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A32    FEATURE
                       Tuesday 21 May 2019
            Wired Icelanders seek to keep remote peninsula digital-free



            By EGILL BJARNASON                                                                                                  mantic  about  lying  on  the
            HORNSTRANDIR,      Iceland                                                                                          ground with a broken thigh
            (AP) — The passenger boat                                                                                           bone  and  no  cellphone
            arrives at the bottom of Vei-                                                                                       signal," Kristjansdottir said in
            dileysufjordur,  a  short  inlet                                                                                    an interview.
            with a long name, to drop                                                                                           In  a  written  response  to
            off backpackers for a multi-                                                                                        the   lawmaker,    Minister
            day  trek.  A  weather-beat-                                                                                        of  Transport  Sigurdur  Ingi
            en group that's completed                                                                                           Johannsson    noted   that
            the trip waits to board, ea-                                                                                        huts  along  the  hiking  trails
            ger to get back to a part of                                                                                        are  equipped  with  radio-
            Iceland where they can re-                                                                                          phones  for  emergencies.
            connect with the world via                                                                                          He defended the absence
            Wi-Fi.                                                                                                              of  digital  connectivity  in
            By  boat,  that  will  take                                                                                         Hornstrandir  as  a  factor  in
            about a half-hour. No roads                                                                                         "advancing  visitor's  experi-
            lead  to  the  Nordic  coun-                                                                                        ence."
            try's  northernmost  penin-                                                                                         Police  and  rescue  work-
            sula, a rugged glacial horn                                                                                         ers  have  suggested  creat-
            that reaches for the Arctic                                                                                         ing an illustrated map that
            Circle.  Making  a  phone                                                                                           marks  the  mountain  sum-
            call  requires  walking  up  a                                                                                      mits  with  the  strongest  sig-
            mountain  for  a  cell  signal                                                                                      nals.
            so  weak,  clouds  seem  ca-  In this photo taken on Aug. 8, 2018, a local ranger for the Environment Agency of Iceland attempts   The  Environment  Agency
            pable of blocking it.        to make a call from the unofficially named Telephone Mountain, in Vesteinn Runarsson, Iceland.  of  Iceland  estimates  that
            But  internet  service  soon                                                                       Associated Press  3,000  people  trek  through
            could  be  reaching  the                                                                                            Hornstrandir  every  sum-
            Hornstrandir  Nature  Re-    ers'  hands  and  push  Horn-  prohibitively expensive. Yet  mother  grew  up,  doesn't  mer, moving from one fjord
            serve, one of the last digital-  strandir  across  the  digital  in Iceland, the prospect of  have to look far down the  to  the  next.  Some  are  re-
            free frontiers in what might  divide.                     constant  connectivity  has  family  tree  to  see  the  ef-  warded  with  sightings  of
            be  the  world's  most-wired  Companies  such  as  Elon  called  up  an  old  debate  fect  of  digital  devices:  his  the  arctic  fox,  Iceland's
            nation.  The  possibility  has  Musk's  SpaceX  are  racing  on  whether  Hornstrandir's  teenage daughter refused  only  native  land  mammal.
            most  hikers,  park  rangers  to deliver high-speed inter-  wilderness  should  stay  un-  to come to Hornstrandir this  The few structures — aban-
            and summer residents wor-    net service to every inch of  wired.                      summer  because  it  would  doned  farm  houses  and  a
            ried  that  email,  news  and  the  world  by  putting  thou-  Despite  or  because  of  its  mean  not  having  online  decommissioned  U.S.  Air
            social media will destroy a  sands of small satellites into  remoteness,  Iceland  ranks  access.                   Force radar station — were
            way of life that depends on  low  Earth  orbit.  Their  suc-  first  on  a  U.N.  index  com-  "But once the kids are here,  abandoned decades ago.
            the absence of all three.    cess  would  have  global  paring  nations  by  infor-    all they do is play outside,"  When The Associated Press
            "We see a growing appre-     implications,  bringing  the  mation  technology  use,  Gudmundsson said.              visited in August, the travel-
            ciation  for  the  lack  of  on-  benefits  and  downsides  of  with roughly 98 percent of  Northwest  Iceland's  repre-  ers interviewed there unan-
            line  connection,"  Environ-  internet communication to  the  population  using  the  sentative  in  parliament  is  imously  favored  making
            ment  Agency  of  Iceland  places that are off the grid  internet.  Among  adults,  less  sentimental  about  the  the  reserve  a  digital-free
            ranger Vesteinn Runarsson,  because of poverty or war,  93  percent  report  having  value  of  isolation.  Since  zone,  though  their  notions
            who patrols the peninsula's  or where internet access is  Facebook  accounts  and  her  election  last  year,  Hal-  of what that meant varied.
            southern  end  on  his  own.  reserved for the wealthy.   two-thirds are Snapchat us-  la  Signy  Kristjansdottir  has  "If  phones  worked  here,
            "Looking  to  the  future,  we  That's also true for sparsely  ers,  according  to  pollster  urged the Ministry of Trans-  I  am  sure  many  people
            want  to  keep  Hornstrandir  populated    communities  MMR.                           port to fund cell towers for  would go as far as carrying
            special in that way."        and  far-flung  destinations  Many  people  who  live  in  the  safety  of  sailors  and  battery  packs  to  charge
            The  area  has  long  resisted  in  Canada,  Russia,  Alaska  northwestern  Iceland  or  travelers whose mobile de-  their  devices,"  said  Mikko
            cell  towers,  but  commer-  and  elsewhere  in  the  vast  visit  as  outdoor  enthusi-  vices  currently  are  useless  Ronkkonen,  a  hiker  from
            cial  initiatives  could  take  Arctic region, where broad-  asts   want   Hornstrandir's  in and near Hornstrandir.  Finland who had just com-
            the decision out of Iceland-  band  service  generally  is  570  square  kilometers  (220  "I  don't  see  anything  ro-  pleted an eight-day trip.q
                                                                      square  miles),  which  ac-
                                                                      counts  for  0.6  percent  of
                                                                      Iceland's  land  mass,  to  be
                                                                      declared  a  "digital-free
                                                                      zone."  The  idea  hasn't  co-
                                                                      alesced  into  a  petition  or
                                                                      formal campaign, so what
                                                                      it would require or prohibit
                                                                      hasn't been fleshed out.
                                                                      The last full-time resident of
                                                                      the  rugged  area  moved
                                                                      away  in  1952  —  it  never
                                                                      was an easy place to farm
                                                                      —  but  many  descendants
                                                                      have  turned  family  farm-

            In this Wednesday Aug. 8, 2018 photo, hikers and local sum-  steads  into  summer  get-
            mer residents prepare to board the Hornstrandir passenger ferry   aways.               In this Thursday Aug. 9, 2018 photo, hikers during an early morn-
            connecting the remote peninsula, only accessible by boat, to   Alexander  Gudmundsson,   ing  trek  on  the  southern  part  of  the  Hornstrandir  peninsula,  in
            Iceland's northwestern region.                            who vacations in the home    Iceland.
                                                     Associated Press  where   his   great-grand-                                           Associated Press
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