Page 32 - ARUBA TODAY

A32 FEATURE
Tuesday 16 July 2019

Basking in the Tuscan Sun

was about seven miles to Lake Tresimano, and tast-
the town center. Cortona ing the sumptuous zucchini
is about an hour drive to flower appetizer at Osteria
key medieval hill towns like del Teatro in Cortona. In As-
Assisi and Montepulciano, sisi, I had a delicious melon
home of the Vino Nobile and prosciutto salad at Le
wines. And you could take Terrazze di Properzio, which
a train from Cortona to Flor- offered breathtaking pan-
ence. oramic views of the town.
Every day, we looked for- One of the most intimate
ward to a new activity, food experiences? The
some we planned on our cooking class at the home
own; others were planned of Hanley and Mazzierli.
by Mazzierli, who also act- We cooked such dishes as
ed as our tour guide. She zucchini flan, Tuscan ragu
gave us a tour of San Gal- sauce, and stuffed toma-
gano, where we visited the toes with rice under their
gothic style 13th century supervision. And we made
abbey which no longer has our own pici pasta, made
This Sept. 10, 2018 photo shows a view from the top of medieval hill town Cortona, in the province a roof, as well as San Gimi- with flour, water and olive
of Arezzo in the Tuscany region of Italy. gnano, known for its many oil. Mazzierli encouraged us
Associated Press medieval towers. Another to "eat with our heart, not
day, we went wine tasting. with our stomach."
By ANNE D'INNOCENZIO their friends on the sec- and great uncle in the Unit- We first visited a local small And yes, my sister and I —
Associated Press ond leg of the trip. I had ed States passed away. winery called Leuta. Then, armed with a GPS and a
CORTONA, Italy (AP) — Af- never been to Cortona, But my experience was be- we went to Montepulcia- 30-year old address my
ter my breast cancer di- the walled medieval hilltop yond what I expected. By no, where we visited the mom gave us — did con-
agnosis and as I was going town popularized by Fran- staying at the villa, I was family-run Ercolani winery's nect with our relatives, the
through what would be ces Mayes' memoir "Under able to have a deeper un- wine shop and then toured most magical moment of
more than a year of treat- the Tuscan Sun," later made derstanding of the Tuscan its underground wine cel- my trip. They showed us
ments that included che- into a movie. We would use culture and live like a Tus- lars and its medieval mu- family photo albums. My
motherapy and radiation, Cortona, nestled near the can resident. We shopped seum — and then sampled cousin Antonio showed us
I vowed I would return to border of the Umbria re- for groceries at the local su- its wine with cheese and a spool of thread that my
Italy. Both sets of my grand- gion, as our base and then permarket, cooked dinner salami. On the days to our- grandfather had given him
parents emigrated from travel to different parts of at the house, and went on selves, we wandered the years ago from his cloth-
there, and I always turned Tuscany. walks among the fields of medieval streets of Cor- ing factory. To him, it was
to Italy as a source of com- I hoped to be inspired by sunflowers, olive trees and tona's center, and spent the symbol of the Ameri-
fort. one of Italy's most roman- grapevines. We washed some time at the Etruscan can dream. They called
At first, I wasn't sure what ticized regions, with its cul- clothes and hung them museum. In Assisi, we visited other relatives, and soon,
part of Italy I would travel. tural and artistic legacy, its out to dry (dryers are not the Basilica of St. Francis, the house was packed. The
The last time I was there post-card views of rolling the norm in Italy). I woke where we saw the famous pasta came out, followed
was in 1998. But when my hills dotted with stone farms up to the crowing of roost- Giotto frescos. by sauteed chicken, pick-
sister and brother-in-law and medieval castles, and ers. And I met a wonderful Every meal was an epi- led zucchini and vanilla ge-
invited me for a one-week its food — simple but flavor- group of residents including curean feast. Among the lato. Our hearts were full.
stay at a villa in Cortona in ful. And just maybe, I could American-born chef Ryan highlights; eating pici pasta This trip was more than
Tuscany, I knew my plans reconnect with my relatives Hanley and his Italian wife at La Loggetta, overlook- checking off a bucket list.
were set. on my mom's side who lived Debora Mazzierli; we visited ing the main square in Cor- This was a celebration of
My plan was to spend a in the Siena area. I hadn't their centuries-old Tuscan tona, sampling the massive life. And so, in that spirit,
week in Rome with a friend. seen them since 1984, and stone home for cooking seafood platter at Mor- I promised my relatives I
Then, I would join my sister we had lost touch over the classes. gan's, which overlooked would be back next year.q
and brother-in-law and years after my grandfather We stayed at the villa Il
Barattino, which had a
swimming pool, washing
machine, satellite TV and
free Wi-Fi connections. It
rented for little over $800
a night and sleeps 12 and
is managed by Cortona-
based Hill Towns Tours ,
which manages villas in Tus-
cany. The villa consisted of
two buildings, which com-
bined had six bedrooms. If
you rent a villa with friends,
you can cut the cost of the
rental fees and the car rent-
als. And we saved money
by eating in a few nights This Sept. 9, 2018 photo shows sliced Chianina T-bone with aru-
using the spacious kitchen
This Sept. 13, 2018 photo shows Anne D’Innocenzio, standing gula, parmesan shavings and peppercorns prepared by local
right, right, and her sister, Donna Burke, posing with their Italian and outdoor dining areas. Tuscan chef Ryan Hanley at Il Barattino, the villa in Cortona,
relatives in Torrita di Siena, Italy. Location is key. Our villa, set Italy.
Associated Press apart from the main road, Associated Press