Page 21 - GFA – A Different Drumbeat
P. 21
GFA – A Different Drumbeat 21
level in the centre of a veritable wall of some of the most glorious mountain ranges
in the world.
Whereas villages and settlements exist along the border and in the
southern areas of Tibet, such settlements usually cluster around the centres of
Tibetan civilization - the lamaseries. Of these we shall have more to say later. The
Kokonor and Ts’ai Tan are essentially the home of the nomads among whom the
most feared are the Goloks (wild men), of whom our genial French Consul-General,
Mons. A. Guibaut, has written such interesting personal reminiscences. These are
the famed robbers of the plains of whom the French Fathers Hug and Gabet have
much to say in the interesting record of their journey from Peking to Lhasa, via the
Kokonor, in 1844/5. Once the traveller has left the last outpost of civilization on the
borders of these great plains, he is constantly on tension apprehensive of a
possible visit from these unwelcome marauders. But by no means are all the
nomads of the Kokonor Goloks. But so deep a spirit of distrust prevails that when
one party of travellers sees another approaching on the trail (roads do not exist)
they will immediately detour, as will the other party, so that either passes other at
the greatest possible distance.
But the plains are also peopled by shepherds and herdsmen,
tending the flocks of sheep and the herds of yak, horses and camels which graze
there during the short summer pasturing months. (In the days of which I speak this
was the main source of supply for the wool market of Tientsin). These simple
children of Nature usually live in black tents made from a fabric woven from yaks’
hair. Once assured as to the bona fides of a traveller they are most hospitable in
according food and shelter. But the first problem for the traveller lies in
approaching the encampment which is always guarded by a number of the large,
fierce, Tibetan dogs - as large as St. Bernards - who are trained to keep off
strangers. The only safe approach is on horseback, with a good long horse-stick
or, better still, a whirler, consisting of two lumps of metal at the ends of a piece of
rope which, when spun rapidly, provides a circle of safety. However, once friendly
contacts have been established the generous nature of these people is
demonstrated to the full by the hospitality afforded. When the visitor enters the
tent, the matron of the family holds out her hand for his tea-bowl, which every
Tibetan carries in the bosom fold of his long gown. If the lady is not quite assured
as to the cleanliness of the bowl, she will play safe by licking it round with her
tongue before filling it with a warm brew of brick tea into which she will drop a
lump of butter. In the better class families this is usually rancid due to the fact that
aged butter is considered much more of a delicacy than fresh, When about half
the tea has been drunk, the hostess puts a handful of parched barley flour into the
bowl which you then proceed to knead with your fingers into small balls with which
you take the keen edge off your appetite. This is the famous Tibetan "tamba” the
staple food of the masses and the most common form of provision carried by
travelers. If the visitor to the tent is to be accorded full honours a sheep is killed
level in the centre of a veritable wall of some of the most glorious mountain ranges
in the world.
Whereas villages and settlements exist along the border and in the
southern areas of Tibet, such settlements usually cluster around the centres of
Tibetan civilization - the lamaseries. Of these we shall have more to say later. The
Kokonor and Ts’ai Tan are essentially the home of the nomads among whom the
most feared are the Goloks (wild men), of whom our genial French Consul-General,
Mons. A. Guibaut, has written such interesting personal reminiscences. These are
the famed robbers of the plains of whom the French Fathers Hug and Gabet have
much to say in the interesting record of their journey from Peking to Lhasa, via the
Kokonor, in 1844/5. Once the traveller has left the last outpost of civilization on the
borders of these great plains, he is constantly on tension apprehensive of a
possible visit from these unwelcome marauders. But by no means are all the
nomads of the Kokonor Goloks. But so deep a spirit of distrust prevails that when
one party of travellers sees another approaching on the trail (roads do not exist)
they will immediately detour, as will the other party, so that either passes other at
the greatest possible distance.
But the plains are also peopled by shepherds and herdsmen,
tending the flocks of sheep and the herds of yak, horses and camels which graze
there during the short summer pasturing months. (In the days of which I speak this
was the main source of supply for the wool market of Tientsin). These simple
children of Nature usually live in black tents made from a fabric woven from yaks’
hair. Once assured as to the bona fides of a traveller they are most hospitable in
according food and shelter. But the first problem for the traveller lies in
approaching the encampment which is always guarded by a number of the large,
fierce, Tibetan dogs - as large as St. Bernards - who are trained to keep off
strangers. The only safe approach is on horseback, with a good long horse-stick
or, better still, a whirler, consisting of two lumps of metal at the ends of a piece of
rope which, when spun rapidly, provides a circle of safety. However, once friendly
contacts have been established the generous nature of these people is
demonstrated to the full by the hospitality afforded. When the visitor enters the
tent, the matron of the family holds out her hand for his tea-bowl, which every
Tibetan carries in the bosom fold of his long gown. If the lady is not quite assured
as to the cleanliness of the bowl, she will play safe by licking it round with her
tongue before filling it with a warm brew of brick tea into which she will drop a
lump of butter. In the better class families this is usually rancid due to the fact that
aged butter is considered much more of a delicacy than fresh, When about half
the tea has been drunk, the hostess puts a handful of parched barley flour into the
bowl which you then proceed to knead with your fingers into small balls with which
you take the keen edge off your appetite. This is the famous Tibetan "tamba” the
staple food of the masses and the most common form of provision carried by
travelers. If the visitor to the tent is to be accorded full honours a sheep is killed
