Page 160 - J. C. Turner "History and Science of Knots"

150 History and Science of Knots

and glaciers seems to have arisen a bit later. The early development of the
sports is described, with bibliographies, in the General References section of
my Bibliography below; no other citations are given in this paper for the
history of the sports, as distinct from the history of the knots.
The first records of the use of rope in caving date from 1535, and in
mountaineering from 1574; in both cases it seems that the ropes were used as
simple handlines. Rope ladders were first recorded as being used in caving in
1780; the rungs were also rope, making for difficult climbing, but from 1821
wooden rungs provided much easier use. Some form of winch may well have
been used earlier. All this refers to written records; it is very likely that the
unrecorded use of rope was much earlier and happened in many countries.
For a long time, interest in either mountaineering or caving was only spo-
radic. Few people climbed more than one high mountain or explored more than
one cave system, and often long periods elapsed before a second party climbed
that mountain or explored that cave. No one made climbing mountains or
exploring caves anything like a major part of life.

The Beginnings of the Sports
In the late 18th and early 19th centuries, the Romantic Movement changed
attitudes to natural scenery, and people began to explore and enjoy them-
selves in wild natural areas. Recreational mountaineering began in the Alps
of Europe. Horace-Benedict de Saussure of Geneva was probably the first
to proclaim that his sole aim in climbing a snow-covered mountain was to
reach the top; after unsuccessful attempts to climb Mont Blanc, the highest
mountain in Europe, he offered a prize in 1760 for the first ascent; it was
not claimed until 1786; the first ascent by a woman was in 1808. Thereafter
there was a growing interest, at first amongst the Swiss, French and Germans,
but later especially amongst the English. Guided climbing eventually spread
all over the world. Nearly all the early climbers, or `travellers' as they were
known, were `gentlemen'-a few were `ladies'; but they were by no means all
wealthy. Initially, the guides were local chamois hunters or smugglers, but
soon they became more or less full-time professionals, helping their `travellers'
in many ways, including carrying loads and performing the routine duties of
the journey. The first guides' organisation, the Syndicat des Guides de Cha-
monix, was formed in 1823, at first to conduct tourists and scientists over the
glaciers, where the guides were often familiar with the routes. Later they of-
ten led parties up the high mountains, where no-one had been before; but at
least the guides were skilled and strong. The formation of the Alpine Club in
England in 1857 marked the recognition of mountaineering as a sport. Other
European mountaineering clubs followed soon after; the Ladies' Alpine Club
was not formed till 1907. Early leaders of the sport were Edward Whymper,