Page 19 - 2005 AMA Winter

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I Lagginhorn (4010 metres) for the next day we descended
to our huts - the Hohsaas and the Weissmies Huts respectively, which may be a bit confusing as most would assume that the Weissmies Hut would be the natural choice for the ascent of the Weissmies. This was to be the acclimatisation climb so was painful in varying degrees depending on how long you had previously been in the Alps (some had been in the area for 3 weeks beforehand, which I classify as officially cheating). The rest of us struggled to the summit, our group on the Lagginhorn, to be met with a spectacular vista with a layer of cloud thousands of feet below us. Descent was swift, with the alpha males amongst the group deciding to head down on skateboards with handlebars rather than the more sedate (and sensible) cable car. They were obviously missing their
Playstations and other collec­ tions of boy's toys!
After a rest day, our group headed to the Britannia Hut for an ascent of the Allalinhorn. The original plan had been to bag some summits whilst staying in a mixture of huts and bivvies but the poor weather curtailed this plan. We reached the Britannia Hut in thick mist and high winds to then spend the rest of the day listening to Woody. I decided to read the German
magazines instead, even though I can't understand a word, but it was a bit more exciting! The next day we completed an ascent of the Allalinhorn (4027 metres) via the Hohlaubgrat, which is graded at AD but only had a small section of difficulties near the top. This is an area of loose rock but can be ascended with the use of a fixed rope. Descending by the tourist route, which the local guidebook described as “beingsuitable for a 7 year old" rather reduced our egos, which were further eroded
the next day by a period of navigational uncertainty (officer speak). Basically this involved “being lost” (soldier speak) on the Hohlaub Glacier in the dark and mist. Having regained some sense of direction we headed for the
Rimpfischhorn for an attempt on the north ridge (AD+) but turned around on conducting a time appreciation and seeing high winds on the summit and poor weather approaching.
We returned to the valley and the comforts of the camp site before embarking on a night off in one of the local pizza restaurants before slipping away to the local disco where we met the cast from the Adams Family. Watching grown men remove their clothes whilst playing air guitar to DJ Otzi signalled to me
it was time to head back to those work commitments. I departed the next day.
Crevasse rescue training on the Trift Glacier
• Alpine Training
C
ARMY MOUNTAINEER 17~
100 metres below the summit of the Atlalinhorn with a carpet of cloud below