  not  a  manual  on
            Pruning  in  Sicily  is  mostly  In the past four years, Caru-  climb into a tree to prune?  confused.   Many   were  how  to  do  it,  each  tree
            done  with  regular  chain  so has trained himself in the  How exactly should I cut off  pruned so heavily that only  must be done individually.”
            saws,  but  also  with  hand-                                                          a  few  limp  twigs  were  left  A good pruner must under-
            saws and shears, as we had                                                             dangling  off  main  branch-  stand how a tree functions
            done.                                                                                  es. The sound of chain saws  so  that  every  cut  makes
            He  moved  on  to  another                                                             was routine.                 sense, Caruso and Lo Presti
            tree.                                                                                  Slowly,  we  gained  con-    agreed.
            “Just looking at it, it seems                                                          fidence  and  speed.  We  When I came home, I saw
            to  be  a  globe,”  he  said.                                                          started  with  obviously  de-  trees that still needed work.
            “We’re going to try to make                                                            pleted dry sections, suckers  But  I  was  glad  we  hadn’t
            it a vase, which means we’ll                                                           and  overlapping  branch-    bought  a  chain  saw  and
            cut out the center.”                                                                   es, and then moved on to  sawed away. We are trying
            And  within  a  few  minutes                                                           what  wasn’t  so  obvious.  It  to  balance  many  things,
            he’d transformed it.                                                                   took hours to prune the big-  including  maintaining  the
            The  location  was  redolent                                                           ger specimens.               aesthetic  beauty  of  long
            of  history:  6,000  olive  trees                                                      Caruso  stood  in  a  section  gnarled   branches,   and
            on  a  former  noble  estate                                                           of the orchard planted with  avoiding  power  tools.  We
            in  Torretta,  a  valley  town                                                         Nocellara  del  belice  trees.  want  to  watch  and  learn
            near  Palermo.  The  sprawl-                                                           They looked nice to me. But  how  our  trees  respond  to
            ing villa, once a monastery,                                                           not to him.                  what we’ve done.
            recalls  a  Sicily  of  opulent                                                        “The trees lack leaves and  Already  this  spring,  we’re
            leisure  and  eccentric  aris-                                                         there  are  many  diseases,”  pleased  at  how  the  now-
            tocrats.                                                                               Caruso said. “Look around:  thinned-out olives are flow-
            To  an  untrained  eye,  the   This April 4, 2018 photo shows Giovanni Caruso pruning a large   It’s  surrounded  by  moun-  ering.
                                         olive  tree  on  a  former  noble  estate  in  Torretta  near  Palermo,
            orchard could appear fine.   Sicily. He is seeking to revive the estate’s 6,000 olive trees – many   tains  so  there  isn’t  any  cir-  Did we play a hand in cre-
            But a lot is going wrong, Ca-  of which are diseased and suffering from poor management –   culation,  and  there’s  a  lot  ating  all  the  lovely  small
            ruso said. Many trees suffer   by pruning them with a central Italian technique known as the   of  humidity.”  Humidity  is  yellow  clusters?  I  like  to
            from neglect and disease.    polyconic vase.                                           bad for olives, he said.     think so.q
                                                                                  Associated Press
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