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1PH O ENIX WINE AN D FOOD SPECIALPaley Toasts New State Law With TastingContinued from Page 3vitkultuiTl practices, is very European.\Lent, a native of Germany, said be\niques%u201d such as using sm all oak barrels tomaintain a premium quality that be saysmost upstate wineries lack. More than Micehe rolled his eyes Heavenward when theconversation turned toward upstate winemakers. \Leon Paley watches as a bottle of redwine is poured for shoppers in his store tosample w hile they m ake their purchases.(Phoenix/Collins Photo).York State wine, which has a negative connotation,\and white vinifera varieties that makegenerally desirable and acceptable wines.%u201dWHY LONG ISLAND?And why Long Island? %u201cWe looked atvarious areas, and we saw that some peoplehad started on Long Island,%u201d Lenz said.%u201cWe felt that even if it wasn%u2019t a prominentarea, we could, by being there, have a goodimpact Mi the metropolitan area.%u201dBesides, it%u2019s home. Before he establishedhis winery, Lenz and his wife Patriciaowned and operated a restaurant in theHamptons, A Moveable Feast, and he citeshis experience as a restaurateur as havingedged him toward his current profession.%u201cThat%u2019s where we got our interest in wine,%u201dhe said. \restaurant, we thought it would be an interesting thing to do.%u201dIt has, according to Lenz, been not onlyinteresting, but profitable as well. Heworked for five years before he released hisfirst vintage in 1983, and he says sales of thefour varieties he produces %u2014 Gewurztraminer, Chardonnay, Merlot and a LenzReserve %u2014 have increased steadily to reach70,000 cases this year. \are the specialty wine shops in themetropolitan area, and we have a verytarge following m Manhattan,\HE'S HAPPY TO HELPLeon Paley, for his part, says be is happyto help Lenz establish inroads for his product in Brooklyn. Paley, who has been aBrooklyn vintner since 1960, has been carrying Lenz%u2019 wines almost from the start.%u201cWe%u2019ve been a supporter of Peter Lenz%u2019wines since we%u2019ve been in this shop, abouttwo-and-a-half or three years,%u201d Paley said.He recalled that Lenz cam e into his shopwith samples one day. \bought,%u201d he said. %u201cAs his vineyard hasmatured, plus the greater skill he%u2019sdeveloped in winemaking, we%u2019ve been stocking more and more.%u201dPaley speaks of Lenz%u2019 wines with genuineaffection; it's not only good business tocarry the wines, but it also pleases him toknow that fine wine is being made locally.%u201cI get enthusiastic with a quality product,%u201dPaley said. %u201cIt%u2019s nice for change to enjoy awine and be able to say, %u2018Gee, this is fromNew York.%u2019%u201dThe proof, on this day, held up well. Shoppers at Paley%u2019s store who meandered overto the table Lenz had set up walked awaypleased, and many walked out of the storeafter having purchased a bottle. The tastersranged from novices to one man, obviouslya connoisseur, who engaged Lenz in a conversation about a recent wine column inThe New York Times. Whatever their levelof discernment, though, all agreed that thewine was of foie quality, and Lenz attributes such acceptance to a willingnessamong wine drinkers to experiment morethan they have in the past. %u201cI think peopleare excited and willing to try somethingnew,%u201d he said. %u201cPeople are very adventuresome, and they go strictly for the product. Whereas they used to pretty muchstick to European wines, and periiaps occasionally go to a California wine, now theydon%u2019t stick to that. Good wine is good wine.%u201dPROOF IN THE TASTEAnd Paley, who moved his shop to ParkSlope after years in Brooklyn Heights, isjust as excited about this phenomenon asLenz. \wines,%u201d Paley said. \more our customers love it.%u201d To supportthis he took special care to point out thatdespite moving locations, many have remained with him. \transition of moving so exciting to me wasto see so many of our friends from theHeights moving to Park Slope,%u201d he said, %u201csoit was almost like coming home.%u201dAnd though \Island, he has an interest in Brooklyn asw ell. %u201cWe%u2019re delighted to be here,%u201d he said,\Brooklyn excited about a good, local wine.%u201d'tifai/e l Aye i %u25a0 ^* h $ i d a y S e a s o nILING WINES & LIQUORSFine Imported and Domestic Wines and Liquors117 Smith Street, Bklyn %u2022 MA 4-3810Proprietor: Abraham AgostoE A G L EP R O V ISIO N S6 28 5th A VE.BROOKLYN(718) 499-0026 (Cor. 1 8 th st.)Just Arrived!All The Trimmings For Your Holiday TableFresh Ground CoffeesOver 150 Beers From Around The WorldFull Selection Of Perugina ChocolatesI Fresh Ground COFFEE%u2014The Lowest Prices in Tbwn!Special O f H ie W eekI COLUMBIAN SUPREME| Rich Full Flavor, Mild TasteI ^ .%u201cperlb.%u25a0VISIT O U R W IN E B O U TIQ U E *D. Scotto WinesIm ported & D om esticFine Wines and LiquorsFREE LOCAL DELIVERY//C om e in and brow se in o u rCalifornia W ine Room \the LARGEST assortm ent o fb o u tiq u e w ines in the city!Come in to check out our several other unadvertised specialsBeringer '81 Cabernet Sauvignon (Knight's Valley)$7.99 750 m l.I IClos Du Bois. '85 Sauvignon Blanc 6.99 750 m l. m mBandiera Zinfandel '81 2.99 750 m l. ____Bandiera Wildflower Red/White 4.99 1.5 l . 'Great Case Prices on Whole or Assorted Wines Agv EA -vja. .* %u2022 . .*/ AjCV.y. %u2022 %u2018-Ky318 Court Street T R 5-5530November 20, 1986, THE PHOENIX, Section Two, Page 5