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A32    FEATURE
                 Friday 27 September 2019
            Hardy scientists trek to Venezuela's last glacier amid chaos




            By CHRISTINA LARSON                                                                                                 While  most  tundras  have
            FEDERICA NARANCIO                                                                                                   sparse   vegetation,   the
            Associated Press                                                                                                    paramos is famous for strik-
            MERIDA,  Venezuela  (AP)                                                                                            ing plants called frailejones
            — Blackouts shut off the re-                                                                                        that can be taller than hu-
            frigerators where the scien-                                                                                        mans and resemble a cross
            tists keep their lab samples.                                                                                       between  a  cactus  and  a
            Gas  shortages  mean  they                                                                                          palm tree. These mountain
            sometimes  have  to  work                                                                                           grasslands  also  store  and
            from  home.  They  even  re-                                                                                        release  water  that  sustains
            use  sheets  of  paper  to  re-                                                                                     the  cities  and  croplands
            cord  field  data  because                                                                                          further downslope.
            fresh supplies are so scarce.                                                                                       It's  hard  to  overstate  the
            As their country falls apart,                                                                                       importance of the Andean
            a hardy team of scientists in                                                                                       glaciers  in  maintaining  re-
            Venezuela is determined to                                                                                          gional water cycles.
            transcend the political and                                                                                         "More than  50  million  peo-
            economic turmoil to record   This April 16, 2019 photo shows an aerial view of the Humboldt glacier, in Merida, Venezuela.   ple  in  South  America  rely
            what happens as the coun-                                                                          Associated Press  on  water  provision  from
            try's last glacier vanishes.                                                                                        the  Andes,"  says  Francisco
            Temperatures are warming  best  of  circumstances,  it's  ing melted candle wax.       member who is a physicist  Cuesta,  a  tropical  ecolo-
            faster  at  the  Earth's  higher  no easy trek from the small  Mountain  fieldwork  always  at the University of the An-  gist at the University of the
            elevations than in lowlands,  mountain  town  of  Mérida  is  physically  grueling,  but  des.                      Americas  in  Quito,  Ecua-
            and  scientists  predict  that  to  the  ice  sheet  perched  the  deepening  crisis  in  Not  now,  she  tells  anyone  dor,  who  marvels  at  the
            the glacier — an ice sheet  within  Venezuela's  Sierra  Venezuela since the death  who asks.                       dogged  work  the  team  is
            in  the  Andes  Mountains  —  Nevada  National  Park  at  of  former  president  Hugo  "Climate  change  is  real  doing under such punishing
            could  be  gone  within  two  nearly  16,500  feet  (5,000  Chavez  in  2013  has  trans-  and  has  to  be  document-  conditions.
            decades.                     meters) above sea level.     formed  even  simple  tasks  ed," she says. "We have to  "To  me,  it's  incredible  that
            "If we left and came back  When  Llambí  and  three  into immense hurdles.             be there."                   they are still doing research
            in 20 years, we would have  other  scientists  made  the  "Things  that  you  normally  The    Institute  of  Environ-  there," Cuesta says.
            missed  it,"  says  Luis  Daniel  journey this spring to scout  take  for  granted  for  re-  mental and Ecological Sci-  The region is one of the front
            Llambí,  a  mountain  ecolo-  out  mountain  terrain  for  a  search  —  internet,  gas,  ences  at  the  University  of  lines  of  climate  change.
            gist at the University of the  new research project, they  electricity  —  all  become  the  Andes  was  founded  Glaciers in the tropical An-
            Andes in Mérida.             first rode a cable car, then  scarce   and   unpredict-   50 years ago, in 1969, and  des  have  been  retreating
            Scientists say Venezuela will  walked  a  full  day  to  the  able," Llambí says.      the  scientists  there  see  faster than most other gla-
            be the first country in South  base  camp,  pitching  their  Perhaps  the  hardest  toll  themselves  as  custodians  ciers since scientists began
            America  to  lose  all  its  gla-  tents in drizzling rain.  has  been  watching  many  of long-term data monitor-  keeping detailed records in
            ciers.                       Each day, they then had to  of  their  colleagues  and  ing how temperatures and  the 1970s, because tropical
            Throughout history, glaciers  climb  an  additional  three  students  leave,  joining  the  plant  life  are  changing  in  latitudes  get  more  direct
            have  waxed  and  waned  hours to reach the glacier,  more than 4 million people  the region, including in the  sunlight and radiation.
            numerous  times.  But  the  at  times  donning  helmets  who have fled Venezuela's  Andean ecosystem known  When a glacier melts away,
            rapid  pace  of  glacial  re-  and  holding  tight  to  ropes  political upheaval in recent  as  the  paramos  —  a  mist-  at  first  only  bedrock  is  left
            treat over the past century  to  maneuver  up  steep  years.                           covered  mountain  grass-    behind — sometimes rough
            and a half, accelerated by  boulders.  Some  of  the  sci-  "Every week, someone asks  land that lies between the  gravel    and    sometimes
            human  activities  and  the  entists  had  waterproofed  me why I haven't left," says  top of the tree line and the  smooth  rock,  worn  down
            burning  of  fossil  fuels,  cre-  their worn-out old boots us-  Alejandra  Melfo,  a  team  bottom of the glacier.  by centuries or millenniums
            ates a new urgency — and                                                                                            of grinding ice.
            opportunity — for scientists                                                                                        But  within  a  few  years  or
            to  understand  how  freshly                                                                                        decades,  bacteria  and  li-
            exposed  rock  forms  new                                                                                           chen  began  to  colonize
            soil  and  eventually  new                                                                                          the  area.  As  they  decom-
            ecosystems.                                                                                                         pose  the  minerals  of  the
            While  most  of  the  planet's                                                                                      rock and their bodies then
            ice  is  stored  in  the  polar                                                                                     decay into organic matter,
            regions, there are also gla-                                                                                        the first hints of soil begin to
            ciers  in  some  mountainous                                                                                        form.  And  soil  is  the  basis
            regions of the tropics — pri-                                                                                       of  a  new  ecosystem,  pro-
            marily in South America.                                                                                            viding a structure to retain
            "Practically  all  of  the  high-                                                                                   water and for plant roots to
            mountain  tropical  glaciers                                                                                        grow.
            are in the Andes. There's still                                                                                     "The  formation  of  soil  is
            a little bit on Mount Kiliman-                                                                                      the  difference  between
            jaro," says Robert Hofstede,                                                                                        an  ecosystem  being  able
            a  tropical  ecologist  in  Ec-                                                                                     to  form  quickly  and  be-
            uador  who  advises  inter-                                                                                         ing  stalled  for  hundreds  of
            national  agencies  such  as                                                                                        years," Llambí says.
            the World Bank and United                                                                                           On  the  rocks  left  behind
            Nations.                                                                                                            when  the  glacier  retreats,
            Monitoring     Venezuela's                                                                                          the  scientists  think  that  a
            Humboldt glacier depends     In this May 26, 2019 photo, scientists gather at their camp in the early morning before starting a  new ecosystem resembling
            on  continuous  visits,  Llam-  four-day mission to the Humboldt glacier, in Merida, Venezuela.                     the  paramos  may  eventu-
            bí  notes.  And  even  in  the                                                                     Associated Press  ally begin to develop.q
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