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A32    FEATURE
                       Tuesday 9 July 2019

            Prosecco’s bubble shows no sign of bursting



            By COLLEEN BARRY                                                                                                    playbook.
            Associated Press                                                                                                    They successfully lobbied to
            ASOLO, Italy (AP) — Prosec-                                                                                         have Prosecco as a brand
            co, the fruity sparkling wine                                                                                       with   protected     status
            made  in  the  northeastern                                                                                         switched  from  the  grape
            hills  of  Italy  is  gaining  in                                                                                   once  known  as  Prosecco,
            global  popularity  —  and                                                                                          and  now  Glera,  to  a  hilly
            producers of Champagne,                                                                                             territory  in  northeastern  It-
            for  so  long  the  dominant                                                                                        aly.  It  is  based  around the
            bubbly  wine,  are  taking                                                                                          city of Treviso and encom-
            note.                                                                                                               passes five provinces in the
            Prosecco has become the                                                                                             wider  Veneto  region  and
            best-selling  sparkling  wine                                                                                       four  in  neighboring  Friuli
            in  the  world  by  volume,                                                                                         Venezia  Giulia,  right  up  to
            and experts say it is eroding                                                                                       the  Slovenian  border.  That
            the market share of Cham-                                                                                           change,  made  in  2009,
            pagne,  the  French  wine                                                                                           has helped producers bet-
            that  is  synonymous  with                                                                                          ter control quality and fight
            celebration but also comes                                                                                          against counterfeiters.
            with a heftier price tag. The                                                                                       The most renowned of the
            Italian  wine’s  production   In this image taken on Monday, Oct. 15, 2018, wine grower Adelino Pizzobon checks a bunch of   three  consortiums,  Coneg-
            eclipsed     Champagne’s     grapes in a Prosecco vineyard at the Case Paolin farm, in Volpago del Montello, Italy.  liano Valdobbiadene, is try-
            five  years  ago  and  is  now                                                                     Associated Press  ing to get the territory rec-
            75  percent  higher  at  544  The  Italian  bubbly’s  suc-  chased  at  a  price  that  Germany’s   Sekt,   which  ognized  by  UNESCO  as  a
            million bottles.             cess is attributed to its low-  makes  it  easier  to  buy  as  experts  say  has  improved  world heritage site, a label
            Champagne still claims the  er price and its profile as an  an after-work drink or for a  in  quality.  “As  the  old  inn-  that  experience  in  other
            revenues  crown,  cashing  anytime libation, making it  casual  gathering,  without  keepers  used  to  say,  even  regions  shows  boosts  both
            in a record 4.9 billion euros  popular in Great Britain, the  pomp and circumstance.   the  fountain  outside  the  tourism  and  the  value  of
            ($5.6  billion)  last  year  on  United  States  and  Germa-  The  lower  price  is  in  part  bar  is  competition,”  said  the  product.  Champagne
            307 million bottles, 2.8 billion  ny,  markets  where  Cham-  made possible by a simpler  Armando Serena the head  received  its  UNESCO  sta-
            euros of that in exports. But  pagne has long flourished.  production  method.  It  has  of the Asolo Consortium of  tus in 2015. Prosecco mak-
            Prosecco’s  bubble  shows  Jowin  Lepper  Carberry,  two  processes  of  fermen-       Prosecco  makers.  “But  it  is  ers  are  betting  future  suc-
            no sign of bursting: exports  a  consultant  for  a  medi-  tation,  both  in  large  tanks,  certainly  not  a  phenom-  cess on higher quality, and
            this  year  are  trending  up  cal  devices  company  in  whereas     Champagne’s  enon  that  we  expected.  higher-priced vintages. The
            16 percent over last year’s  Baltimore,  Maryland,  tried  second  fermentation  pe-   It is cause for reflection for  best  Valdobbiadene  can
            804  million-euro  ($913  mil-  Prosecco  at  the  beach  riod is done while the wine  (Champagne  producers)  cost up to 30 euros ($34).
            lion)  high.  Adding  insult  to  four years ago, and liked it  is bottled. That requires stor-  perhaps.”          Sebastiano  Bonomo,  ex-
            injury,  sales  are  surging  40  so  much  she  started  mak-  ing  the  Champagne  bot-  Prosecco’s  growing  popu-  port manager at the Giusti
            percent  in  Champagne’s  ing frozen smoothies with it  tles at an angle and turning  larity,  and  the  proliferation  Dal Col winery near Treviso,
            home country, France, ac-    for friends at her pool. She  them  slightly  every  day  by  of sparkling wines in gener-  said  he  can  imagine  one
            cording  to  one  estimate.  moved on to making cock-     hand  to  help  the  fermen-  al fueled by younger drink-  day  high-end  restaurants
            And  those  figures  don’t  tails  for  dinner  parties  and  tation  —  expensive  man-  ers, is forcing Champagne  keeping a Prosecco list, like
            reflect the seasonal Christ-  has used Prosecco instead  ual  labor  when  done  over  makers to up their game.     they  do  for  Champagne,
            mas sales bump of 20 per-    of Champagne for the past  thousands of bottles.          “The  quality  of  Cham-     based  on  geographic  de-
            cent.                        four New Year’s Eves.        Prosecco  producers  them-   pagne  at  the  moment  nominations and zones.
            Michael  Edwards,  an  ex-   “My  initial  reason  for  try-  selves  are  taken  aback  has  never  been  higher  “That is the plan we should
            pert who has been a wine  ing  it  at  the  beach  is  be-  by  their  wine’s  success,  because  it  has  to  be.  The  go for, being able to bring
            judge for Decanter maga-     cause it was less expensive  and  mindful  not  to  squan-  danger is the competition,  knowledge  about  our  ter-
            zine  and  wrote  the  book  than  Champagne.  Now  I  der it. They are up against  so it has to be better,” said  ritory,  just  like  the  knowl-
            “The Finest Wines of Cham-   use it because I prefer it to  not  only  imitators,  but  also  Edwards.              edge off Champagne was
            pagne,”  says  consumers  Champagne,” she said.           other  sparkling  wines,  like  At the same time, the three  spread to the entire world,”
            are  increasingly  interested  With  an  average  produc-  Spain’s  Cava,  which  still  consortiums   that   make  Bonomo said.
            in sparkling wines.          tion  cost  of  3.70  euros  does  not  rival  Prosecco  in  Prosecco have taken some  Asolo is the smallest of the
            “Prosecco  capitalizes  on  ($4.20)  per  bottle,  a  frac-  terms  of  global  sales,  and  hints from the Champagne  three   consortia   making
            the  desire  to  drink  spar-  tion  of  Champagne’s  av-                                                           Prosecco,  but  it  has  ex-
            kling  wine,  not  necessarily  erage 10.24 euros ($11.63),                                                         panded  its  vineyards  by
            Champagne,” he says.         Prosecco  can  be  pur-                                                                86  percent  from  2011  to
                                                                                                                                2017. That has given much
                                                                                                                                needed economic stimulus
                                                                                                                                to a region that suffered a
                                                                                                                                blow with the failure of two
                                                                                                                                regional  banks  that  de-
                                                                                                                                voured billions in savings.
                                                                                                                                “We see many young peo-
                                                                                                                                ple  who  are  remaining  to
                                                                                                                                work  in  family  companies
                                                                                                                                ... because they have pros-
                                                                                                                                pects  of  a  good  life,”  Ser-
                                                                                                                                ena  said.  “Prosecco  has
            In  this  image  taken  on  Monday,  Oct.  15,  2018,  wine  grower   In  this  image  taken  on  Monday,  Oct.  15,  2018,  wine  grower
            Adelino  Pizzobon  inspects  a  Prosecco  vineyard  at  the  Case   Adelino Pizzobon opens a container of Prosecco wine, at the   a  fruitiness  and  a  perfume
            Paolin farm, in Volpago del Montello, Italy.              Case Paolin farm, in Volpago del Montello, Italy.         that  gives  hope  for  the
                                                     Associated Press                                          Associated Press  future.”q
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