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by: Andy Lynes Kricket:
An Indian-Inspired Cookbook
by Will Bowlby
What’s the USP? A collection of over 80 modern and classic Indian recipes from Kricket restaurant in Soho.
Who’s the author? This is
the debut book from young British chef and restaurateur Will Bowlby who trained with Rowley Leigh at the much missed Le Cafe Anglais before relocating to Mumbai for
two years to work as a head chef. He then travelled the subcontinent, learning about regional Indian cuisine. Kricket originally opened in a shipping container in Brixton in 2015 before relocating to Soho in
Goat
by James Whetlo
2017. Bowlby has been named national chef of the year by the Asian curry awards
What does it look like? Good enough to eat. Photographer Hugh Johnson has brought Bowlby’s simple, colourful and impactful food to life while restaurant interiors and kitchen action shots give an insight into what it’s like to dine at Kricket. Chapter headings are illustrated with line drawings by Myoung Chung and lend the book extra style and elegance.
Killer recipes? Just ip through at random and you’re bound to nd something you’ll want to
What’s the USP? Everything you wanted to know about the UK’s most undervalued and underused protein but were afraid to ask, plus 70 odd recipes covering just about anything and everything you could possibly do with a goat, gastro- nomically speaking of course. Who’s the author? James Whet- lor is a former River Cottage chef (Hugh Fearnely Whittingstall wrote the book’s foreword) the and now founder of Cabrito which supplies goat meat to ca- tering butchers and restaurants around the country.
What does it look like? With it’s ominous horned goat head cover, you might mistake this for a book of black magic spells (and if you read it backwards, it actually
is) but open it up and you nd something far more benign with images of Whetlor cuddling a goat, munching on a goat burger and preparing a hay barbecue.
cook, from a classic Old Delhi (butter) chicken to more modish creations like bone marrow and cep kulcha (mini naan bread) or chanterelles in malai (lightly spiced cashew nut and green mango) sauce with fresh peas and pea shoots.
What will I love? The sheer vari- ety and inventiveness of the reci- pes aside, there’s an informative introduction, suggested seasonal menu plans and a whole chapter of delicious sounding cocktails including smoked tarbooz made with vodka, whisky, watermelon juice and cinnamon syrup
What won’t I like? If you have
The food has been imaginatively and attractively styled and shot and the book has a fresh, bright and elegant look.
Killer recipes? Whetlor has gone out of his way to demonstrate the versatility of his beloved animals and the variety of dishes is im- pressive from kid shank, apricot and pistachio tagine to schnitzel and Greek-style orange and leek sausages. The author has roped in a number of high pro le chef friends to contribute their own recipes too, including Neil Rankin from Temper (goat tacos) and Hugh FH himself (kid, lentil and labneh salad).
What will I love? The extended 30 page introduction goes into depth on the subject of goats cov- ering their place in history, goats and modern farming, goat as served in restaurants, their use in the leather industry and the farm Africa charitable project that has
purist tendencies when it comes to Indian cooking, this is not the book you are looking for. Should I buy it? Pierre Koff- mann, who wrote the book’s foreword, loves Will Bowlby’s food so it’s a no-brainer.
£26, Hardie Grant
used goats to help rehabilitate local ecosystems in rural eastern Africa and which Cabrito give part of their pro ts to (including 50 per cent of the royalties from the book).
What won’t I like? Yes, its a sin- gle ingredient book so theoreti- cally might have limited appeal. Should I buy it? Currently, the male offspring of diary goats
are simply destroyed but could become a sustainable and ethical source of low fat, high protein meat. Buying this book and putting goat on your menu will help that become a reality. That’s a pretty good reason to pick up
a copy.
£20, Quadrille
Read more cookbook reviews by Andy Lynes at cookbookreview.blog
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THE COOKBOOK REVIEW