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A28    SCIENCE
                      Tuesday 9 May 2017


















                 Researchers seek better ways to farm popular Pacific fish


             PHUONG LE                                                                             son,  executive  director  of  chester  Research  Station,
              Associated Press                                                                     the  Fishing  Vessel  Own-   across  Puget  Sound  from
             PORT   ORCHARD,     Wash.                                                             ers’  Association,  a  Seattle-  Seattle. “The big problem is
             (AP)  —  The  dark  gray  fish                                                        based  group  that  repre-   allaying the fears of people
             prized  for  its  buttery  flavor                                                     sents  about  95  commer-    that  you  can  have  both.
             live deep in the ocean, so                                                            cial  fishermen  in  Alaska,  You can have both of those
             researchers  keep  their  lab                                                         Oregon,  Washington  and  things  working,  particularly
             cold  and  dark  to  simulate                                                         California.                  because  this  fish  is  such  a
             ideal  conditions  for  sable-                                                        In  2015,  fisherman  harvest-  high-value product.”
             fish larvae.                                                                          ed about 35 million pounds  In recent years, NOAA Fish-
             A  biologist  shines  his  dim                                                        (16 million kilograms) of sa-  eries scientists have worked
             red headlamp and uses an                                                              blefish worth $113 million in  to  reduce  potential  bar-
             ultrasound to scan the belly                                                          the United States, all along  riers  to  sablefish  aquacul-
             of  an  anesthetized  sable-                                                          the U.S. West Coast.         ture. They have developed
             fish about the length of his   In this photo taken March 28, 2017, Bill Fairgrieve, a fisheries re-  Of  that,  nearly  two-thirds,  techniques to produce all-
             forearm to tell if it’s female   search  biologist  with  the  National  Oceanic  and  Atmospheric   or about 23 million pounds  female  stocks  of  sablefish
             and has eggs to collect. He   Administration, holds a sablefish at a research facility in Man-  (10 million kilograms), were  that grow faster and much
             gently  squeezes  out  hun-  chester, Wash.                                           caught  in  Alaska,  with  bigger than males in about
             dreds  of  tiny,  translucent                                        Associated Press  smaller amounts in Oregon,  24  months.  Ideal  market
             eggs into a glass beaker.   aquaculture  as  a  solution  Fishermen  along  the  U.S.  Washington and California.  size  is  roughly  5  ½  pounds
             After  the  eggs  are  fertil-  to feed a growing demand  West Coast, mostly in Alas-  Nearly half of the sablefish  (2 ½ kilograms).
             ized externally, they’ll grow  worldwide for seafood.    ka, catch millions of pounds  caught in the United States  They’ve  also  studied  dif-
             in  large  indoor  tanks  and  People   are   consuming  of wild sablefish each year  is exported, with a majority  ferent  ways  to  reduce  the
             some in floating net pens in  more  fish  than  in  previous  but  no  commercial  sable-  going to Japan.         costs  of  feeding  juvenile
             Washington  state’s  Puget  decades,  with  average  fish  net-pen  farming  exists  “Our  fear  is  that  sci-    fish, increase larvae survival
             Sound  to  be  used  for  re-  worldwide per capita con-  in the U.S.                 ence  isn’t  going  to  stay  in  rates and decrease defor-
             search.                     sumption hitting 43 pounds  Sablefish,  also  known  as  the  U.S.,  and  it  will  be  ex-  mities.
             At  this  federal  marine  re-  (20  kilograms)  a  year,  ac-  black  cod  or  butterfish,  ported  to  a  Third  World  One research project is re-
             search  station  near  Seat-  cording  to  the  Food  and  are long-lived species that  country where people work  placing  more  expensive
             tle,  scientists  are  studying  Agriculture   Organization  is  native  to  the  northeast  for a few bucks a day,” Al-  algae with clay that is used
             sablefish  genetics  and  in-  of  the  United  Nations.  Fish  Pacific  Ocean  and  highly  verson said. “They’ll raise it  to  help  sablefish  larvae
             vestigating ways to make it  consumption  is  expected  valued in Asia for its benefi-  with  low-valued  labor  and  better  find  their  prey.  An-
             easier and more efficient to  to grow even more in com-  cial  nutrients  and  delicate  use  our  science  to  under-  other looked at finding the
             commercially grow the fish.  ing years.                  flavor.  The  fish  are  grilled,  cut our commercial fishery  optimal temperature to in-
             It  is  part  of  a  larger  effort  NOAA  says  aquaculture  smoked, poached, roasted  and coastal communities.”  crease larval growth.
             by  the  National  Oceanic  can relieve pressure on fish-  or served as sushi.        Alaska  law  prohibits  finfish  Wild  fish  are  caught  off
             and  Atmospheric  Admin-    ing  populations  and  pro-  Michael  Rubino,  who  di-   farming.                     the Washington coast and
             istration  to  support  marine  mote economic growth.    rects  the  NOAA  aquacul-   Rubino and others say wild  used  to  develop  captive
                                                                      ture  program,  noted  that  harvests  and  aquaculture  brood stocks, or mature fish
                                                                      practices for farming fish in  can  complement  each  that are used for breeding.
                                                                      the U.S. meet very strict en-  other,  particularly  during  At  the  facility,  the  fertil-
                                                                      vironmental regulations.     months  when  there  are  ized  eggs  grow  in  silos  in
                                                                      But some critics worry large-  lower  catch  limits  for  wild  dark,  cold  rooms  before
                                                                      scale  farms  could  harm  sablefish.                     being  moved  to  other  in-
                                                                      wild fish stocks and ocean  “You  always  have  this  yin-  door  tanks  where  they’re
                                                                      health, and some commer-     yang  problem  between  fed a steady diet of brined
                                                                      cial fishermen worry about  fisheries and aquaculture,”  shrimp and other food.
                                                                      potential competition.       Rick Goetz, who leads the  Large  circular  tanks  hold
                                                                      “This would be a big threat  marine fish and shellfish bi-  fish  in  different  growth
                                                                      for  us,”  said  Robert  Alver-  ology program at the Man-  stages.q
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