Page 18 - 2005 AMA Winter

16 ARMY MDÜMTAIHIIH )
Resting on the summit of the Lagginhorn
By Ian do
Getting a team of indi­ viduals together this summer for the second Everest training meet was a feat in itself. Coming from diverse Regiments all over the UK and converging on a camp site outside Saas Grund, with some arriving for the first week, some for the second and some for the full tour. Some travelling by air and train, some in personal cars, others in hire cars and minibuses. I was one of the “half-tour merchants” arriving on day one but disappearing at the end of the first week due to work commitments. I found this unusual in itself as I have never felt myself to be militarily indispensable, and have used this excuse to go climbing at every available opportunity over my military career.
Military precision was dispensed with as tents were erected in dog-leg lines, ranging from Mountain Hardwear to the obligatory issued Terra Novas. John Doyle and Woody were already established in ‘love shack’ wagons complete with all mod cons. They are obviously paid far too much.
I was limited to the Easyjet 20 kgs rule and looked like a tramp in comparison. Briefings were conducted on the format of the first week, weather, and how to claim for a water rebate I am still waiting!!!! Apparently it is easy to get (if you are going to Peru!!) The week would
involve some mandatory safety training, followed by an acclimatisation climb and then splitting into groups to conduct some more ascents around the Saas Fee area. The valley is surrounded by 4,000 metre peaks so targets were easy to plan for, but the one thing that could not be determined was what was going to happen with the weather. This was to be a major factor in limiting the week’s activities.
Day one began with a walk through the village of Saas Grund (a collection of postcard shops, supermar­ kets and pizza restaurants) to the Hohsaas Lift. This took us up past the kiddies play area with its collection of pot bellied pigs, llamas and other assorted hairy creatures (reminding me of several ex girlfriends, although not quite as ugly) and on to the Hohsaas Hut. A short walk took us to the Trift Glacier where we conducted crevasse rescue, belays and ascending rope techniques. We also had a play with some ice climbing tech­ niques, some more success­ fully than others as Toby landed in front of us in a pretty undignified Jordan-like pose with his feet wrapped around his ears (luckily he had his clothes on) after a brief free-fall from a serac.
Splitting into two groups for ascents of the Weissmies (4017 metres) and the
Everest Team