Page 32 - 2016 AMA Spring

Advanced Scottish scrambles
– 6 of the best routes
By James Roddie
The hills of the Scottish Highlands are some of the best in Europe on which to learn the skills required for high-end scrambling. Learning to move quickly but safely over steep and exposed ground can take time, and the Highlands contain endless scrambling routes suitable for learning to cope with many difficulties and types of terrain. Becoming proficient at scrambling is an essential step towards bigger things such as Alpine mountaineering. Reaching many of Europe’s higher summits involves long sections of scrambling which must be completed rapidly to leave enough time for more difficult climbing or glacier crossings.
The routes I have highlighted here present a varied set of outings, and in some cases the boundaries between scrambling and climbing are blurred. I have made few references to the use of a rope, as it is up to individual teams to judge how much rope-work, if any, is appropriate for their ability and the conditions found on the day.
Scrambling is potentially a dangerous activity, but it is also one of the most enjoyable ways to experience the hills, with
a feeling of uninhibited freedom that is hard to find elsewhere.
The Traverse of Suilven – Grade 3 – Assynt
Assynt, Inverpollaidh and Coigach form a world-class mountainscape - a jigsaw of abrupt peaks and sparkling lochs that helped form humanity’s understand- ing of geological time. Suilven forms the centrepiece of this peerless area. This, the full traverse of Britain’s most unlikely- looking hill, is one of the great ridge scrambles of the Highlands. It has not gained the fearsome reputation of An Teallach or Liathach, yet it is a similarly serious undertaking - with stiff exposure and hard scrambling in a remote location.
Suilven Traverse
The route – Head east from Bealach Mor first. A path ascends in the direction of Meall Meadhonach before a notch is met in the ridge with an optional Grade 3 wall on the other side. A section of broad, level ridge comes next and an impressive view opens up towards the main ascent of Meall Meadhonach. Descend steeply towards another notch and follow a track up through boulders on the other side. The track now ends at a steep band of rock which cannot be avoided, and you must be comfortable with down-climbing this on the return trip. Climb up towards a block resting on a ledge, and then traverse left to an awkward move up right. Above this, move right to a hollow ‘tower’ and climb up steeply just to the right of this to reach easy ground. The broad, flat summit leads to another deep notch. Trend left up loose
30 ARMY MOUNTAINEER
Coire Lagan
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